Weird Eberspacher problem

Actionmat

Actionmat

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Hi,
I thought I'd repaired my D2, but the same fault had occurred so many times it locked me out.

So I replaced the rheostat with an 801 controller with diagnostics in the hope that it would unlock it and give me a code if there was still a problem...

To start with, some of the wire colours didn't match up with the new controller, but I'm pretty sure I've connected them in the right order.
I haven't connected the grey wire(temp sensor on the controller). The installation instructions tell me to connect it to the grey wire in the White diagnostics block, there isn't a grey wire in my loom, that block is red, brown, yellow. Any ideas which one it should be connected to?

I hadn't previously realised that the anti clockwise setting in the old rheostat was for air circulation only(it has never started the fan in that position)

So I connected the new 801 controller and tried the heat setting. It was a similar problem as before, it ran for 5 or 10 mins, then shut down(but this time with no smoke)

I then tried the fan only setting and to my surprise, the pump clicked and it ran in full blast heat. I left it going for an hour before turning it off.

I presume I've got my wires crossed somewhere?

Can anyone point me in the right direction and also tell me where the temp for the controller is meant to go?

I've printed off everything from pfjones and the varnish co., it's useful information but I've hit a dead end with this one. I'm not getting any fault codes either.
Thanks in advance
 
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No replies!! I will make a start but cant help much. I am not familiar with the 801 timer and have not got its wiring instructions.
I don't understand why you say you were 'locked out' and now it seems you are not.
I was not sure if the 801 can reset following lockout. ( I see it has diagnostics but that is not quite the same.)
The grey wire need not be connected at all. If it is then the thermostat in the 801 will control the heat output. If not then the thermostat actually in the heater will control the output.
You need to consider the following leads from your heater they should all go to the 801.

small red and small brown=the positive and negative power leads to the timer.
blue/white=the diagnostic lead
red/slate= the positive lead that is used for the temperature setting
brown/white= the negative side of the above
yellow= the 'trigger' lead when connected ( via the timer) to the small red this sends the 'start up' signal to the ECU.

If I could be sure that those leads where present on your heater and could see the wiring diagram for your 801 then I could possibly help.

Good luck
 
Thanks very much for getting back to me.

What's confusing me is the rheostat wires are a different colour to the wires on the 801 controller .

On the rheostat that I took off, they were numbered as:

6 - Purple
5 - Red
4 - (empty)
3 - Brown
2 - Red/Grey
1 - Brown/White.

The new 801 controller has the following coloured wires, which are:

Red
Yellow
Brown/White
Grey/Red
Grey
Blue/White

If I could find out which numbers on the rheostat referred to what cable, I'd be less confused
 
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Your purple lead to terminal 6 should be yellow! Purple is often seen there on ex bt and other vans which had a one hour timer in the wiring. If you trace that purple back you should find it goes to yellow from the heater.
The other wires to the rheostat are as I have described and fulfil the functions I described.
The 801 has similar wires but with the addition of the blue/white lead which gives diagnosis.
Your 801 appears not to have a separate (brown) negative return lead but I know that some timers do, just use the brown/white lead as the return lead.
So in your situation I would connect the purple lead to the timer yellow and all the others to their respective twins on the timer.
Hope you get it sorted
 
Thanks very much:encouragement:

Any idea where the blue/white wire goes? There wasn't one going to the rheostat, so should I be running a new cable off the block(assuming there's a corresponding wire there). I'm assuming there was no diagnostics blue/white as(unlike the digital controller)the rheostat doesn't have that function?
 
Actionmat said:
Thanks very much:encouragement:

Any idea where the blue/white wire goes? There wasn't one going to the rheostat, so should I be running a new cable off the block(assuming there's a corresponding wire there). I'm assuming there was no diagnostics blue/white as(unlike the digital controller)the rheostat doesn't have that function?
Click to expand...

I also replaced my rheostat with an 901 controller and had to install a new blue/white wire to get the diagnostics working. Agree with everything Peter has said but I might suggest double checking all the wires through to the Ebby plug to make sure all colours match up as required.

BTW I found the 801 to be a much better controller than the old rheostat.
 
Good advice on following the wires back to the ECU. I did just that, checked and rechecked the connections and switched on the new 801 controller. It fired up, ran beautifully and then shut down:(. Fault code 52.
Tried again, did the same thing but this time fault code 62.
While I was at it, I tried the air circulate only function. It stated up exactly as the heat function does, pump clicking + hot air, then it shut itself down and went through the cooling phase.

I'm stumped now. Does this sound like an ECU fault? It's the older type. I'm loathed to throw lots of money at it, but I want a working system so don't see that I have much of a choice.
 
Actionmat said:
Good advice on following the wires back to the ECU. I did just that, checked and rechecked the connections and switched on the new 801 controller. It fired up, ran beautifully and then shut down:(. Fault code 52.
Tried again, did the same thing but this time fault code 62.
While I was at it, I tried the air circulate only function. It stated up exactly as the heat function does, pump clicking + hot air, then it shut itself down and went through the cooling phase.

I'm stumped now. Does this sound like an ECU fault? It's the older type. I'm loathed to throw lots of money at it, but I want a working system so don't see that I have much of a choice.
Click to expand...

Good news! Fault Code #52 is the flame sensor which is not too pricey or difficult to replace.

But hold on: Fault Code #62 is an electrical reading outside the control range - i.e an open circuit. So before doing anything else you need to check the solder or whatever in all of your lead connections.

It is possible that when you clear #62, #52 will just spontaneously disappear.

Edit: when you have opened the electrics box on the heater to expose the ECU, you could stick a multimeter on the flame sensor leads and I'd imagine you are looking for a reading of something like 1100 ohms at room temperature.
 
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I have a sinking feeling that I'm now looking at a new ECU, as there isn't much left to replace.
So far I've serviced it, plus new fuel pump and heat sensor, but it still conks out.
I've checked and rechecked all connections and renewed the pipe and hoses. Clean as a whistle, no blockages etc.
This is what happens:

00:00 starts, no smoke, fan speed gradually increases, pumping as should
00:04 pump stops, fan stops within a few seconds, followed by black smoke
00:04 after a delay of around 10 seconds, fan starts again, cool down phase
00:07 starts up again, ignites, no smoke but pulsing 'woof, woof, woof' sound from exhaust. Pulsing sound three times then normal exhaust note.
00:10 fan at max speed, pump stops seconds later. Fan slows down.
00:14 fan stops completely.
Fault codes displayed: 54 and 62

Am I missing something or does this sound like a faulty ECU?
 
If you have done all above + verified that all sensors have the correct value + done fuel delivery quantity measurements then it does sound very much like an ECU issue. The Woof Woof pulsing can be an indicator of low fuel delivery but also happens sometimes with a warm heater and an non damped pump most of which are, non damped that is.
 
After 10 years of similar frustrations with my Eberspacher I have just ordered a PLANAR 4kw. I am told it consumes more power and is noisier, but is more agricultural and thus more reliable. And at only £350 new not much more than an ebespacher service. So I recon it is worth a gamble. If it is any help, a fix I found to sometimes work with the eberspatcher was disconecting and shorting out red and yellow which apparently resets the ECU.
 
Thanks David. Yes to the above apart from testing the old sensor, which looked heat damaged to my eye compared to the new one.
image.jpg
So it looks like a new ECU:(. Will a new ECU make my old D2 work in ventilation only mode? Also, is there any difference in the way the block is wired or is it 'plug and play'?
 
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