Wago bits

[zoidberg]

I want to run a dozen + lecky cables from a 12-gang switchbox about 0.5m into an internal locker, where I intend to bring 2x6 + cables from devices, and then make connections.

I'm looking at the Wago 221 Splicing Connectors w'Levers and the Wago 221 Inline Splicing Connectors w'Levers, and looking to fit these inside a waterproof Gelbox or two - which could themselves be securely mounted using industrial Velcro or screws.

Any negative 'xperience? Any better ideas?

 

[Boathook]

I'm very happy with using wago 221 on board. Just need to make sure that the cables aren't trying to be pulled out of them. I have sometimes mounted boxes using a water resistant adhesive / sealant rather than screws.

 

[jakew009]

I want to run a dozen + lecky cables from a 12-gang switchbox about 0.5m into an internal locker, where I intend to bring 2x6 + cables from devices, and then make connections.

I'm looking at the Wago 221 Splicing Connectors w'Levers and the Wago 221 Inline Splicing Connectors w'Levers, and looking to fit these inside a waterproof Gelbox or two - which could themselves be securely mounted using industrial Velcro or screws.

Any negative 'xperience? Any better ideas?

You would be much better off using a bit of DIN rail and some DIN rail terminal blocks

Rail-Mount Terminal Blocks

I wouldn’t use gel boxes either, that will make any future maintenance a total nightmare.

 

[DangerousPirate]

You would be much better off using a bit of DIN rail and some DIN rail terminal blocks

Rail-Mount Terminal Blocks

I wouldn’t use gel boxes either, that will make any future maintenance a total nightmare.

But gel boxes mean you wouldn't need to touch anything as it's perfectly sealed off. It's very easy to do, and ifyou REALLY MUST change anything, you can easily just clip the cable and redo it.

 

[jakew009]

But gel boxes mean you wouldn't need to touch anything as it's perfectly sealed off. It's very easy to do, and ifyou REALLY MUST change anything, you can easily just clip the cable and redo it.

You won’t find a single professional boat manufacturer or marine electrician using wago gel boxes (and for good reason).

 

[dgadee]

You would be much better off using a bit of DIN rail and some DIN rail terminal blocks

Rail-Mount Terminal Blocks

I wouldn’t use gel boxes either, that will make any future maintenance a total nightmare.

I am about to rewire. Might think about these if I can find a DIY guide to using them.

 

[zoidberg]

You won’t find a single professional boat manufacturer or marine electrician using wago gel boxes (and for good reason).

Thanks, jakew009.
If I could find a single professional marine electrician who could be persuaded to work on my boat ( all the good hot coffee and home-made buns! ) then I'd happily defer.... but the last one of them ^ I tried to engage with re a full-on rewiring and lithium install poo-poo'ed the idea.

They can't be hungry enuff...


My notion for using gel boxes derives from the requirement to mount 'arrangements' inside convenient small lockers built under the side-decks. I dunno right now, but that's where any small deck leaks and dribbles would likely accumulate - by Sods Law, right where the 'lecky connections are mounted.

P'rhaps it's time for a Plan B..... or C....

 

[Talulah]

Like most things Wago connectors have their place as do Gel boxes. The main consumer panel uses a DIN rail and Wago now do DIN mounted connectors with Wago style connections (but I've not seen anyone stock them). The one thing that no longer has a place are those plastic terminal strips where the screws eventually corrode. Wago every time instead. One of the main reasons I've heard for not using Wago is cost. Sometimes I inject the Wago connector with electrical sealant but in more exposed places use a gel box. I suspect a lot are put off by the cost of gel boxes.

 

[Talulah]

You won’t find a single professional boat manufacturer or marine electrician using wago gel boxes (and for good reason).

What is that good reason?

 

[jakew009]

What is that good reason?

When things go wrong (which they will in the future) you will need to be able to isolate parts of the circuit to get a meter on and debug it.

I’d you have hidden all your connections in wago gel boxes, that becomes a complete and utter nightmare.

It’s also just completely unnecessary. Wago gel boxes are designed for installing lighting in flower beds in your garden.

If your boat is so wet that you find yourself needing gel boxes it would probably be better to fix the leaks first

 

[jakew009]

Thanks, jakew009.
If I could find a single professional marine electrician who could be persuaded to work on my boat ( all the good hot coffee and home-made buns! ) then I'd happily defer.... but the last one of them ^ I tried to engage with re a full-on rewiring and lithium install poo-poo'ed the idea.

They can't be hungry enuff...

The reality is in many scenarios it’s just not commercially viable to do a complete rewire. The labour costs are too enormous for a complex boat.
Much more practical to just repair and maintain, perhaps replacing the fuse boards etc.

My notion for using gel boxes derives from the requirement to mount 'arrangements' inside convenient small lockers built under the side-decks. I dunno right now, but that's where any small deck leaks and dribbles would likely accumulate - by Sods Law, right where the 'lecky connections are mounted.

P'rhaps it's time for a Plan B..... or C....

Within reason you are better off home running all the wires back to a few central points that are nice and dry. You want to minimise the number of connections as far as possible.

Domestic style junction boxes spread all over the place are a nightmare to maintain and is a sure fire sign that a DIY’er has been having a go.

This is a typical gel box:

They also come in this style (but the principle is the same - just the gel is pre filled and less runny):

Please don’t use these on your boat

 

[PaulRainbow]

I am about to rewire. Might think about these if I can find a DIY guide to using them.

Fit DIN rail
Clip connectors onto the rail
Strip the ends of the wires
Crimp on bootlace ferrules to the stripped ends
Push into the connectors

If you need to remove a wire press the orange release catch and pull it out

Available in 2, 3 or 4 way variants, plus more with the stacked ones.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Thanks, jakew009.
If I could find a single professional marine electrician who could be persuaded to work on my boat ( all the good hot coffee and home-made buns! ) then I'd happily defer.... but the last one of them ^ I tried to engage with re a full-on rewiring and lithium install poo-poo'ed the idea.

They can't be hungry enuff...

Serious question, how big is your boat and how much would you expect to pay for a full rewire, excluding the LFP part ?

 

[dgadee]

Will do that. What about LED lighting circuits? One wire up SB and one up port and connect lights onto those? Boat had a wire to each bulb.

 

[Boathook]

Fit DIN rail
Clip connectors onto the rail
Strip the ends of the wires
Crimp on bootlace ferrules to the stripped ends
Push into the connectors

If you need to remove a wire press the orange release catch and pull it out

Available in 2, 3 or 4 way variants, plus more with the stacked ones.

View attachment 204053

Where do you get those connectors Paul. I can't find them on screwfix.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Where do you get those connectors Paul. I can't find them on screwfix.

HUB Electronics

The specific ones in my picture are: Search Results

 

[PaulRainbow]

Will do that. What about LED lighting circuits? One wire up SB and one up port and connect lights onto those? Boat had a wire to each bulb.

You can run a positive wire to the first light, fit it to a 3 way Wago, another wire from that Wago to the next light, fit another Wago, then to the next light etc. From each Wago a wire to the light. Repeat for the negatives. Key the Wagos with some 240 grit paper and epoxy in place.

 

[dgadee]

You can run a positive wire to the first light, fit it to a 3 way Wago, another wire from that Wago to the next light, fit another Wago, then to the next light etc. From each Wago a wire to the light. Repeat for the negatives. Key the Wagos with some 240 grit paper and epoxy in place.

Thanks. Didn't think about epoxying those in place. Great idea.