VP 2003 engine alarm, and warning lights, not working.

[NealB]

As briefly hinted at in another thread, I recently fired up the engine in our 1989 Westerly Falcon.

After the usual starting routine (full throttle, then a couple of pulls on the stop control), it fired up, as usual, after just a few seconds on the starter.

Wonderful!!! The first time it's been run for not far off two years (as several big, life 'issues' have, sadly, taken priority).

It then ran perfectly, at just above tickover, for about 30 minutes (she's still ashore, so I couldn't run it in gear).

So far, so good.

However, there is obviously a fault (or several faults) with the starter panel.

When the 'power' button is push in (ie power 'on'), the warning lights don't light up, and the alarm doesn't sound: but the starter works perfectly.

Whilst running, the rev counter is dead.

Similarly, when I stopped the engine ........ again, no warning lights or alarm.

Any thoughts on diagnosis and solution will be very welcome, please.

eg Could it just be a blown fuse? A disturbed, or corroded, connection? An electronic failure, maybe?

 

[NealB]

I've just found this possibly very useful old thread: Volvo 2002, alarm before the engine starts.

Any other suggestions will still, of course, be warmly received.

 

[MoodySabre]

I found that the rev counter often needed to be excited by a burst of revs.

I only got an alarm when I stopped the engine and didn't power off (in my case with the key). No alarms on start.

 

[NealB]

I found that the rev counter often needed to be excited by a burst of revs.

I only got an alarm when I stopped the engine and didn't power off (in my case with the key). No alarms on start.

Thank you ........ I'll try a few more revs. to see if that excites things, and it could definitely be poor memory in regard to whether the alarm used to sound before cranking.

As there're several faults, all in the same sort of area, I'm hoping it'll be a common connection problem (maybe relay to alternator).

Should only take a minute or two to sort out, shouldn't it? ()

 

[MoodySabre]

Thank you ........ I'll try a few more revs. to see if that excites things, and it could definitely be poor memory in regard to whether the alarm used to sound before cranking.

As there're several faults, all in the same sort of area, I'm hoping it'll be a common connection problem (maybe relay to alternator).

Should only take a minute or two to sort out, shouldn't it? ()

I solved all my VP problems. With a Beta 30!

 

[PaulRainbow]

Thank you ........ I'll try a few more revs. to see if that excites things, and it could definitely be poor memory in regard to whether the alarm used to sound before cranking.

As there're several faults, all in the same sort of area, I'm hoping it'll be a common connection problem (maybe relay to alternator).

Could be a fuse, could be a bad negative connection, time to get the multimeter out Neil.

Should only take a minute day or two to sort out, shouldn't it? ()

Fixed that for you

 

[NealB]

I solved all my VP problems. With a Beta 30!

Get thee behind me ...... whatever your name is.

 

[NealB]

Could be a fuse, could be a bad negative connection, time to get the multimeter out Neil.

Fixed that for you

Oh ...... ye of little faith.

But I fear you're being optimistic.

 

[kacecar]

I have a VP2003 and when I had some odd problems with the starter panel it turned out to be a bad connection in a multiplug socket in the cable harness. Might be worth a check.

No pictures I'm afraid, but on my boat, the multiplug sits near the top of the engine, starboard side. The main power feed to the panel comes from the fuse box on top of the engine and is one of the seven wires that go into the multiplug, less than a foot away. There are no pics of the thing in the VP2003 workshop manual but the wiring diagrams in there infer its presence - I'm not an electrician but I found those diagrams useful.

 

[NealB]

Thanks for that (post #9 by kacecar).

The older thread that I linked to in post #2, gave this useful looking link: INSTRUMENT PANEL12V.doc

I'll have a look onboard tomorrow.

 

[kacecar]

Thanks for that (post #9 by kacecar).

The older thread that I linked to in post #2, gave this useful looking link: INSTRUMENT PANEL12V.doc

I'll have a look onboard tomorrow.

No probs. If you are looking at old threads the one in 2020 where my own panel issue was discussed might be of interest. I'm not sure how to link to it so look for "VP2003 Gremlin". Best of luck.

 

[NealB]

No probs. If you are looking at old threads the one in 2020 where my own panel issue was discussed might be of interest. I'm not sure how to link to it so look for "VP2003 Gremlin". Best of luck.

Thanks again, kacecar.

Just in case it's useful to anyone else, here's the thread kacecar refers to: VP2003 Gremlin

 

[VicS]

When the 'power' button is push in (ie power 'on'), the warning lights don't light up, and the alarm doesn't sound: but the starter works perfectly.

Whilst running, the rev counter is dead.

Similarly, when I stopped the engine ........ again, no warning lights or alarm.

Any thoughts on diagnosis and solution will be very welcome, please.

eg Could it just be a blown fuse? A disturbed, or corroded, connection? An electronic failure, maybe?

The fact that the engine can be started Ok from the start button on the panel indicates that there is power getting to the panel. It rules out failure of the fuse and any problem in the multipin connectors at least as far as power to the panel is concerned.

The only things in the panel which need a negative/earth are the alarm test circuit and the tacho. A bad negative connection to the panel will not affect the operation of the warning lights.
However, if the engine has an isolated electrical system a bad common negative for the alarm sensors and the alternator would explain all the problems. Therefore check this out if relevant

If the "ignition" warning light is not operating there will be no initial excitation current for the alternator which will therefore not start to generate. If the alternator is not generating there will be no signal to the tacho. This could explain the apparently dead tacho.

I would check the power supply (red/blue wire) to both the electronic module and the tacho.
If there is no power to these two It would indicate bad connection within the panel which should be easy to find and fix.
If there is a power supply to the electronic module it would suggest that the most likely cause of all the troubles is the failure of the electronic module ( probably something very simple but not fixable )

 

[NealB]

The fact that the engine can be started Ok from the start button on the panel indicates that there is power getting to the panel. It rules out failure of the fuse and any problem in the multipin connectors at least as far as power to the panel is concerned.

The only things in the panel which need a negative/earth are the alarm test circuit and the tacho. A bad negative connection to the panel will not affect the operation of the warning lights.
However, if the engine has an isolated electrical a bad common negative for the alarm sensors and the alternator would explain all the problems. Therefore check this out if relevant

If the "ignition" warning light is not operating there will be no initial excitation current for the alternator which will therefore not start to generate. If the alternator is not generating there will be no signal to the tacho. This could explain the apparently dead tacho.

I would check the power supply (red/blue wire) to both the electronic module and the tacho.
If there is no power to these two It would indicate bad connection within the panel which should be easy to find and fix.
If there is a power supply to the electronic module it would suggest that the most likely cause of all the troubles is the failure of the electronic module ( probably something very simple but not fixable )

Thank you, VicS, for taking the time to think it through so logically and then write it down.

Looking for "an isolated electrical a bad common negative for the alarm sensors and the alternator" sounds like it might be good place to start.

 

[VicS]

Thank you, VicS, for taking the time to think it through so logically and then write it down.

Looking for "an isolated electrical a bad common negative for the alarm sensors and the alternator" sounds like it might be good place to start.

Sorry. There was a word missing from that ( now corrected.)

It should have read, "However, if the engine has an isolated electrical system, a bad common negative for the alarm sensors and the alternator would explain all the problems."

That series of engines may have an isolated electrical system ( ie the engine block not used as the negative connection for the engine electrics ) I think probably only when used in conjunction with a sail drive, If so and your boat has a shaft drive the comment probably does not apply.

My first line of investigation would be checking the power to the electronic module. but tackling easiest things to do first is not a bad idea. Leave the difficult things and most expensive to rectify 'til last.

 

[NealB]

Sorry. There was a word missing from that ( now corrected.)

It should have read, "However, if the engine has an isolated electrical system, a bad common negative for the alarm sensors and the alternator would explain all the problems."

That series of engines may have an isolated electrical system ( ie the engine block not used as the negative connection for the engine electrics ) I think probably only when used in conjunction with a sail drive, If so and your boat has a shaft drive the comment probably does not apply.

My first line of investigation would be checking the power to the electronic module. but tackling easiest things to do first is not a bad idea. Leave the difficult things and most expensive to rectify 'til last.

Thanks VicS, and absolutely no apology needed.

I only managed a rather frustrating hour on board today, and that was before I'd seen your post #15.

I removed, cleaned up, and refitted some spade connections, admittedly almost at random, around the alternator. They all looked fairly neat and clean anyway.

There's one red cable, that is connected to the top of the alternator at one end, but is just an unconnected female bullet type connector at its other end. I was hoping to find a corresponding male connector, but didn't spot anything.

 

[VicS]

There's one red cable, that is connected to the top of the alternator at one end, but is just an unconnected female bullet type connector at its other end. I was hoping to find a corresponding male connector, but didn't spot anything.

I don't know what that is . Red should indicate a connection to the battery positive or alternator output and the only red wire connected to the alternator should be the 10mm² main output from the B+ terminal to the starter motor solenoid.

Has any form of alternator booster or smart alternator regulator been fitted or perhaps fitted and then removed ?

 

[NealB]

I don't know what that is . Red should indicate a connection to the battery positive or alternator output and the only red wire connected to the alternator should be the 10mm² main output from the B+ terminal to the starter motor solenoid.

Has any form of alternator booster or smart alternator regulator been fitted or perhaps fitted and then removed ?

I think the easiest way to investigate the 'wild' red cable will be to take the alternator off, so that I can see the terminals reasonably easily.

There's certainly not been an alternator booster, or smart regulator, added in our ownership (from 2017).

This next bit is embarrassing (but true!), so please don't let anyone else know: I also don't think any such device is fitted at the moment. I'll have a look tomorrow.

 

[Stemar]

If it turns out that the panel is u/s, it's simple enough to do without.

The VP2003 I put in Jissel didn't have a panel, so I made one. Just an "ignition" switch feeding a start button, a charge warning light, oil pressure and temperature warning lights with cheap buzzers in parallel. Since I had a battery isolator below, I didn't bother with a key switch. Moving everything outside, close to the throttle control made starting the engine in a hurry much easier - an essential when dodging container ships in the Solent!

 

[NealB]

If it turns out that the panel is u/s, it's simple enough to do without.

The VP2003 I put in Jissel didn't have a panel, so I made one. Just an "ignition" switch feeding a start button, a charge warning light, oil pressure and temperature warning lights with cheap buzzers in parallel. Since I had a battery isolator below, I didn't bother with a key switch. Moving everything outside, close to the throttle control made starting the engine in a hurry much easier - an essential when dodging container ships in the Solent!

That sounds like a good, workable, set-up.