Water pump on Yanmar 2gm20 seized?

[crown22]

photo attached.it doesn't seem to want to turn.any advice of options re dismantle or replace would be much appreciated.regards stephen

 

[crown22]

can't seem to upload picture will keep trying thanks

 

[crown22]

have just seen the price of a replacement ouch

 

[BobnLesley]

I'm assuming that you mean a 20F engine? Other than the shaft, all the bearings and seals can be had 'off the shelf' from any halfway decent bearing factors for probably about £15-20; stripping and rebuilding one takes about an hour, add another half hour if it's particularly grungy.

 

[BobnLesley]

These are the bearing/seal details for a 3GM 30F European engine, I'm 99% sure that the 2GM 20F uses the same pump:

Bigger (pulley end) bearing – S62012RS

Smaller (impeller side) Bearing – S60012RS

Impeller Chamber Seal – SEAL2-VITON 12-24-7 R23. This is a double lipped seal, rather than the single-lipped seal fitted as original by Yanmar; I’ve found it more effective at stopping water ingress on old shafts as it ‘seals’ against a different/unworn section of the shaft and two of them to boot

O-Ring -11 x 2.4mm – 24N0116 - I think it's called a ‘slinger ring’ and can theoretically go anywhere? I don’t know, I’ve always found it located immediately behind the seal.

The bearings listed are all stainless steel, so should survive better if/when they get any salt-water into them; I think the Yanmar ones have destruction built-in so they can sell you new ones.

The original seal is not made of ‘Viton’ but a good friend/Engineer advised that this type of seal costs only a few pence more and is better able to survive an overheat should the impeller fail.

 

[BobnLesley]

Here's a couple of photos of one in pieces

 

[IanCC]

These are the bearing/seal details for a 3GM 30F European engine, I'm 99% sure that the 2GM 20F uses the same pump:

Bigger (pulley end) bearing – S62012RS

Smaller (impeller side) Bearing – S60012RS

Impeller Chamber Seal – SEAL2-VITON 12-24-7 R23. This is a double lipped seal, rather than the single-lipped seal fitted as original by Yanmar; I’ve found it more effective at stopping water ingress on old shafts as it ‘seals’ against a different/unworn section of the shaft and two of them to boot

O-Ring -11 x 2.4mm – 24N0116 - I think it's called a ‘slinger ring’ and can theoretically go anywhere? I don’t know, I’ve always found it located immediately behind the seal.

The bearings listed are all stainless steel, so should survive better if/when they get any salt-water into them; I think the Yanmar ones have destruction built-in so they can sell you new ones.

The original seal is not made of ‘Viton’ but a good friend/Engineer advised that this type of seal costs only a few pence more and is better able to survive an overheat should the impeller fail.

Could you tell me what the numbers you give refer to? Are they generic numbers that any bearing shop would understand?

Do these pumps suddenly fail or do they give you some warning?

Thanks for your time.

 

[BobnLesley]

Bearing numbers are generic, the shop will understand them; best to take the old ones with you though, so they can check sizes.

Seals usually start leaking first - dripping from pump - the salt water then knackers the bearings.

 

[zulloboy]

Make sure you clean up the shaft where the seal lip contacts it, otherwise it will be leaking again much quicker than you'd want. I cleaned mine up with progressively finer emery paper, finishing it off with 1200# 8 years/500 hours of running ago and it's still good. Takes a bit of elbow grease, but that's what boats are for.

Cheers, Graeme

 

[PetiteFleur]

I rebuilt my water pump a few years ago when it started leaking - we were just about to start our summer cruise, so bought a new pump and sorted the original one when we returned. Now on the boat as a spare. Beta Marine prices are very reasonable compared with other makes...

 

[ghostlymoron]

I got replacement bearings and seals from our local BML branch so that I could take the pump in and get the correct sizes. Make sure that you specify SS springs on the seals.
There is a telltale hole in the pump body that gives warning that the water side seal is leaking.