Beneteau381
Well-known member
Dont forget Vic if the sh ever hits the fan Ive got the refurbed head and block in the garage that I did up for the pbo article
Volvo Penta MD-22 Seized / Repair or Replace?
- Thread starter Baroudeur
- Start date
Bobc
Well-known member
Yes, they beefed up the bottom end to cope with the higher loads and compression. This is why it only has a 17:1 compression ratio and revs to 4300rpm.
sailaboutvic
Well-known member
Thanks stu keep it in mind , so far she good but if I can find a good second hand fresh water pump and a Sean water pump at a fair price I may buy them as spares , although I have a new shaft for the sea water pump loaded with bearing so it just a matter of knocking one out and putting the next one in .
Beneteau381
Well-known member
I got a fresh water pump a few years ago, it was for a leyland daf van iirc. cheap as chips. the sea water pump, I rebuilt my mates last year, I always carry spare bearings and seals. I got lucky a few years ago, a lucas starter and valeo alternator came up on ebay, got them for about £20 each
sailaboutvic
Well-known member
If you remember what van type the fresh water pump came off I be interested, it be handily to have a spare next time I'm back in the UK
lw395
Well-known member
To be fair to the 'engineer' the OP seems to be open to the idea of upgrading the engine.
It's 20 years old and will still be an old lump when you've spent money on it.
It's always a problem knowing when to stop. You could run up a £1k bill trying to sort the old engine and fail.
As an amateur, I'd have it to bits and see what was what, because my time is effectively free. I might not want to pay someone to do that.
Before pulling it apart, I'd look into its trade in value.
There's also the cost or value associated with losing a chunk of this short season while the engine is in bits. That's got to be a personal evaluation.
It's 20 years old and will still be an old lump when you've spent money on it.
It's always a problem knowing when to stop. You could run up a £1k bill trying to sort the old engine and fail.
As an amateur, I'd have it to bits and see what was what, because my time is effectively free. I might not want to pay someone to do that.
Before pulling it apart, I'd look into its trade in value.
There's also the cost or value associated with losing a chunk of this short season while the engine is in bits. That's got to be a personal evaluation.
Bobc
Well-known member
None of those available any more. The only place I found to get them now was partsforengines.co.uk
Bobc
Well-known member
That's kind of where I got to. I can do it all myself, but once I'd costed-up a re-bore and crank re-grind, a complete re-build set, new starter motor, etc., I was in to about £2k and I'd still have a 20 year old engine that's hard to get parts for. What really did it for me however was that once I'd got it apart, I saw that the heat exchanger casting was corroded, so suddenly it was a definite no-go.
Even then, I sold the good bits of the engine (head, injection pump, electric panel, gearbox, etc. for about £1,500, which meant that the cost of a new engine was only about twice the cost of re-building the old one, and everything is new, warrantied, and modern.
As you say, he'll also lose the entire season by doing a re-build, whereas by re-powering, he could be running again in a month.
[163233]
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...and Yanmar make tractors.They were still within spec. Isnt the beta marine a vehicle engine as well?
Scrap it obvs.
Have a look on appolloduck and boatsandoutboards, you might get a decent recently refurbed one for a couple of grand which would be a straight replacement.
I'm not sure how you make sure they're running when you buy like that though.
At least you'd have a lot of spares for it...
Bobc
Well-known member
Just another quick thought for the OP, if he does want to replace it, he will find that a modern 40hp will be every bit as powerful as his current engine, so I would go for either a Volvo D2-40 or a Beta43.
The reason being that the Prima is quite a high revving engine and if you are cruising it at 2500rpm, you are only getting about 25-30hp from it, and you will get that from one of the engines above at about 2,000rpm because they only rev to 3,000rpm.
The reason being that the Prima is quite a high revving engine and if you are cruising it at 2500rpm, you are only getting about 25-30hp from it, and you will get that from one of the engines above at about 2,000rpm because they only rev to 3,000rpm.
Beneteau381
Well-known member
Try here for part numbers Savings on Volvo Penta engine spares - Practical Boat Owner
Beneteau381
Well-known member
Whats your thoughts on the chinese engines?
Beneteau381
Well-known member
Just spoke to BGA, the water pump manufacturer, they no longer make them. Obsolete, so P4engines is the best bet. Still not too expensive.
The last thing that was unavailable was a new oil pump. There are several types for the different engine placements. However, I sent him the Maestro turbo one I had off the rebuilt engine I did, what he found out was that all the different pumps have the same innards, so he commisioned some new innards and now sells an oil pump refurb kit. Basically a lobe and housing. I have one here!
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sailaboutvic
Well-known member
Thanks stu I probably order a new pump from them if we not lock down again and I get back to the UK over winter , I like a spare .
Bobc
Well-known member
The didn't do one the right size that would fit by engine bay, so didn't look too hard. To be honest though, the savings aren't worth the punt. You can get 20% off a Volvo or Beta, and in the scheme of things (when you have added all the costs together of the engine, sterngear, lift out, cranage, etc.), a Chinese engine only reduces the cost by about 10%. Just not worth it IMO.
Bobc
Well-known member
This is the other problem. The Prima parts are getting harder to find. Nobody is making bits for them any more, so it's just what old stock they have left. Keep an eye on ebay, as occasionally you get a motor factor having a clearout of old stock.
lw395
Well-known member
Very nice, but how often do those things wear out?
I've got something similar as a paperweight, it's still within spec, having come out of a 1963 Hillman engine where every other part was pretty sordid.
If you trash an oil pump, don't you normally trash the housing those parts run in?
As I see it, an amateur can strip, clean and re-assemble an engine, replacing only the most knackered parts. It should then run for another n years and that's OK.
When you start paying for labour, you are on a slippery slope of replacing every slightly worn bit, because you need to be sure of getting 10 years out of it to be economic.
mjcoon
Well-known member
Not in the least boaty, but at one time my paperweight was a Hillman Imp piston that was split (IIRC) and certainly well burnt through... The oil/water emulsion that resulted in the sump was certainly sordid!
Beneteau381
Well-known member
He reckoned he was getting reports that the lobes were wearing first. He knows what he is doing so have no reason to disbelive him. your comments on amateurs I agree with, going back to the OP, £400 will get him a rebuild kit if necessary. Personally,I think some freeing stuff down the injectors would sort it!
Mandarin331
Member
We had a seized Volvo 2030, which the local Volvo dealer wrote off without any real investigation. when we had a real engineer look at it he found the piston ring had broken, jammed and scored the bore. With a rebore, new cylinder liner and piston it was fine.
For some reason the Volvo dealer just wanted to sell a new engine
For some reason the Volvo dealer just wanted to sell a new engine
