Waterproof joint for for 12v cable up mast

Peter

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Got to connect new spreader lights to supply, the joint will be outside, under spreader. Just looking for the best ways of making a water proof joint. Can not rewire lights as sealed lights with a short tail (ebay).
Was going to crimp, or solder if I can get a soldering iron up mast safety, although have a gas one and then use a couple of heat shink sleeves to cover joint. Will it work and be waterproof? Or any other ideas

Thanks
 
You can 'pot' them - crimp. Get two halves of a bit of plastic tube - pack with silcone, press halves together and tape up. Sort of similar to how underground mains electric is potted - but they use 'potting compound' - and proper small potting boxes !
Or a small Maplins box - crimp or choc connector - same thing. Fill silicone - close and tape up ?
Tube is smaller and neater.
 
+1

And inspect both ends for a continuous smooth bead of adhesive exuded from under the edge all the way round.

Pete

The above is correct, but for belt and braces sealing I have shrunk two layers of adhesive heat shrink over a joint, doing one first, then sliding a longer piece over the first one and shrinking it. Probably not necessary, but it was in the bilge where it could get wet.
 
Self amalgamating tape is wonderful stuff.

But only adheres to itself.

I use it but always doubtful if its making a watertight seal onto the cable insulation

I think in the case in point Id' sleeve the joints in adhesive shrink wrap and then wrap the whole lot in self amalgamating tape.
 
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I fitted some supposedly waterproof connectors several years ago but over the last couple of years my tricocolour has gradually dimmed and now doesn't work at all. Another ascent of the mast will have to be made :(
 
I'd solder, and then cover the joints with adhesive filled heat shrink, as others have suggested. For belt and braces, I'd then cover the two joints with a larger piece of adhesive filled heat shrink. I used this method to connect up a NASA Supernover tricolour 5 yrs ago, and it was still working fine when the boat was sold last year. I had the advantage that the mast was down when it was fitted, so the soldering was done at ground level.
 
Adhesive lined heat shrink works great I used to use it on joints that had to work underwater at 1000ft with no problems. Nibs on soldered joints have to be avoided as they can puncture the heat shrink. Having said that I have not had problems with properly fitted quality waterproof connectors on boats.
 
Gel filled connectors seem all the rage now most are to IP68 and some can be submerged to 50m loads to look at try Screwfix or trade electrical outlets

I have not tried them yet but I need to connect bilge pump and they seem a simple and safe solution.
 
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