Volvo Penta Dph trim hose?

E

ergono

Member
Joined
7 May 2011
Messages
31
Visit site
Hi,
I'm trying to replace my stb power trim hoses from Dph stern drive. (Both leaking).
Hoses are now free and disassembled from pump and cylinders.
I've removed lock nuts from hoses from engine room side ( pain in the ass job), but i cant still remove them from transom shield?
I understood that they are now only kept in place with o-rings after removing nuts from engineroom side?
Should they just come out from transom shield holes with enough pull or is there some tool or trick?
They spin nicely in hole, but not coming out and its quite impossible push them from engineroom side without moving engines.

Volvopaul could u help?

Thanks
E
 
They are spinning on the o rings, I attach mole grips to the outside and prise down or you can hit your grips to knock it down, just turning won't pull them out.
With the grips on prise down with a large bladed screwdriver.

You have done well to get at the nuts on the inside, some boats need the engine moving forward or even out to do this.
 
Thanks a lot!
I was thinking something like that, but was not sure and afraid to break something!
New try tomorrow, thanks once again :)
 
ergono said:
Hi,
I'm trying to replace my stb power trim hoses from Dph stern drive. (Both leaking).
Hoses are now free and disassembled from pump and cylinders.
I've removed lock nuts from hoses from engine room side ( pain in the ass job), but i cant still remove them from transom shield?
I understood that they are now only kept in place with o-rings after removing nuts from engineroom side?
Should they just come out from transom shield holes with enough pull or is there some tool or trick?
They spin nicely in hole, but not coming out and its quite impossible push them from engineroom side without moving engines.

Volvopaul could u help?

Thanks
E
Click to expand...

It's a really simple job, all you need is Paul's number and hey presto it gets done, couldn't be easier.
 
Or you can tap them out from inside with a long screwdriver, grease them well and you will need to tap them 'in' from outside to get the O ring to compress. Then you will need someone to hold them outside while you tighten the nuts inside or they will twist around. you can either tighten them holding them in the correct orientation for the nipples to fit the cylinder afterwards, but its tricky as its easy to cross thread them as the hoses are stiff and fight back, or you can start the threads on the nipples first and then work the hoses in through the transom and then finally tighten when the hoses are secure.
 
spannerman said:
Or you can tap them out from inside with a long screwdriver, grease them well and you will need to tap them 'in' from outside to get the O ring to compress. Then you will need someone to hold them outside while you tighten the nuts inside or they will twist around. you can either tighten them holding them in the correct orientation for the nipples to fit the cylinder afterwards, but its tricky as its easy to cross thread them as the hoses are stiff and fight back, or you can start the threads on the nipples first and then work the hoses in through the transom and then finally tighten when the hoses are secure.
Click to expand...

Thats impossible in SC35. No way do anything from above.
After removing air filter cover I barely reached to nuts with mole grips to hold them.
I had to loose both from outside.

Anyway hoses are now removed. Volvopauls tip worked like charm. :D

I hope new ones will go back little bit easier with lot of grease.
I have to tight them with same method to correct position and last job is connect nipples.

Nice design from VP. I really don't understand why hoses can't be attached to transom shield from outside with threads only (like steering hoses). :mad-new:

Solentphill: I would really like to use Volvopaul, but haven't found any good from Finland yet ;) Local "Volvopaul" told its no do job without moving engine.
 
We use a special socket from VP which makes it easier, we've never had to remove an engine, just exhaust downpipe and bracing strut.
 
The recent down pipe corrosion issues , which over here in the uk was definite on the sc35 dealers advised new trim and steering hoses to be fitted while the engine is moved forward, makes sense even if your paying for the parts.

Have you checked your serial numbers against this recall? Details from your dealer though I bet spannerman knows the serial batch numbers off by heart.
 
I had to change hoses on my stbd leg last year. Cranchi Pelican 32 with d4 and DPH legs. Engineer said it was lucky it was stbd leg as the port engine would have to be moved to change pipes. Seems to me that VP have had all sorts of problems with the DPH legs. The steering rams problems are well known and I had to change them 4 times before they eventually came up with a solution. To their credit VP did meet the full cost after I complained to the CEO that the legs were "not fit for purpose".
Have VP made a recall on dph legs with corrosion issues on the power trim hoses then?
 
Hi Volvo Frinds " glad to here that i am not alone with problems change of Hydralic hoses on the DP H Legs , i have a nice Cranchi 34 , it is more les impossible to change the hose on stb leg , the BB leg is little better but more og les impossible, A: i have a idea of making a hydraulic transverse flange with hinged hinge on both sides for mounting a short hose from the transum plate to the trim cylinder , and inside from the transum plate to the pump does anyone know if this has been made ? ,
B: Does anyone know the name of the "baster that has made this stubide design, then he can change the hoses on garanti .
Regards from Denmark
 
amanda said:
Hi Volvo Frinds " glad to here that i am not alone with problems change of Hydralic hoses on the DP H Legs , i have a nice Cranchi 34 , it is more les impossible to change the hose on stb leg , the BB leg is little better but more og les impossible, A: i have a idea of making a hydraulic transverse flange with hinged hinge on both sides for mounting a short hose from the transum plate to the trim cylinder , and inside from the transum plate to the pump does anyone know if this has been made ? ,
B: Does anyone know the name of the "baster that has made this stubide design, then he can change the hoses on garanti .
Regards from Denmark
Click to expand...

Hope you can understand me , as your English is better than my Danish , I only know Carlsberg !

The hoses push down from the top , use a long screwdriver and hammer they will push down ,
To gain access remove , air filter box .
Bracket from side of engine low down .
Air filter 90 degree inlet hose .
Exhaust elbow from turbo to downpipe
Rubber exhaust hose and clamps .
You then have great access . There is really no other way to do this even on an easy access engine bay .
At the same time on the port engine replace the shift cable and the steering cable if you have a steering indicator , you will thank me in the future as most of the previous parts you remove will have to be removed to renew cables.
Good luck .
 
This is another thread that makes me very uneasy about having a boat with a DPH/ DPR drive long term.

The (American) DPS drives I had for 14 odd years were so very easy to work on.

Why couldn't they have increased every component capacity by say 10- 15% to make an easy to work on drive suitable for the D4/ D6 I wonder ? The DPS itself was already used for the D3, the DPS was used with the 8.1 petrol V8 so it's hardly weak,
 
Last edited:
Hello as i was reading i realised that i’m not the only one having some trubles exchanging the trim hoses in Penta D4-260 / DPH drive and my troubles are double as we have twins egine.
I was wondering if some one remeber the size and waht would be the best tool to remove the 984415 hexagon nut / position 12 in the exploded view attached (Link).
Really appreciate any advice as this screw is really hard to reach :)
 
MasterMirko said:
Hello as i was reading i realised that i’m not the only one having some trubles exchanging the trim hoses in Penta D4-260 / DPH drive and my troubles are double as we have twins egine.
I was wondering if some one remeber the size and waht would be the best tool to remove the 984415 hexagon nut / position 12 in the exploded view attached (Link).
Really appreciate any advice as this screw is really hard to reach :)
Click to expand...
Read my previous posts in this thread as everything is explained here to change the hoses .
 
Hi vovopaul first thank you for the super fast replay.
I was asking for the size of the hexagon nut as we are placed in Croatia and our tools are in mm so was wandering if you could tell us the exactly size of the nut in inc. so i can order the correct tool as our experience shows that using the mm tools often we damage the nuts.
Thank you and apologize if i was not clear enough with my question.
 
Seems to be a common denominator in this thread. "Volvo Penta" are bad guys for such a poor design! Now consider that VP had little or no input in the place the boat designer placed these technical parts with no regard to access or repair. As a supplier to the boat builder how long would VP last if they dictated, no you cannot build your boat like that?

So maybe we should think a little differently, a little less VP are garbage, and maybe a little more, my boat designer / builder could have done a bit better:)
 
springer said:
Seems to be a common denominator in this thread. "Volvo Penta" are bad guys for such a poor design! Now consider that VP had little or no input in the place the boat designer placed these technical parts with no regard to access or repair. As a supplier to the boat builder how long would VP last if they dictated, no you cannot build your boat like that?

So maybe we should think a little differently, a little less VP are garbage, and maybe a little more, my boat designer / builder could have done a bit better:)
Click to expand...
My view is that both parties are to blame .
The French builders have no idea how to engineer a boat that’s easy to work on , sealine built some pretty poor engine bays too .
but that’s another debate .
 
MasterMirko said:
Hi vovopaul first thank you for the super fast replay.
I was asking for the size of the hexagon nut as we are placed in Croatia and our tools are in mm so was wandering if you could tell us the exactly size of the nut in inc. so i can order the correct tool as our experience shows that using the mm tools often we damage the nuts.
Thank you and apologize if i was not clear enough with my question.
Click to expand...
You don’t need a spanner as you often can’t get one in that you buy off the shelf , a crows foot type is the only one that can work .
I use a large screwdriver and hammer to undo the nut and replace with a new one
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Stampede
Volvo Penta DP-H steering hydraulic Hose Replacement
Replies
8
Views
311
Stampede
Stampede

Share this page

Top