Volvo Penta D4 Shift Actuator Problems

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dunsnorting

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Hi all. Just wondering if anyone out there can help...

I have a 2010 Fairline T38 with D4s. I had a fault on the Port Engine, which would start but not go into gear. The EVC system indicated an EVC fault and, on investigation, the shift cable was very stiff to operate. The actuator would not move, even with the shift cable disconnected, so I replaced it with a new one (£500 - ouch). With the new actuator connected but the shift cable still disconnected I have done an EVC calibration and cleared the fault code, but the new actuator still won’t move from the neutral position either ahead or astern. The green light on the EVC panel stays on when the lever is moved from the neutral position, and the status light on both HCUs is green.

The boat’s coming out of the water for new shift cables next week, but I’m keen to get the actuator working first. Grateful for any help or advice!
 
Just swapped the actuators over, and still the same problem with a known good actuator (just in case the new actuator was duff)... Must be something with the HCU or helm station. I had a look at the installation instructions and they show a pair of steering control units and reset buttons. I can’t find them anywhere on the boat - are they just for joystick controls?
 
dunsnorting said:
Hi all. Just wondering if anyone out there can help...

I have a 2010 Fairline T38 with D4s. I had a fault on the Port Engine, which would start but not go into gear. The EVC system indicated an EVC fault and, on investigation, the shift cable was very stiff to operate. The actuator would not move, even with the shift cable disconnected, so I replaced it with a new one (£500 - ouch). With the new actuator connected but the shift cable still disconnected I have done an EVC calibration and cleared the fault code, but the new actuator still won’t move from the neutral position either ahead or astern. The green light on the EVC panel stays on when the lever is moved from the neutral position, and the status light on both HCUs is green.

The boat’s coming out of the water for new shift cables next week, but I’m keen to get the actuator working first. Grateful for any help or advice!
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Depends which generation you have , there could be a neutral switch in the control which has failed , which if it has there may have been nothing g wrong with your shift actuator in the first place .
The way to test it would have been to swap the actuators over .
It could also be the pot sensor in the control.

Lastly I do wonder why as a rule there seem to be more shift actuators fail on targa 38s than I’ve heard of on other models.
 
volvopaul said:
Lastly I do wonder why as a rule there seem to be more shift actuators fail on targa 38s than I’ve heard of on other models.
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If it helps with numbers, I have known of one failure on a Sealine and another on a Windy :p
 
Thanks volvopaul - I swapped over the actuators today and they are both fine on the Stbd Unit, so it looks as if it’s something up the line on Port. I also swapped the HCU plugs over for the Helm Control - that seems to be working ok. Similarly the EVC Control Panel (indications were just reversed). HCU status lights are both green, and there are no fault codes, so Im definitely stumped now! The units are EVC-C3.

Sounds like I need a man with a laptop...
 
The actuator plugs into the PCU on the side of the engine.
Could be a PCU or cable issue of some sort around there ...

http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/express/pdf/POST EVC-C.pdf

Probably a good idea to test properly before spending more money, but if you did source a replacement PCU it would need to be programmed to the boat to work (presumably to discourage owners of failed PCU’s from climbing into the engine bays of similar boats with a screwdriver :D).

.
 
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Yes, I suspect the root cause was the cable, as I could hardly move it when I disconnected it from the actuator. New cables on both sides going in tomorrow and I’ve seen other posts recommending a 5 yearly replacement routine. At only about £35 each, probably worth considering. Unfortunately mine seems to have caused a problem in the electronics - beginning to sound even more expensive!
 
Unless you've got the DPH with electronic steering then you can swap the PCU's temporarily from one engine to the other to test the theory. As rightly pointed out earlier, the PCU is responsible for switching the power to the actuator, and is the control unit that will report a fault if there is one, so it would be a good place to check next given the other checks you've already done.

Its sounds like you might have already done the following, but to clarify - if you wanted to check the throttle side of things (i.e. the neutral switch) then the 'easiest' way of doing so would be to locate the HCU's ((I think) rear berth, stb'd side window, pull down the headlining (having removed the blinds if fitted!) and look for 2 x Volvo Penta boxes with a flashing light and 6 x plugs/sockets):
- Swap either the blue (2nd from left) plug - this will make the port lever control the stb'd side and vice versa
or
- Swap the green plug (3rd from left) - this will make the whole port side of the helm (gauges etc.) control the stb'd engine and vice versa

If the problem moves then you've got a problem at the helm end - if the problem stays on the port side then you've got an issue in the engine bay.
 
Many thanks for the reply Andyroonot. It definitely sounds like either software, wiring or PCU. I’ve found the HCUs and done a load of plug swapping. Either HCU will control the Stbd Actuator, but no joy with Port at all. I’ve had a few goes at the Config Mode and notice that Port will configure with no faults indicated with the actuator disconnected completely! The neutral light even goes out when I move the lever. If I then plug the actuator back in and reconfigure, the neutral light stays on whatever the lever position.

I’m a bit reluctant to start swapping PCUs, because I’m not clear about how to get one out - they seem more built in to the engine than the ECUs... I guess that’s the next obvious step though, so will do a bit of googling!

Just had a look on line and I think I’m being a numpty. I was thinking there were two different units on the engine - ECU on the upper Stbd side and PCU on the lower port side. Looks like the lower port side is just the connection into the engine wiring harness and PCU and ECU are one and the same. Doh!
 
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No, they are separate-PCU is above the air filter. 4 bolts, 2 plugs-the bigger plug just needs a flat head screwdriver or similar to open the slide, which then slides left, and will pull away from the PCU as it does so. This won’t make sense reading it now but will (hopefully!) when you look at it a little more closely!

Don’t be alarmed (pun unavoidable) if you do swap the PCUs as you will get alarms when powering up, which you may also have had if you swapped HCU plugs. It’ll prove the point, and all alarms should go when you switch the PCUs back and cycle the ignition switches off/on.

PM me if you want to discuss!
 
Did the PCU swap today and, sure enough, the Port PCU is duff. Seems the cable and actuator jammed, which fried the electronics. I’m now suffering depression about the cost of a replacement unit, but at least I’ve got to the bottom of the problem. Many thanks to everyone for your help and advice with this.
 
dunsnorting said:
Did the PCU swap today and, sure enough, the Port PCU is duff. Seems the cable and actuator jammed, which fried the electronics. I’m now suffering depression about the cost of a replacement unit, but at least I’ve got to the bottom of the problem. Many thanks to everyone for your help and advice with this.
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did you find one, and from where & how much?
 
Yep, got one from Coastal Rides for £489, inc VAT & delivery. Still didn’t work so it cost me another £546 to get the local Volvo specialist to reload and configure the software. It was going to be £1532 for a new one with pre-loaded software, but I would apparently still have to have got someone out to configure the unit. There’s something to be said for manual controls!
 
dunsnorting said:
Yep, got one from Coastal Rides for £489, inc VAT & delivery. Still didn’t work so it cost me another £546 to get the local Volvo specialist to reload and configure the software. It was going to be £1532 for a new one with pre-loaded software, but I would apparently still have to have got someone out to configure the unit. There’s something to be said for manual controls!
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When you say it still didn't work do you mean it had the same fault (not shifting into drive) with the replacement PCU?
 
Hi Phil, the new PCU just threw up a load of fault codes and wouldn’t work anything. Needed the software reset to match up all the serial numbers (HCU etc). One that was done all was well (and I breathed a big sigh of relief!). Regards, Peter
 
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