Warning to Volvo Penta Owners: Oil Change

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20 Jun 2007
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Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
www.bavariayacht.info
I don't know if this applies to all Volvo Penta engines, but I just discovered that the oil suck-out pipe does not reach the bottom of the sump on my MD22. Last time I changed the oil I noticed that the oil on the dipstick was not clean. This year I bought a 1m length of PVC tubing to fit inside the suck-out pipe. I emptied the oil as normal, then pushed the smaller tube in until it stopped, I got out at least another 500ml.

Next time I'm going to try a more rigid tube, and a more permanent join to my pump. An 8mm drill bit fits quite loosely in the pipe.

Some of you may already know this, but I thought it was worth a mention as the VP manual does not.
 
I don't know if this applies to all Volvo Penta engines, but I just discovered that the oil suck-out pipe does not reach the bottom of the sump on my MD22. Last time I changed the oil I noticed that the oil on the dipstick was not clean. This year I bought a 1m length of PVC tubing to fit inside the suck-out pipe. I emptied the oil as normal, then pushed the smaller tube in until it stopped, I got out at least another 500ml.

Next time I'm going to try a more rigid tube, and a more permanent join to my pump. An 8mm drill bit fits quite loosely in the pipe.

Some of you may already know this, but I thought it was worth a mention as the VP manual does not.
Interesting that, I use the same suck out on the front of the engine and the year before last when i came to change the oil at the end of the season it was reasonably clean and it was see thru at the beginning of the season. I changed mine a couple of months or so ago and used it to move the boat after she was damaged. I will check to see if it is still clean tomoz
Stu
 
I do my MD22 oil change a day or two before the end of my sailing season, so that the oil lying in the engine over the winter, is fresh. By the end of the season, when needing changed, the oil is pretty black. After changing it, and the filter, and after running the engine, the oil doesn't look contaminated at all, which doesn't suggest that as much as 500ml is left in mine. However, I have no way of verifying how much remains, and you may well be correct, but it would seem a strange design feature. Is it maybe something to do with the rake of your engine?
 
My TAMD60C allegedly hold 20 litres, but I have never managed to pull more than 16 out. However, running for say 100 hours is only using a fraction of the available oil life span, so leaving 4 litres behind simply gets diluted into the new oil. More important IMHO is to change after a good run when the muck is well stirred up, so most of it will come out with the change.

I do use a stiff tube with a vacuum pump out device similar to a pella.

Anyone have any tips on how to drain the oil in the gallery sitting above the oil filters. The worse job for me is the removal of the first filter, especially on my stbd engine where access is a bitch. As soon as it is loosened the excess oil dribbles all down the filter, meaning that as soon as it comes off the thread it slips from your grasp and even with a catch jug (no room for a drip tray) it will tip over dumping about 1/2 a litre straight into the bilge.

Oh yes and how to stop the end of the sucky tube flicking as it leave the dip stick tube, leaving a lovely line of black dots in its path right across the beige carpet and if your really lucky it will even find its way onto the curtains and the odd cushion !
 
Anyone have any tips on how to drain the oil in the gallery sitting above the oil filters. The worse job for me is the removal of the first filter, especially on my stbd engine where access is a bitch. As soon as it is loosened the excess oil dribbles all down the filter, meaning that as soon as it comes off the thread it slips from your grasp and even with a catch jug (no room for a drip tray) it will tip over dumping about 1/2 a litre straight into the bilge.

Have you tried a plastic bag around the filter spread out at the top. You are luck having a vertical filter. We MD2---series owners have to put up with a horizontal filter,try stopping that from leaking!!!!.
 
Have you tried a plastic bag around the filter spread out at the top. You are luck having a vertical filter. We MD2---series owners have to put up with a horizontal filter,try stopping that from leaking!!!!.

No, but I like the simplicity of the idea, so if I use a rubble sack from B & Q or better two, 1 inside the other, I can just let them drop in. Problem with being an engineer is you sometimes overlook the bleeding obvious. Thanks.

For your horizontal filter I have an answer for that one - simply stab the filter with a hefty screw driver thru the side area being turned downward, undo 1/4 turn and let it drain out into a jug ( or two rubble sacks !) before the seal looses its contact.
 
For your horizontal filter I have an answer for that one - simply stab the filter with a hefty screw driver thru the side area being turned downward, undo 1/4 turn and let it drain out into a jug ( or two rubble sacks !) before the seal looses its contact.

I went a bit more high-tech, as my filter is on the starboard side of the engine (D1-30) and the access into the engine bay is to port (great bit of design there!). It's very hard to reach the filter location, so I fitted a remote filter kit and now it's mounted in an easily accessible position, hanging downwards to avoid spillage, and has a couple of brass hooks to hold a plastic bag for it to drop into. Mess-free oil changes needing just a single square of kitchen roll to wipe my fingers afterwards :)

My sump suck-out is the same as Troubadour's, from a banjo at the very bottom of the sump. I extended the pipe with a length of clear PVC hose, up to a position next to the filter, and I can simply plug in the Pela sucker and slurp it all out.

Pete
 
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