wHAT ANTIFOULING DOES WORK THEN?

bob26

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Many people have complained on this site - usally in passing - that their antifouling is ineffective.

Given the price of these substances its not surprising. Gold leaf might be cheaper.

But is anyone impressed by the performance of theirs?

And can anyone recommend anything reasonably priced and suitable for a bilge keeler on half-tide mooring?

Work on the boat means she will be going in late and currently has no antifouling at all so my choice is open..

In the past - by the way - I have found that launching in spring with last year's antifouling and then scrubbing off in June - after barnacles are said to have seeded - and applying antifouling then means she remains cleaner throughout the season. And its warmer scrubbing and painting in June than March!!

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oldsaltoz

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G'day Bob26,

All antifouls work, it's just that some do a better job than others under certain conditions.

You first thing you need to establish is what type of antifoul you want, self cleaning (easier to remove later) or a hard finish; then establish if the antifoul you plan to apply will handle the operating environment; will you dry out at low tide, some antifouling suffers when it dries, are the waters warm or cold, some work better in warm water, others don't, high salinity or mixed as in a river entrance.

The one thing to look for is on the can (Or should be) is the percentage of active ingredients, cheap antifoul can be the good stuff thinned, this will have a lower % of active ingredients.

Bottom line, go for the stuff with the highest % of active ingredients for the lowest price.

Hope this helps. . . . . .




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Pete_k

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I have used Blakes tiger cruising for a good many years now and have yet to have a barnacle on the hull at the end of the season, usually have a slight trace of slime starting to form mostly towards the waterline. I did try one of the international brands on our little power cat one year but it was next to useless by comparison and grew a good crop of weed whereas our yacht didn't and both are in the same harbour.

We are moored in a salt water harbour not an estaury so this may have a bit to do with its performance.


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chippie

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I have heard that some fishermen ( not known for their green attitude ) add an eggcupful of 245-T to every four litres of antifoul.This heavy duty weedkiller is reputed to solve the problem for 30 metres around their boat. I of course wouldnt advocate such measures but it makes you wonder.

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Birdseye

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Once met a retired Swedish gynaecologist who used to add tetracylene (?) to his bottom paint because the govt there would not allow normal antifouls. Certainly seemed effective, and had the satisfactory aspect that the Swedish govt paid for it!

So maybe a deal with your local pharmacist to use up all those returned antibiotics?

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hlb

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We had a local dentist that added antibiotics. Suppose he got them cheap. Might be worth asking the doctor for a big perscription!!

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oldharry

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The simple answer is - all of them! But the different types work better in different places. There is (seems to be) no hard and fast rule in this. Even the paint manufacturers find their tests produce differeing results according to where they are.

The simple way to find out what works in your area is to hang around at haul out time, look for the cleanest boats, and find out what they used.

For example, In Chi Harbour, Blakes bootopping seems to be entirely effective, while Internationals product seems to actually attract grass and weed! International on the other hand worked 100% on my old mooriings near Portmadoc in N Wales, while Blakes was considered a waste of money.

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andrewbarker

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I think you'll find that 245T - a stunningly good herbicide - was banned some years ago by our chums in Brussels. Used to kill big nettles stone dead & also destroy tree stumps!

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