water tanks and toilets on a sealine

thamesS23

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we have just taken ownership of our first boat - a sealine S23 (2003). Although we were shown lots of things on the handover, a month down the line and I have a question regarding the toilet and water tank.
The water tank gauge is permently showing as empty, but if you press the black button next to it, it jumps up to full. I wasn't sure if the tank was nearly empty (as water is coming out of the taps ok) so started to fill up the water, and during this I noticed some water coming out of one of the disharge outlets nearby (excuse my terminolgy), so I assumed then that perhaps the water tank was full after all, and thats why some water started to discharge out the of the outlet at the side of the boat - Is this correct?

also with regards to the toilet flushing, not sure on make of toilet, so assuming that they are standard across the range on sealines. Next to the manual pump / flusher, there is a switch. one side shows from memory a red warning sign with a picture of water moving round toilet bowl, the other with a picture of an empty bowl. Which side should this lever be on (it was on the red side when we took ownership of the boat)?
The reason I ask, is because no matter which side it is on, I cant really get the toilet to flush, well not properly anyway. Should water be pouring from the top of the bowl, like a conventional toilet, or do boat toilets flush differently?
 
I can answer your first question regarding fresh water tank. When you press the black button it then indicates the water level. There should be another little knob that you can use to calibrate the level, in other words what I do is fill to overflowing then calibrate to show that I'm three quarters full that way I never run out of water.
 
I can answer the water tank but not waste question

The little needle should be used to calibrate the tank. Fill it up. Press the black button, it should go to 4/4. If it doesnt there is a little thumb wheel or should be next to the black button. turn that so tanks reads as full 4/4
 
The water coming out of the outlet when filling up is perfectly normal too... is the breather to let air out/in as the tank fills/empties and will discharge water when the tank is full..... so thats one more bit of info to cross off your list /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
The toilet... firstly put the switch to red, and pump for about 10 to 20 strokes.... trhis should fill the bowl.... then flick the lever the other way, and pump again for 10 to 20 strokes to empty the bowl.... the symbol is red one side, as if the switch is left in this position with the seacocks open, then it is theoretically possible for the toilet to back flood (although v unlikely in a power boat)....
 
" the symbol is red one side, as if the switch is left in this position with the seacocks open, then it is theoretically possible for the toilet to back flood (although v unlikely in a power boat).... "

okay, again many thanks - so should the lever always be left on the NON red side then?

secondly, and I knew I would have to ask this question at some stage as I always hear this being mentioned - What is a seacock? and how does it affect me on my boat on the thames?
 
It doesn't matter too much which way the lever is left, if the seacock is shut....

A seacock is a 'tap' that closes the outlet to sea of a pipe either drawing water in, or out... they usually look something like this....

ECS_5421_L.JPG

if the handle is inline with the pipe its open, and at right angles its shut...

There will be one of these on both the inlet and outlet pipes to your toilet... and if there isn't get them fitted pronto!!!!
 
No... its just that one of them (the outlet one) will be a bit further down the line, ie the otherside of the holding tank... but should still be there..... this one will probably remain shut most of the time, and only be opened when either discharging or pumping out..... the other of the two will be closer to the heads, and is the seacock for the inlet..

In fact, the plumbing for holding tanks can be a little complex with Y valves etc etc.... worth getting someone who knows what they are looking for to take a look at some point, and explain it all to you!
 
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It doesn't matter too much which way the lever is left, if the seacock is shut....

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Not true! Always leave it pointing to the 'flush' side rather than the 'empty' side otherwise the little rubber flap valve inside will get deformed and stop the thing from flushing properly. If yours doesn't flush properly, it's probably because it's been left over that way too long. They're only a few quid and will get you started on that most enjoyable of boating hobbies: bog fixing.
 
With the seacock shut, maybe.

I was told that leaving it set to "flush" with the seacock open could risk flooding when underway /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

dv.
 
Hi Inlandnewbie,

Used to have an S23 so I can shed some light on the issue of seacocks. In the mid-cabin you will find two velcro'ed panels against the back bulkhead. As you look at them looking towards the stern of the boat there is one on your left and one on your right. Each contains a seacock. The one on the left is the outlet valve from the holding tank. The one on the right is the seawater inlet to the toilet.

So, If the one one the right is closed you will get no water flushing into the toilet and if the one on the left is closed the macerator pump will make a funny noise when you try and pump out the holding tank.

I used to close both when leaving the boat and open both when arriving. If you use the deck suck out (as will probably be the only option on inland waterways) you should keep the outlet one closed.

But as others have said, good idea to open and close both every so oftern to stop them seizing up.

Cheers

Andrew
 
Also I'll let you know because it took me ages to find it!!! In the mid-cabin you will find two velcro'ed panels against the back bulkhead. As you look at them looking towards the stern of the boat the one on your left has the main fuse box :-).

Did you get the sealine manual as I may have en electronic copy (but for an S23 - and I believe the only difference is that you have cup holders!!) if you need it - drop me a pm with your e-mail address.
 
As mentioned above the switch has to be in the right position and the sea cock needs to be open for flushing. However evry year this forum is full of questions about loos that dont work after winter layup and it seems (at least with some makes) that they do not like inactivity. If you live near your boat then it is prob worth a few pumps during the winter now and then. However if your boat is in a situation where freezing is possible (eg out of the water) then this may not be an option for you.
It sounds as if your boat has a 'discharge overboard' option in which case you will have a 'Y' switch which allows to to discharge to tank or discharge overboard.
Overboard is what you do at sea .. you cant do it on the Thames of course.
There is a futher option in that some set ups we be:
dischage to tank or discharge overboard .
others could be discharge always to tank but with an option which allows you to empty the contents of the tank overboard.
For obvious reasons the overboard outlet is below water level (and will have its own seacock). As suggested it may help you to have someone explain it to you.
As you learn the ins and outs of your boat you might like to think about writing some notes and taking a few photos .. then by this time next year you will a comprehensive Owners Manual.
 
No, the joker valve is the big one at the outlet from the pump into the discharge pipe. Never had one of those go wrong, though they can sometimes struggle to close properly if overloaded (overshare, sorry). The one that fails is the little rectangular one at the top of the pump with the two flap valves with brass weights on them. Always leave it in the 'flush' position, not the 'empty' position when you're away from the boat, but as has been said before, keep the seacocks closed. We dodn't have to worry about that bit cos we flush from an onboard freshwater tank (no horrid smells) and to a holding tank.

Anyway, regular opening and closing of seacocks is a damn good idea.
 
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We dodn't have to worry about that bit cos we flush from an onboard freshwater tank (no horrid smells) and to a holding tank.

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It's the only way.

It took a year to get rid of the 'stinky tank' whiff in my boat. It is now odour free - even when the holding tank is full - and the only change I made was to flush with fresh water. (Thanks go to the 'headmistress' - Peggy Hall).
 
Does anyone think I could expand my septic tank pumping business to include regularly visiting marinas and pumping out toilet tanks on the boats that contain heads? I,m in N. Fla. I appreciate your opinion. Thanks, Logan
 
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