What finish to use on Teak Rubbing strip

[asj1]

I had the teak rubbing strip replaced as part of a major refitting two years ago the coating I used then didn't work well - I can't remember which one , a very watery one which had to be repeated every two months or so.

I have now spent a good few hours rubbing it all down to good clean wood and was intending to put a two part ISO varnish on which I used on the floors of the boat. Anyway when i opened it unfortunately one of the components had gone solid, I expect damp had got in.

So what do I do now? I can use some "Goldspar" varnish I already have ( I note this is a polyurathane varnish) or go to the chandlers or B+Q tomorrow. I want it to be reasonably hard wearing; I don't mind doing another coat each year but I don't want to do another coat each month!

I have used a coating on a hardwood window frame at home which was like a varnish but seemed to soak in more, would this sort of stuff be good idea- on the window frame I bang another coat on every 18 months or so when i have 30 minutes to spare.

Any help appreciated.

 

[whisper]

What's wrong with leaving it au naturel? Once you start putting something on it it will require recoating/sanding/removing at regular intervals - all unnecessary extra work. You can always tart it up by "varnishing" when/if you're thinking of selling her.

 

[Hermit]

I rub the teak down with a wire 'scrubber' and then wipe on a teak oil.

 

[Lakesailor]

I use Danish oil and every couple of months a 10 minute wipe with an oily rag restores it wonderfully.

(I'm talking about the rubbing strake of course)

 

[Bajansailor]

I gave up long ago on varnishing any outside wood - on the boat or at home. The timber doors on my deck at home are just painted with Ceetol occasionally, similarly the rubbing strake and handrails on the boat. Comes up wonderfully, even if the wood looks rather manky before hand. Ideal for bodgers in the tropics!

 

[PBooth]

I will second the use of Danish oil, quick and easy to apply and it has a drier finish then teak oil.

Peter

 

[johnalison]

I will agree with the rest; natural is best unless you want a "varnish" look. If you leave it, treat it with something like Polycell 3:1 mould killer and it will stay bright through the season. There used to be stuff called International Swedish Wood Oil which looked like varnish when dry. I imagine the "danish" is similar.

 

[Lakesailor]

My danish oil soka in straight away and is touch dry in about 10 minutes.

Looks like this (not bad for 30 year old wood)

 

[Blue5]

We have the same problem with a rubbing strip, it has been previously coated and now looks awful. I will replace it in time but after a lot of research and looking at other boats I will leave it natural. By there very nature they get marked and scratched and the natural look seems to be favoured by the majority of the manufacturers which must say something.

 

[colvic987]

Don't bother with any varnish, although it will look nice initially, it will become a peeling and unkempt looking piece of wood within 3 months, and you will have to spend more time sanding it down..

just initially sand it down and apply teak oil, and then a maintenance coat every couple of months, i would rather apply a quick wipe of oil every couple of times then the hours of sanding i had to undertake it get rid of the unsightly mess i had created...

 

[asj1]

Thanks to all who responded. I have now put varnish on one side (needs at least two more coats) and Starbright Tropical Teak Oil and sealer on the other side - we will see which fares better. The Teak Oil was odd stuff - not much like oil at all. !!

Regards

 

[castaway]

My Halberdier has very nice shapely capping/toe rails, but although I do varnish my wheelhouse, I can't be bothered to varnish the 'rails'.

What I have been doing for the last few years is giving them a quick going over yearly with a random orbital sander, then a quick going over with 1st a coat of Aussi Endevour Primer then a few days later the Endevour finish coat.

2 big plus 's are that on a 36ft boat it only takes 1/2 hour to freshen up with the sander then about the same to shuffle around on my knees with a saturated cloth to apply the stuff.... and 2nd that as it contains eucalyptus (sp) it keeps the sinuses nice and clear after inhaling any teak dust.

Finally I sometimes give the side of the boat that happens to be alongside a quick wipe over along the rail to brighten it up and this takes about 5 mins.

Regards Nick

 

[LadyInBed]

Ah! A real old salt - reads depth in Feet.
Are your Charts monochrome and in Fathoms and Feet /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[PeterGibbs]

Give up - varnishing deck teak is a game for those who do not really want to put to sea. It will blacken (the rotting wood beneath the surface) and flake off, whatever you do, because water will ingress at the margins.
Let it turn silver - ie oxidise. Lightely brush it across the grain (most important) twice a year, no more, to keep algae from setting up home.

There are stains on the market you can use instead of varnish, and these perform better but still perish as the season advances - sunlight is such a rotter!

PWG

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]
I had the teak rubbing strip replaced as part of a major refitting two years ago the coating I used then didn't work well - I can't remember which one , a very watery one which had to be repeated every two months or so.

I have now spent a good few hours rubbing it all down to good clean wood and was intending to put a two part ISO varnish on which I used on the floors of the boat. Anyway when i opened it unfortunately one of the components had gone solid, I expect damp had got in.

So what do I do now? I can use some "Goldspar" varnish I already have ( I note this is a polyurathane varnish) or go to the chandlers or B+Q tomorrow. I want it to be reasonably hard wearing; I don't mind doing another coat each year but I don't want to do another coat each month!

I have used a coating on a hardwood window frame at home which was like a varnish but seemed to soak in more, would this sort of stuff be good idea- on the window frame I bang another coat on every 18 months or so when i have 30 minutes to spare.

Any help appreciated.

[/ QUOTE ]

Micro-porous stain ... such as B&Q's ... Ronseal .....Sadolin etc. It soaks in and doesn't peel / go like Varnish. Later a quick light sanding and a recoat brings it up nice. The trick is enough to soak in but not enough to form a surface skin.

Out here we have a product called Pinotex ... a watery stain similar to Sadolin .... goes on a treat - just doing mine in fact ... dries matt and gives a rich full colour to the wood. I have to admit - I have a pet hatred of natural teak left to grey and weather ...

 

[Lakesailor]

Tried metres, but a quick glance and less than 2 showing made my heart beat too quickly.
I'm a feet and inches man at heart. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]
Ah! A real old salt - reads depth in Feet.
Are your Charts monochrome and in Fathoms and Feet /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Once you've done a few turns of the lake ... surely no need for any depth instruments ?? Not as if any tide ????? Feet or metres .. depth is same unless drought of course !!

/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Drascomber]

Microporous products tend to last but spoil the appearance.

Teak Oil tends to blacken.

John Watkinson (Drascombe designer) said that the best thing to put on teak is salt water!

But if you want a nice appearance try Deks Olje - not No 1 on its own as that doesn't seem to last a full season but No1 followed by No 2. Had this on my transom for 3 yrs now and its still like new - the full treatment is a lot of coats though.

 

[Lakesailor]

[ QUOTE ]


Once you've done a few turns of the lake ... surely no need for any depth instruments ??

[/ QUOTE ] Strangely the depths vary enormously. Some shore lines are but a few feet and other are over 60 feet. The middle of the lake can be 200 feet or in some places 12 feet. The worst of it is that (and depth sounders are no good in these cases) there can be bloody great rocks in odd places so that 5 feet under the keel suddenly translates as "graunch".

Frankly I've always found holding my breath works best. Luckily it's only been in other people's boats that I've damaged the rocks.

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]
Microporous products tend to last but spoil the appearance.

Teak Oil tends to blacken.

John Watkinson (Drascombe designer) said that the best thing to put on teak is salt water!

But if you want a nice appearance try Deks Olje - not No 1 on its own as that doesn't seem to last a full season but No1 followed by No 2. Had this on my transom for 3 yrs now and its still like new - the full treatment is a lot of coats though.

[/ QUOTE ]

Salt water is correct for the harder teaks .... I didn't know till talking to a Timber Dealers ... that there are teaks now available that are nowhere near as hardy or good as the older traditional. I always assumed that there was only one or two teak varieties ... no there are quite a few according to him. Similar with mahogany's ... and each has it's own characteristics.

Traditional Teak is in fact as I'm told and observed safe with salt-water ... but fresh water actually destroys it over time. (can't remember the "science" he quoted .... long while ago now ... but that's what he was getting at...)

I also agree that microprous can be not the most attractive - but that is usually when people have applied it to "cover" as in paint. The trick is to use enough to soak in ... but not so much to create a paint skin ... If you only use enough to saok in and protect / bind the wood fibres / grain etc. - it then has a proper wood surface look with matt stained appearance.

Many years ago .. first house I bought - I took pride in returning an old georgian hardwood door to former glory (somebody years ago had done the '50's' job on it by hardboard panels etc.). So I stripped of the panels back to its inlaid previous form etc.
Spent ages sanding and preparing. Then gave it 3 thin coats of Micropore ... bring up the grain and look. Refitted door and 5 yrs later when we sold house literally every veiwer remarked on the beautiful door etc.
Mike next door did same except he insisted on more coats ... ended up looking like a door with dull thick paint on .. UGH ! He couldn't understand why the difference ...

Little is better with MP finish ...

I'll see if I can get some photos of the strakes I'm doing at moment on my boat ...