Wago bits

geem said:
Just accept that you are wrong. The wires don't look well supported.
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You are sitting on you boat several thousand miles away and you have never been on my boat so how can you be so certain based on a photo. This is a forum and I posted the photo in answer to questions about using Wago connectors. Nowhere have I sought approval for the way I have clipped the cables - the method I have used is appropriate for the location.

I don't need your, or anybody elses approval for what I do on my own boat.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Fit DIN rail
Clip connectors onto the rail
Strip the ends of the wires
Crimp on bootlace ferrules to the stripped ends
Push into the connectors

If you need to remove a wire press the orange release catch and pull it out

Available in 2, 3 or 4 way variants, plus more with the stacked ones.

View attachment 204053
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Why are bootlace ferrules needed please? Instead of just inserting the stripped end of a wire? I would have thought the stainless plate in the wago would squash the wires all flat and make a good connection.
 
Cerebus said:
Why are bootlace ferrules needed please? Instead of just inserting the stripped end of a wire? I would have thought the stainless plate in the wago would squash the wires all flat and make a good connection.
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You don’t have to use ferrules but it’s a much neater job if you do.

a) it makes it much easier to install the wires and you are less likely to get “whiskers”

b) if you need to take the wire in and out a few times the individual strands won’t get damaged

c) it reduces corrosion as the copper strands inside the ferrule should be protected by the tinned ferrule
 
Cerebus said:
Why are bootlace ferrules needed please? Instead of just inserting the stripped end of a wire? I would have thought the stainless plate in the wago would squash the wires all flat and make a good connection.
Click to expand...
jakew009 said:
You don’t have to use ferrules but it’s a much neater job if you do.

a) it makes it much easier to install the wires and you are less likely to get “whiskers”

b) if you need to take the wire in and out a few times the individual strands won’t get damaged

c) it reduces corrosion as the copper strands inside the ferrule should be protected by the tinned ferrule
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You can push the wires into the 221 series Wago because you open the clamp with the lever, i don't use ferules with these. You cannot push fine stranded wire into the DIN rail connectors, you have to use ferules.
 
Tranona said:
You are sitting on you boat several thousand miles away and you have never been on my boat so how can you be so certain based on a photo. This is a forum and I posted the photo in answer to questions about using Wago connectors. Nowhere have I sought approval for the way I have clipped the cables - the method I have used is appropriate for the location.
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Badly supported wiring is not appropriate in any location, boats or anywhere else.
Tranona said:
I don't need your, or anybody else's approval for what I do on my own boat.
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Indeed you don't, but you have been politely told that the cables are not correctly supported, your arrogance prevents you from learning something, hopefully others reading the thread will not suffer thus.
 
Tranona said:
You are sitting on you boat several thousand miles away and you have never been on my boat so how can you be so certain based on a photo. This is a forum and I posted the photo in answer to questions about using Wago connectors. Nowhere have I sought approval for the way I have clipped the cables - the method I have used is appropriate for the location.

I don't need your, or anybody elses approval for what I do on my own boat.
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You posted a photo of something that looks poor. You can't take the criticism of a professional marine electrician. You are never wrong are you
 
Is this a neat solution.... or what?

55022100857_60d7449c40.jpg


55022100937_339f6118b2.jpg


Wago L60 Wiring Centre 225x145x46mm for 221 Series 4mm only.

There are 29 positions for Twin connectors rated at up to 20A. Triples, Quads and Quins can be utilised. Input cables max'd at 18A.
 
Boathook said:
Yes, I linked it in post 25 or the slightly smaller version.
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You did, thanks. I hunted through various confusing WAGO online catalogues but finally bought one, with 2 packs of connectors, in a nearby Toolstation.

Two warnings: The higher-rated '6mm' 32A-rated connectors of the 221 series do NOT fit into this box. They are larger....
Also, leaflet with the purchased WAGO Wiring Centre L60 specifies '18A'.... not 32A as shown in the Screwfix ad and details. I and the store manager take this to mean the max. current per supply cable. Perhaps a pro electrical bod might clarify for us, for there is certainly ambiguity.
 
zoidberg said:
You did, thanks. I hunted through various confusing WAGO online catalogues but finally bought one, with 2 packs of connectors, in a nearby Toolstation.

Two warnings: The higher-rated '6mm' 32A-rated connectors of the 221 series do NOT fit into this box. They are larger....
Also, leaflet with the purchased WAGO Wiring Centre L60 specifies '18A'.... not 32A as shown in the Screwfix ad and details. I and the store manager take this to mean the max. current per supply cable. Perhaps a pro electrical bod might clarify for us, for there is certainly ambiguity.
Click to expand...
I re read the screwfix one I linked, as I thought it came with the connectors. How wrong I was ! The blurb though does mention only use the 4mm 221. I am more than likely still going to use one for all the mast wires as it will give a neat finish. Just need to count the wires first ...
 
Does Wago (or another major supplier) make anything like this (below)? Seems very handy for sub-panels. All I see is several no-name. Easy to screw down (also DIN rail option) and provides limited distribution. Could save a lot of round-trips.

1767590562758.png
 
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