Volvo Penta 2040 don't charge and no warning lights

[Heikki]

Problems with Volvo Penta MD2040D.

Warning lights don't turn ON anymore when turning starting key to position 1. Also alternator is not charging if engine is started.

All warning lights works if I press test button in instrument panel.

Ignition switch have been replaced. B- wire also replaced and earting point in engine have been cleaned.

Instrument panel model is: "Instrument panel with ignition switch (Alt. 1)"

Any ideas?

 

[Heikki]

In addition:
Tachometer does not work when I start the engine.

 

[Beneteau381]

In addition:
Tachometer does not work when I start the engine.

Expensive diode module gone kaput, usually you get a continuous alarm when this happens.

 

[Heikki]

Thanks for the answer Beneteau381.

Could you open up a bit more, where is this diode located and is it possible test somehow to make sure is that the cause of problem.

 

[VicS]

Problems with Volvo Penta MD2040D.

Warning lights don't turn ON anymore when turning starting key to position 1. Also alternator is not charging if engine is started.

All warning lights works if I press test button in instrument panel.

Ignition switch have been replaced. B- wire also replaced and earting point in engine have been cleaned.

Instrument panel model is: "Instrument panel with ignition switch (Alt. 1)"

Any ideas?

The facts
that the lights come on when tested, that you can start the engine and if you can start it easily, suggesting that the glow plugs are also energised

all suggest that there is power getting to the key switch and to the electronic module when the key is turned ( But it would be prudent to check ............ with a test lamp not with a digital multimeter

The fact that the tacho is not working is because the alternator is not generating

I would check the connections on the D+/61 terminal on the alternator ( there should be a blue/ red wire and a brown wire. It would also be wise to check the wiring all the way from the panel.
These are the initial excitation circuit One comes from the warning light and the other via a resistor from positive terminal of the electronic module. If the warning light circuit is broken I would still expect the alternator to work. If the other circuit was broken I would expect to see the warning light come on.

I would check the alternator brushes. If they are worn it would, I think, explain all the symptoms.

I will attach a diagram ( drawn by another forumite ) of the electronic module which if used in conjunction with the wiring diagram in the owners manual may help you to understand how it should all work.

There is no reason at this stage to suspect the module itself but it can be a troublesome thing

 

[Heikki]

Thanks VicS!

Could you explain more detail that what is the right method to test D+/61 connection and "wiring all the way from the panel".

I have multimeter but I am beginner to use that so could you explain which points I should test and what setting in meter needs to be used (voltage or resistance).

 

[Kinsale373]

Im very interested in this this thread as I have the 2040 also. I have an intermittant issue where the Busser alarm comes on for some time at the start of the season. and then the issue resolves itself for a while. I think it comes after spels of heavy rain so I guess its shorts or electrical leakage caused by dampness. At one point the Oil pressure switch was coming on also. This frightened me so I have a Mechanic do an Oil Pressure test but all was good.

Vics your Diagram is very helpful , Ive never see this before. I don't fully understand the logic of the circuit. Is there a written explanation for its operation ?

Regards, Kinsale 373

 

[seadog30]

Hi

Have you checked all of the connections on the engine to pannel and engine to battery,

I had a similar problem on my 2040 we eventualy found dirty /poor earth/negative connections seemed to upset the logic of the complex control panel.

Good luck

 

[Beneteau381]

Problems with Volvo Penta MD2040D.

Warning lights don't turn ON anymore when turning starting key to position 1. Also alternator is not charging if engine is started.

All warning lights works if I press test button in instrument panel.

Ignition switch have been replaced. B- wire also replaced and earting point in engine have been cleaned.

Instrument panel model is: "Instrument panel with ignition switch (Alt. 1)"

Any ideas?

 

[Beneteau381]

Thinking on, there is a relay system bolted on the rear end of these engines. The relays have a habit of becoming loose in their connectors. Check those out, also the engine loom connectors.

 

[seadog30]

When the engine is running say on fast tickover i.e. approx 1000 RPM what voltage do you have on the engine start battery ? and does the voltage go up if you rev the engine higher

Good luck

 

[VicS]

Thanks VicS!
Could you explain more detail that what is the right method to test D+/61 connection and "wiring all the way from the panel".
I have multimeter but I am beginner to use that so could you explain which points I should test and what setting in meter needs to be used (voltage or resistance).

Check that the connections are good on the D+/61 terminal .. take then off clean then up and refit
Check the multiway connectors at both at the relay box and the control panel end of the wiring loom, It is unlikely that there are bad connections in both BN and B/R but it is certainly not impossible.

It would be interesting to connect a small 12 volt bulb ( about 2 watts ) from the main positive terminal to the 61 terminal in place of the existing wiring. It should light but extinguish once the engine is running. The alternator should start to generate and the tacho read. If the bulb does not light and the alternator does not generate then the alternator is suspect. Check the brushes or get it checked by an auto electrician. If the bulb lights , goes out when the engine is running and the alternator generates the original problem is either in the wiring or the non repairable €400 electronic module .

Im very interested in this this thread as I have the 2040 also. I have an intermittant issue where the Busser alarm comes on for some time at the start of the season. and then the issue resolves itself for a while. I think it comes after spels of heavy rain so I guess its shorts or electrical leakage caused by dampness. At one point the Oil pressure switch was coming on also. This frightened me so I have a Mechanic do an Oil Pressure test but all was good.

Vics your Diagram is very helpful , Ive never see this before. I don't fully understand the logic of the circuit. Is there a written explanation for its operation ?

Regards, Kinsale 373

Sorry I do not have an explanation and not being an electronics engineer I don't think I understand it myself well enough to explain it.

Looking it again I realise that it is actually the circuit for earlier modules than that fitted to the OP's D version MD2040. Applicable I think to the A version and the 2000 series engines but if you can figure it out it gives an insight into the workings of the electronic modules . All quite academic anyway because they are not serviceable ..... merely very expensive to replace.

Thinking on, there is a relay system bolted on the rear end of these engines. The relays have a habit of becoming loose in their connectors. Check those out, also the engine loom connectors.

Yes there are a couple of relays. One in the starter circuit and one in the glow plug circuit. Because the engine starts, and presumably starts easily, there is not likely to be a problem with either of them, The symptoms the OP describes do not suggest a problem with them.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Not sure how a faulty alternator stop the oil and temp warning lamps from working.

I'd start by ensuring the the negative connection to the engine block is good. (yes, i know it was stated that this has been checked, i'd double check it though).

 

[Heikki]

Hi

Have you checked all of the connections on the engine to pannel and engine to battery,

I had a similar problem on my 2040 we eventualy found dirty /poor earth/negative connections seemed to upset the logic of the complex control panel.

Good luck

All connectors have been changed from alternator side. Could you tell more detail that how to check is some connection/wire working?

 

[Heikki]

Thinking on, there is a relay system bolted on the rear end of these engines. The relays have a habit of becoming loose in their connectors. Check those out, also the engine loom connectors.

Relays have been taken away and p were OK.

When the engine is running say on fast tickover i.e. approx 1000 RPM what voltage do you have on the engine start battery ? and does the voltage go up if you rev the engine higher

Good luck

No matter what RPM is in engine voltage in start battery keeps same all the time.

 

[VicS]

Not sure how a faulty alternator stop the oil and temp warning lamps from working.

I'd start by ensuring the the negative connection to the engine block is good. (yes, i know it was stated that this has been checked, i'd double check it though).

If the alternator brushes are worn or there is a problem ( open circuit) with the initial excitation the high temperature warning light wont come on at switch on as it should ............ good point about the low oil pressure warning light though. (Will have to think about that ...............)
The lights work when tested

If the negative connection to the block is bad the engine wont start

But checking the alternator negative connection would be a good idea

 

[VicS]

Relays have been taken away and p were OK.

No matter what RPM is in engine voltage in start battery keeps same all the time.

No reason to have suspected the relays were faulty.

You say the volts remain the same , but what was the reading..... Presumably 12 point something ?

A rested battery will read somewhere between 11.7 ish and 12.7 ish depending on state of charge . 12 .2 ish being about half charged.

The volts will fall while the starter is operated , down to between 9 and 10 perhaps

Once the engine is operating the voltage should quickly recover to its previous level and then as the battery recharges slowly rise to about 14 to 14.4.

 

[Heikki]

Thanks for tips VicS and PaulRainbow.

- Oil pressure light and warning light comes up if I keep key in 1 position about 10 seconds.
- Start battery voltage is normal (between 11,7V and 12,7V)

I will try to make the bulb test and check earth cable one more time.

 

[Heikki]

VicS, one question. You said "main positive terminal to the 61 terminal in place of the existing wiring"

Is "main positive terminal" starting battery + pole OR alternator B+ connection?

 

[PaulRainbow]

If the alternator brushes are worn or there is a problem ( open circuit) with the initial excitation the high temperature warning light wont come on at switch on as it should ............ good point about the low oil pressure warning light though. (Will have to think about that ...............)
The lights work when tested

If the negative connection to the block is bad the engine wont start

But checking the alternator negative connection would be a good idea

Sometimes, with a poor connection, the engine will start but the lower current devices won't work, testing with a multimeter will also lead to misdiagnosis in these cases (as i know, you know).

Wouldn't hurt to connect a cable (jump lead ?) from the battery negative to the alternator.