Westerly Konsort fuel tank replacement - thoughts and recommendations?

[andyo]

Mornin' all,

We have a 1980 Konsort, based in Bradwell Marina and over last weekend discovered a slow drip from the diesel fuel tank. Looks like it is coming from a seam at the front of the steel tank, underneath what I think is the main outlet for the engine. Doesn't look like a leak from the outlet or the shut-off valve. I suspect the tank is the original - it has what looks like grey Hammermite paint on the outside and I think a fair bit of rust and debris inside - as I can feel it when I dip the fuel.

So we have decided to bite the bullet and get it replaced, and I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts and recommendations.

I've looked on the WOA site and will also post this note there.

From reading, I think we have the choice of plastic or stainless steel. I think I favour plastic for its potential to be trouble-free (!) and maybe a bit less costly.

Also, it appears that the tank should be removable via the cockpit locker. We have a calorifier between the tank and the engine, so I suspect that will have to be removed first.

Has anyone recent experience with this task and could offer advice?

We have used Barney at Bradwell for major engine work and are happy to approach him again, but does anyone have any recommendations for engineers who can or have done this type of work?

Any thoughts welcome, thanks.

Andy

 

[Concerto]

This has been asked before.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?388725-Fuel-Tank-for-a-Westerly-Konsort

http://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/woaforum/viewtopic.php?t=3439
http://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/woaforum/viewtopic.php?t=3031

All these questions are by the same owner, so may be worth sending a PM.

 

[Champagne Murphy]

I just replaced the tank in our Sadler 32 with SS. Trouble free really, just some minor cursing when removing and fitting. Derek at Pin Mill copied it from the old one which I removed. He did it in a week from look see to ready. I fitted a gauge from Tek Tanks with no electrical connections http://tektankslimited.com/vertical-spiral-contents-gauge-399-c.asp Also a few very minor mods in size. He tested it using pressure and all has been well a month on.
Cheaper than plastic I think, Tek Tanks would want to make a pattern if they don't have one all ready. They tell you on the website if they do have one.
Incidentally, ours wasn't leaking but did have a plastic sight gauge with no tap at the base. At the insurance survey I was warned that if it broke and the tank emptied into the bilge the pump would send it all into the river resulting in a huge fine for environmental pollution

 

[sailorman]

I just replaced the tank in our Sadler 32 with SS. Trouble free really, just some minor cursing when removing and fitting. Derek at Pin Mill copied it from the old one which I removed. He did it in a week from look see to ready. I fitted a gauge from Tek Tanks with no electrical connections http://tektankslimited.com/vertical-spiral-contents-gauge-399-c.asp Also a few very minor mods in size. He tested it using pressure and all has been well a month on.
Cheaper than plastic I think, Tek Tanks would want to make a pattern if they don't have one all ready. They tell you on the website if they do have one.
Incidentally, ours wasn't leaking but did have a plastic sight gauge with no tap at the base. At the insurance survey I was warned that if it broke and the tank emptied into the bilge the pump would send it all into the river resulting in a huge fine for environmental pollution

A large slick on the Orwell at about 18.00 on Sunday

 

[Champagne Murphy]

A large slick on the Orwell at about 18.00 on Sunday

Ho-ho

 

[MoodySabre]

We have used Barney at Bradwell for major engine work and are happy to approach him again, but does anyone have any recommendations for engineers who can or have done this type of work?

Any thoughts welcome, thanks.

Andy

Barney put a new engine in my friends boat - no problem. I had a hole in the sump a few years ago and the engine had to come out. I used John Rook at Althorne Marine who are now based in Bradwell. He or his son Steve would be able to do it OK.

Roger

 

[paul-essex]

I change mine it is a simple brick shape tank my one was damp on the bottom and when I lifted it out and away from the ply it sat on the bottom was nearly gone I fiited a plastic one and feed it in near gearbox then slid it backwards

 

[PetiteFleur]

I replaced my steel fuel tank with a ready made plastic tank from Plastimo, others are available from TekTanks, Osculatus ? or Vetus. MUCH cheaper than the made to measure from TekTanks, assuming the tank will fit your space. I also fitted non-electric fuel guage. I fitted a 91 litre tank which was much smaller than the original but can still get 24hrs motoring. And gained space.

 

[benw]

We had a leaking fuel tank on Orcana, it decided to empty its contents rapidly into the bilge as we arrived in Dieppe. Not sure if it was the lumpy crossing of the Thames Estuary two day before or simply our time was up. Getting on with a replacement is way better than dealing with the aftermath of a tank failure. We consulted with Mega Offshore in Dieppe and TekTanks. A great service was offered by TekTanks who had the Sima 38 tank dimensions having previously manufactured for this purpose. However despite an offer of a week turnover and personal delivery via the ferry we opted for a remake of our old tankk. Lionel at Mega Offshore turned it around in 24 hrs including working through a Sunday. He reassured me of the process he would use ie argon welding.
4 yrs on seems ok.
However in case this makes a difference to you I have heard that fuel additives such as Marine 16 preventer if applied too liberally can eat away at the welded seams. We have had to deal with bug infestastions in the past and so use such additives with caution. A plastic tank in this regard i believe does not suffer such issues.
When we head off for distant shores I will have ours replaced with plastic but need a few more years out of the 900 Eur it cost for the whole job inc removal, pressure test and refit.
Ben

 

[andyo]

Many thanks to all for your thoughts. I've looked at various tank suppliers on the web and the plain Venus ones seem reasonable in terms of price - the TekTanks Konsort one is pretty expensive, but I wonder how one secures an generic tank if it doesn't have brackets, also it will need all the inlets and outlets cut and fitted ...

 

[benw]

The tank will require tangs which can be glassed in - as is the case with ours or I imagine some way of bolting it in. The TekTanks option provided the tank spec from a previous order which could have been different to our set up - I guess this is the risky bit we were not happy to proceed with without having someone look at it for us.

 

[Tranona]

The standard rotationally moulded tanks usually have built in strap recesses to hold them down. I fitted a Vetus one with ratchet straps to fittings screwed onto the ply base.

Have also fitted Tek Tanks and the big advantage of this type of tank is that you can have attachment lugs fitted where you want them as well as all the other fittings located in the right places. That can also be done with fabricated metal tanks. Custom tanks are obviously superior, but the price for this is quite significantly more than a standard regular shape one.

 

[PeterWright]

Hi.

Tek Tanks is the Rolls Royce option here, but it will, as others have pointed out be quite pricey. Stainless will probably be cheaper if you find a good welder, but cheaper still would be mild steel, which some argue is a more appropriate choice (I forget the technical explanation for that). How long has the original lasted? Are you interested in the fate of the new tank the same number of years from now? If you can get the old tank out and take it to a fabricator, he can make you an exact copy with fixing lugs and connections, for a reasonable price and you know it will fit. Just needs finishing with a tough, durable paint.

Peter