Volvo Penta 2003 Seized after winter ashore

Be careful putting oil/diesel in to the cylinder/compression chamber, don't put the injector or glow plug back in it could cause damage to the valves or even conrod. Seems unlikely to be siezed. Perhaps fluid already in there? Good luck with resolving it
 
I do suspect water has entered the cylinders over the layup. Is it a fresh water cooled 2003 with heat exchanger or a raw water cooled one? If you watch the engine when you try the starter does it move or kick slightly? If it does the starter is trying to turn a seized engine. Was there coolant/antifreeze run through the system when engine was layed up?
If water has got into the cylinders, especially salt water, the aluminium pistons will swell with corrosion and seize to the bore. All depends how badly the corrosion is, it doesn't take much to seize the engine. I would use diesel down the bores and let it sit there for couple of days, and then try to turn engine with the crankshaft pulley bolt, using a socket and bar, (something the size you would use for car wheel nuts). If the engine begins to turn don't continue and force it round, but turn it one way then the other a few degrees at a time, you don't want to break a ring.
As for getting something in to the bores, you can remove the injectors, but a word of warning, do not try to remove them by twisting them with any great force or you may turn the injectors sleeves that they sit in. Use a slide hammer. Or you could remove the exhaust elbow which allows access to the exhaust valves. If you do this look carefully inside the exhaust manifold for signs of water ingress such as rust stains or salt crystals, there should be only carbon. It's possible the elbow has failed allowing water into the exhaust manifold, cylinder number 3 suffers if this is the case due to the angle the engine sits. With the decompression lever lifted to raise the exhaust valves from their seats it is possible to run diesel into each cylinder from here. Number 3 is easy as the exhaust elbow sits next to it, but you will need a piece of tube and perhaps a squirty oil can to get the diesel to cylinders 1 and 2. Keep the decompression lever raised when trying to turn engine and if it does move the excess diesel will be ejected out of the cylinders with no worries of a hydraulic lock. It is also possible the head gasket could have failed allowing water to dribble into a cylinder, especially if it is raw water cooled.
Hope you get it turning.
 
Batteries were both (domestic and crank) fully charged before launch and reading 12.8 volts this morning. Current is getting to starter as solenoid very hot after multiple attempts to start.
'Solenoid very hot'?
It could be that the contacts in the solenoid are corroded, so dropping a lot of volts here instead of powering the actual starter motor.
Be warned that it's easy to burn out a starter motor trying to start a seized engine. If it doesn't turn in 2 seconds, there is no point holding the start button down any longer.
 
....

The wet exhaust was not disconnected over winter. Would that hjave a significant impact here?
This can have an impact. Water evaporates in the exhaust. Some of it will condense on the exposed engine parts when they are the coldest part of the system.
The engine will probably stop with one exhaust valve open, so over time, enough condensation will occur to seize the piston rings to the bore. Very often a little careful 'persuasion' will break them free and life will go on. But in extreme cases, it's very bad news.
 
I wouldn't go wild with turning the engine by the crankshaft pulley nut. The torque setting is fairly light. (40 Nm [29.5 ft. lbs.])
https://www.petrus-nl.net/watersport/volvo_penta_2001_2002_2003_Workshopmanual.pdf

If the starter motor is accessible I would remove that.
You've then split the two issues.
Bench test the starter with a battery and jump leads to make sure it works. Both via the solenoid or just direct to the starter.

Then you could use a tough screw driver or a pry bar to engage the flywheel teeth to see if levering it against the edge of the starter hole will allow the engine to turn.
 
I wouldn't go wild with turning the engine by the crankshaft pulley nut. The torque setting is fairly light. (40 Nm [29.5 ft. lbs.])
https://www.petrus-nl.net/watersport/volvo_penta_2001_2002_2003_Workshopmanual.pdf

If the starter motor is accessible I would remove that.
You've then split the two issues.
Bench test the starter with a battery and jump leads to make sure it works. Both via the solenoid or just direct to the starter.

Then you could use a tough screw driver or a pry bar to engage the flywheel teeth to see if levering it against the edge of the starter hole will allow the engine to turn.

It might even be possible to loosen the starter motor sufficiently to tilt it away from the ring gear or pull it away from the the bell housing by a couple of inches whilst still earthing the casing. Then blip the starter again. It will be obvious if the solenoid engages and the starter spins up.

Richard
 
Try to turn crankshaft directly - large spanner/socket breaker bar on front lower pully nut.

If no joy, remove injectors and put some diesel into the cylinders. Check first if you need - as I believe you will - special tools or new seals befor you do this. If this is the case it is possible to put diesel in the inlet manifold and gently lever the inlet valves open to let the oil into the cylinder past the valve. If the engine is at TDC make sure you do it gently so not to damage a valve.

I would try this rather than pull the injectors.

With oil in the cylinders leave a couple of days and try the crankshaft nut with the big socket and bar again.

If it now turns, you are past the first hurdle............................
The VP2003 is tricky to reseat injectors. DO not try it yourself is you have not done this kind of thing before. I did! I note that many engineers doing a boat sale survey will not do a compression test on them by removing an injector. To reseat an injector the head has to come off.....
 
The VP2003 is tricky to reseat injectors. DO not try it yourself is you have not done this kind of thing before. I did! I note that many engineers doing a boat sale survey will not do a compression test on them by removing an injector. To reseat an injector the head has to come off.....
And the copper seats are hard to find.

Like others, my first thought would be to decompress and put a spanner on the end of the crankshaft. If you can move it, the engine isn't seized, so the starter and solenoid need investigation. If you can't move it in either direction, then I'd take the head off and see what's happening inside.
 
IIRC no decrompressors on the 2003.
Adjust the inlet valves so they are cracked open and decompress and get oil into the cylinders that way.
No hydraulic lock if the engine is turned, but valve touching pistions must be taken into account.
Softly, softly catchee monkey..............................
 
I've never seen a 2003 without a decompression lever.

Both my 2003's were fitted with them but at the back of my mind I recalled :-
VicS’s #15 in
Volvo 2003 decomp lever
QUOTE
I think the decompression lever was dropped from later engines.
Details from the parts lists:- HAS BEEN REMOVED ON 2003B AND 2003D FROM SN2300059085-
AND ON 2003TB FROM SN2300059107-.
UNQUOTE

Also a cut & paste from one version of my official VP documentation:-
The engines were built in an earlier A version and a later B version. The main changes introduced on the B versions were :

• Modified combustion chamber and 5-hole injector nozzle with no sack hole.
• Changed injector opening pressure.
• New injection pumps (not 2003T) with increased plunger diameter.
• Smoke limiter added to 2003T.
• Decompressor omitted from 2001 and 2003 (was omitted during ongoing production of 2002A).
• Changed cooling system hose run (fresh water system) on 2003T.

Cheers
Bob
 
WD40 is a water repellent not a lubricant. Diesel itself is a better lubricant. If and I do mean if, it is seized then you need oil in the pots somehow. Injectors are a sod to remove but maybe you can get oil in via the air intake. Try GT85 spray

If you can and its still partly seized you may well need head off in which case trying it via removed injectors might be worth risking. If it has rusted that much as to seize then de-seizing it will cause some wear but could keep it going for a bit. Good luck
 
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