Water in rudder, thoughts anyone.

IanCC

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Thoughts anyone? Circa a gallon poured out. Very thick fibreglass, no stainless in there anywhere. How to determine where water is coming in at? Compressed air perhaps?

Thanks for any input.
 

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From my research, amateur, and not statistically relevant, it appears that most water ingress comes from the shaft to GRP interface, if there is no obvious damage.

You could try compressed air, but the fact that the rudder is full of water means that you have a potential problem. Lots of You Tube videos on repairing this and some have good ideas for improving the seal at the shaft. There will be some form of steel webbing I would have thought to hold the GRP to the shaft, hence corrosion may have happened, as well as failure of any foam infill.

I found these two videos informative if you want to repair.


 
From my research, amateur, and not statistically relevant, it appears that most water ingress comes from the shaft to GRP interface, if there is no obvious damage.

You could try compressed air, but the fact that the rudder is full of water means that you have a potential problem. Lots of You Tube videos on repairing this and some have good ideas for improving the seal at the shaft. There will be some form of steel webbing I would have thought to hold the GRP to the shaft, hence corrosion may have happened, as well as failure of any foam infill.

I found these two videos informative if you want to repair.


No shaft. It's all fibreglass.
 
Our Bendytoy 40 cc rudder is all gf including rudder shaft.

We had it in two pieces after it was cut away during recovery from an unplanned beaching!

No signs of any damage to shaft or water penetration in a 25 year old design.

Most rudders are not constructed from gf materials only and seem to suffer corrosion of dissimilar construction materials especially stainless steel in an enclosed cavity.

Is water penetration in an all gf rudder a problem?

It would be for a typical build with a combination of metal and gf.

Water in rudders is common for many boats just ask a surveyor!
Some boats have deliberately incorporated drains in their build Eg Amel

Personally I would keep the drain hole open when the boat is on the hard and plug it before next launch.

A hammer will detect any weakness in the underlying hard and solid gf structure. A good inspection of the joint between shaft and rudder sections would be advised.

My rudder has been rebuilt without the need of a welder!
 
If you have no rudder shaft, then I would check where the leak is by using an air line and soapy water. The leak will show as bubbles. This is how my water tank was tested after a rusty weld was repaired.

The water should do no harm in the blade unless it freezes, the expansion of the ice could split the blade apart.
 
If you have no rudder shaft, then I would check where the leak is by using an air line and soapy water. The leak will show as bubbles. This is how my water tank was tested after a rusty weld was repaired.

The water should do no harm in the blade unless it freezes, the expansion of the ice could split the blade apart.
Good thinking. 👍
 
Does that mean the only likely source of water ingress could be the bottom pintle fittings (assuming no huge cracks in the rudder GRP skin)?
That i don't know. I can't see any cracks when rudder off. Yet water doesn't run out of bottom of rudder and i imagine rudder heel to be very solid make up. Tasted salty.
 
From my research, amateur, and not statistically relevant, it appears that most water ingress comes from the shaft to GRP interface, if there is no obvious damage.

You could try compressed air, but the fact that the rudder is full of water means that you have a potential problem. Lots of You Tube videos on repairing this and some have good ideas for improving the seal at the shaft. There will be some form of steel webbing I would have thought to hold the GRP to the shaft, hence corrosion may have happened, as well as failure of any foam infill.

I found these two videos informative if you want to repair.


Quite interesting and a few ideas to remember when I do fibreglassing. One thing I did notice was that a lot of sanding, grinding and cutting was done without use of a vacuum cleaner so there would have been a lot of dust blowing around.
 
You have drilled a hole, so fit a tapered adaptor for a dinghy pump inflation outlet into the hole, then pressurise up and use soapy water, or gas system leak detection fluid to test for leaks in the obvious places: pintal and gudgeon screw holes, heal pivot, leading and trailing edges.

if you don't find a leak, scratch head. Your choices are do nothing, which to me, without any metal inside, would be my choice. That then raises the question, should you even bother to look for a leak. Just drain off and reseal later before launch.
 
DSCF5065.JPG

Rudder of my 38 ... after removing old Antifouling ... it would appear that rudder may have suffered water in past and they drilled plenty of holes to dry it out ?? But only one side ...

DSCF5064.JPG

Photos are 2023 - 2024 Winter lift.

When we lifted 24-25 ... we did not see any water evidence ... but this lift (25-26 Winter lift) - we noted a small hole in rudder bottom and after standing - a damp patch .. but not water dripping or running out.
 
Mine's a similar idea, and seems to be made of two halves glued together - possibly with a foam or balsa core (water leaked out slowly over days). Lots of wall thickness and even if it split completely the pintel fittings would hold it together, so I chose to "monitor" (ie do nothing)
 
On my ferro boat I has a GRP rudder with a stainless steel shaft and lower pintal

water would seep in via the GRP that was a little hydroscopic or vis the shaft GRP joint

My steel boat has a steel fabricated rudder with a stainless steel shaft and the steel covering welded on. I then pressure tested the rudder internal structure and then filled the rudder with old engine oil no issues since

Even though I painted the GRP rubber with epoxy tar it still absorbed some water the steel rudder as I said filled with old engine oil finally painting with epoxy tar no issues with water in rudder

I do now question is GRP the best material for manufacturing of boat rudders especially when you can also get rudders being chomped by dolphins and the corrosion inside due to water ingress corrosion due to water

I built an auxalizary rudder for my self steering gear from stainless that works
 
None have actually failed due to being wet though, it's just something surveyors say to justify their fee.
I have seen discussions on the forum and experiences it myself about water in rudders causing corrossion in the stainless tangs of a GRP rudder and if it's not very obtain why is there some issues and it cannot be just surveyors justify their fee
 
Yes, I agree that many people, on the word of their surveyor, have split their rudder and found some surface rust on the stainless before rebuilding the rudder which gets wet immediately. Most of them made YouTube videos to document their folly.

Next you'll be telling me that osmosis is a serious problem :eek:
 
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