westernman
Well-Known Member
Yanmar 4JHE[2-4] engines are usually supplied with a gearbox which can run permanently in either direction.
So you can choose which way you want it to kick in reverse by choosing a left or right handed prop.
Volvo, Yanmar or Nanni?
- Thread starter rgsmg53
- Start date
So you can choose which way you want it to kick in reverse by choosing a left or right handed prop.
ss2016
Well-Known Member
I don't have comparative experience but have owned a D6 for 2 seasons. The engine seems fine. The only comment I can make is that to ask VP a simple question and getting a meaningful reply is very difficult. Here in the UK they do not want to delight customers. We are here only to pay their salaries! Probably different in Sweden.
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volvopaul
Well-Known Member
Really you been talking to the wrong guys , what do you want to know?
ss2016
Well-Known Member
Hi Paul, kind of you to offer. My boat/engine -D6- was new in April'21.
I would very much have liked to use an independent engineer down here in F'mouth. Because of the warranty issue that's hard to do so I have to go through the dealer. The engineer who does the work is great but the dealership is at odds with VP.
Some of the questions I had hoped to get a quick answer from VP were:
1. What does this fault code mean? I forget the code. It stopped coming but it illustrates that a list of the meaning of fault codes would be helpful. It was either under/over voltage if memory serves me correctly. (Probably under because the boat had stood for a couple of weeks. ) The dealer spent time, said no significant problem (under voltage I think ) and sent me a bill. If VP had told me the fault code meant under voltage, not say a broken crankshaft I could have have just started the engine.
2. Getting a clear description of the alternator output was hard. I was thinking of switching to AGM. OP voltages were not documented that I could find. Getting the answer was like pulling teeth.
3. Easyconnect is a poor bit of software but slowly getting better. (My lawn mower is far further on!) At first it was Will-not-connect and getting support for that was hell. A software problem. Now they want me to be able to see maintenance records. The old system of records between the dealer and VP was not available to the owner! The trouble is when I tried the new system it does not work. So I go to Easy connect support, and after tooing and froing they say the 'Chassis number' has not been entered. (It knows the part numbers of the engine/shield/drive and lots more.) They have never, on all of the bits of paper, told me the chassis number though I am told it is on the engine. So now I or the engineer has to go to the boat,copy the number if its there, enter it through the dealer so I can see the records. I suggested since they must know it. No, they could not do that....different dept..
4. There is a lot of useful info in the W'shop manual not in the service manual as to how the systems work. It is prohibitively expensive and not available on line. I have a copy now and as an interested owner its a good read. Another manual I would like to read relates to the EVC. How can I get the manual relating to that? Two reasons. I) Iam pretty sure the 'snail' setting has never been calibrated. ii) what if I have to re settle EVC mid channel? I know of another owner who has had that happen! I don't think they even acknowledge to an owner the manual exists!
I will stop ranting. VP are in the fortunate situation of having a near monopoly on a pretty good engine. What they don't have is the idea of delighting customers with support. In fact it is s**t!
I would very much have liked to use an independent engineer down here in F'mouth. Because of the warranty issue that's hard to do so I have to go through the dealer. The engineer who does the work is great but the dealership is at odds with VP.
Some of the questions I had hoped to get a quick answer from VP were:
1. What does this fault code mean? I forget the code. It stopped coming but it illustrates that a list of the meaning of fault codes would be helpful. It was either under/over voltage if memory serves me correctly. (Probably under because the boat had stood for a couple of weeks. ) The dealer spent time, said no significant problem (under voltage I think ) and sent me a bill. If VP had told me the fault code meant under voltage, not say a broken crankshaft I could have have just started the engine.
2. Getting a clear description of the alternator output was hard. I was thinking of switching to AGM. OP voltages were not documented that I could find. Getting the answer was like pulling teeth.
3. Easyconnect is a poor bit of software but slowly getting better. (My lawn mower is far further on!) At first it was Will-not-connect and getting support for that was hell. A software problem. Now they want me to be able to see maintenance records. The old system of records between the dealer and VP was not available to the owner! The trouble is when I tried the new system it does not work. So I go to Easy connect support, and after tooing and froing they say the 'Chassis number' has not been entered. (It knows the part numbers of the engine/shield/drive and lots more.) They have never, on all of the bits of paper, told me the chassis number though I am told it is on the engine. So now I or the engineer has to go to the boat,copy the number if its there, enter it through the dealer so I can see the records. I suggested since they must know it. No, they could not do that....different dept..
4. There is a lot of useful info in the W'shop manual not in the service manual as to how the systems work. It is prohibitively expensive and not available on line. I have a copy now and as an interested owner its a good read. Another manual I would like to read relates to the EVC. How can I get the manual relating to that? Two reasons. I) Iam pretty sure the 'snail' setting has never been calibrated. ii) what if I have to re settle EVC mid channel? I know of another owner who has had that happen! I don't think they even acknowledge to an owner the manual exists!
I will stop ranting. VP are in the fortunate situation of having a near monopoly on a pretty good engine. What they don't have is the idea of delighting customers with support. In fact it is s**t!
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately your in an area of the uk that’s badly supported by dealers , not sure who the Falmouth dealer is as I’m central south coast . I would need the code , the fault could be down to just a low battery or both domestic and engine start , the split diode pack senses and tells the alternator what to do , you then get a different voltage on the engine electric side to the domestics , that’s where it all goes wrong and you get the alarm and code . I’m a great believer in if it’s not broke don’t fix it . To end up with a bill from the dealer isn’t fair and I would challenge it before you pay it , dealers are pretty much all the same when it comes to good will if your a regular customer or the lack of it , I know I’ve seen enough dealer invoices to clients to make you scream . Faults on new boats are often down to builders fault on poor installation, I had that drilled into me on courses years ago , When Sealine we’re building in the UK they were always the hot topic of guess where they hid the HCU on build etc etc and look where it filled with water through badly designed air inlet vents .
The point I’m making is that despite all the bad press and endless forums being created on social media it’s not always Volvopenta fault , they only supply it and most builders self certify the installation on a tick box report sheet which is crazy . Happy boating .
ss2016
Well-Known Member
Cheers Paul, yes, you are a bit far E for me. The good news is the dealer's engineer is good so I am not too worried. It's behind him and behind the dealer that bothers me.
I do think though you should be able to ask a simple question and get a simple answer. Like "What does this code mean?", without having to go to the dealer. Put the document on line.
Thanks for your interest, Steve.
I do think though you should be able to ask a simple question and get a simple answer. Like "What does this code mean?", without having to go to the dealer. Put the document on line.
Thanks for your interest, Steve.
oldgit
Well-Known Member
ss2016
Well-Known Member
I have a lot of time for AJ, but as I said at the start with a new engine there is the warranty issue. He is helpful. Talking to him yesterday.
Vale72
New Member
In my opinion, the best engine for those kinds of boats and in particular for the Merry Fisher 805 is the Volvo Penta TAMD41P. A simple workhorse without electronics. 150 kg heavier than the 200hp Nanni and YANMAR Toyota based engines, but a bit more powerful in real world. It has no timing belt to change and no anodes. The P is the last version of this glorious engine, less smoky than the previous. Avoid, if you can, the following D series, especially the D3. Another thing: in the MF805 the 150 kgs more of the engine are in a good position to improve the overall stability.