claymore
Well-Known Member
Claymore's propshaft appears to have worn itself away by about 1mm where the cutless bearing is attached. Has anyone else experienced this?
Wear on Prop Shaft
- Thread starter claymore
- Start date
omega2
Well-Known Member
are you able to get end play? then the gearbox coupling must be worn, if you have side to side or up down then the cutless is worn.
blackbeard
Well-Known Member
Yes, have seen some wear after about 10 years and 1500 engine hours, but not as much as 1 mm.
NickRobinson
Well-Known Member
Yes- my Macwester had a SS 3/4" shaft which turned out to be running in a Stewart Turner cutless bearing/housing.
The wear was big enough to be easily visible. It wasn't possible to reverse it as it only had a taper on one end.
Fortunately my son was able to take it to work and get it SS spray welded then turned to original.
It was still perfect (with new cutless of course) hundreds of miles motoring when I sold the boat.
No idea what a commercial job would have cost, possibly cheaper to buy new?
Nick
wully1
Well-Known Member
Yes, Mah wee boatie got a new prop shaft and cutlass bearing last winter cos the shaft was worn. Speak tae Boab and he'll order ye a new wann- and ye'll nae feint at the price.
Jcorstorphine
Well-Known Member
Are you sure its the shaft and not just the cutlass bearing has worn. Easy enough task to remove the cutlass being if you can pull out the shaft. Looking at the pic of your boat on the web, it looks as if the rudder is scalloped away such that if put hard over, the shaft can be withdrawn. A standard Rubber cutless beaing is about £40 for a 1" shaft (ish)
If it is the shaft which is worn you can get it plasma sprayed up and ground back but if that is not possible you could get the rear step turned down to the same diameter as the worn area and get a "made to measure" Tufnol type solid bearing machined by ................. Forgotten his name but he posts on the web site
Found the guy. http://www.ybw.com/forums/member.php?9917-Neil_Y
If you wish, I will have a look at your bearing when I am down at the weekend.
PS. West of Scotland have metal spraying and are used to working with marine equipment.
http://www.wose.co.uk/index.php?page=services
PPS, love your boat.
Last edited:
wully1
Well-Known Member
Best bring yer oilies, it's gonnae be minging weather...
Is that treatment expensive? A new shaft will be around £80-100. Cutlass bearing around £40. Even His self could fit them...
Edit: I apologise for iffer suggesting actual manual labour to his self.
Ian_Edwards
Well-Known Member
Yes, I has a prop shaft wear by at least a 1mm. I put it down to a 1/2 tide mud berth and over greasing the stuffing box so that the grease got as far as the cutlass bearing. The grease then trapped the mud into an effective grinding paste! I replaced the stuffing box with a PSS seal and fitted an new shaft, which cured the problem.
This was on my first boat with a real engine and I was over enthusiastic with the grease.
I think that small crustacean can get trapped in the cutlass bearing and then get ground up when motoring, giving much the same grinding paste effect as mud, especially if there is some grease around to hold the abrasive in place.
This was on my first boat with a real engine and I was over enthusiastic with the grease.
I think that small crustacean can get trapped in the cutlass bearing and then get ground up when motoring, giving much the same grinding paste effect as mud, especially if there is some grease around to hold the abrasive in place.
claymore
Well-Known Member
Thanks to all for your responses - food for thought and a few alternative strategies. Glad I posted!
Jcorstorphine
Well-Known Member
If you need to pull the cutless bearing out, I have a home made puller which I used to change the bearing on my old Westerly Pentland. I have dug it out of my box of useful bits but at the moment, I cant recall how it all worked (last used about 18 years ago) so may need to have another look in the box of bits in case I am missing a bit.
ParaHandy
Well-Known Member
A few years ago when the prop was changed, I poked a straightened coat hanger up the flutes and it did run smoother thereafter. You did have to remember to open the inboard side of the seal to get rid of the muck.
claymore
Well-Known Member
The Seven Men of Ardfern have managed to get it out without drawing the shaft, which would have entailed removing the rudder, which would have entailed lifting the boat, so I feel I have got off relatively well. I am minded at this stage to see how a new bearing would do rather than start building up the shaft although clearly either that or a replacement would seem on the cards for a future winter.
Oh the joys!
Jcorstorphine
Well-Known Member
Hi Claymore,
I was down at Largs today but did not get sufficiently wet while checking my boat on the pontoons so to make the experience totally enjoyable I went and had a look at your bearing.
I can see a small area of about 5 mm between the prop and the bearing housing which is bright but if you run your nail towards the very small step just before the prop, the wear is very slight.
It gives the impression however that the shaft is moving back and forward about 5 mm (unless of course you have loosened the engine coupling) If you have not loosened the coupling then perhaps your engine mounts are allowing the engine and hence the shaft to move back and forward when in Rev or Fwd drive.
To be honest, I did not think there was very much lateral play between the actual shaft and the bearing. I should have taken down my Vernier Callipers but when I left home I was thinking only a fool would be going down to Largs today.
claymore
Well-Known Member
Ahh
That claymore is not Claymore's Claymore, Claymore
Claymore's Claymore Claymore is in Ardfern.
All other Claymores, of which there are several, are imposters
That claymore is not Claymore's Claymore, Claymore
Claymore's Claymore Claymore is in Ardfern.
All other Claymores, of which there are several, are imposters
Jcorstorphine
Well-Known Member
Got the wrong Claymore
If that Claymore is not Claymore's Claymore, Claymore, then whose Claymore, Claymore is it?
If that Claymore is not Claymore's Claymore, Claymore, then whose Claymore, Claymore is it?
Last edited:
claymore
Well-Known Member
If that Claymore is not Claymore's Claymore, Claymore, then whose Claymore, Claymore is it?
Some ruddy imposter but as long as he votes NO I will leave him alone.....
Neil_Y
Well-Known Member
Not that unusual on rubber bearings (I assume yours is traditional rubber) Composites have shown less wear on some work boats that suffered rapid wear.
claymore
Well-Known Member
It is traditional rubber - are composites available for the leisure market or are they more heavy duty industrial?
Billjratt
Well-Known Member
If that Claymore is not Claymore's Claymore, Claymore, then whose Claymore, Claymore is it?
It's Gordon's. and it's for sale in Largs I think.
As per a previous private communication with the '(OP) Claymore' in question, and pertinant to the Captain Peter's coathanger post, these devices rely on a copious flow of water through the rubber grooves and Claymore forgot to mention the gungy sealant...
claymore
Well-Known Member
I just chose not to mention it, my memory is fine. At the moment.