Volvo MD22 cam belt change question

[VicS]

Your the man I need to thank, as it was your article which pushed me into chnaging the belt on my own.
I was fortunate that a very kind diesel mechanic lent me is belt tension measuring thingy, touch wood, a yeat later still looking good-
Is thare a recommendation fro when they should be changed

Did you by any chance try the "twist through 90° test" on the belt after setting it with the tension gauge. It would be interesting to know how well they compare.

 

[nigel1]

Did you by any chance try the "twist through 90° test" on the belt after setting it with the tension gauge. It would be interesting to know how well they compare.

Yes I did, and it was pretty close to 90, its how I keep a check on the belt as well, twist through 90 at the mid point of the longest unsupported length of the belt

 

[VicS]

Yes I did, and it was pretty close to 90, its how I keep a check on the belt as well, twist through 90 at the mid point of the longest unsupported length of the belt

Thanks
I think you'll find that they "bed in" a bit during the first hour or so of operation so should appear appear a little slacker once its done that.
Sometimes they give a tension setting for a "used" belt as well as for a new belt.

 

[nigel1]

Thanks
I think you'll find that they "bed in" a bit during the first hour or so of operation so should appear appear a little slacker once its done that.
Sometimes they give a tension setting for a "used" belt as well as for a new belt.

The tool I used for checking the final tension had two set ups, one for a new belt, one for "used"

 

[Playtime]

The tool I used for checking the final tension had two set ups, one for a new belt, one for "used"

The MD22 Workshop Manual includes the following words, if you are using the Volvo tool to check the tension -

"The correct value for a new belt is 425-465 N and for a used belt 340-370 N. If the tension of a used belt has fallen to 270N or below, adjust the belt tension to 340-370 N."

 

[FlyingDutchman]

I changed the belt on my MD22 in 2005 so it has been on for 6 years and approximately 400 engine hours. To get the right tension I used a universal tool like this one

http://www.ccw-tools.com/Sealey-Power-Tools/Vehicle-Service-Tools/Setting-&-Locking-Tools/Cam-Belt-Tension/c-1-4-8-9-2453/

I bought it on ebaai new, but much cheaper, something like 40 quid.
After tensioning I could turn the belt about 45-60 degrees where the inspection hole is.

At the start of each sason I check the belt meticulously for any wear or damage and check the tension using the tool. I have not found any slackening since new.

I am considering changing the belt again next year, but if it looks as new I might leave it on for anothet year or so.

 

[nigel1]

The tension tester from Sealey is the type I borrowed, easy to use.

 

[NormanS]

I changed the belt on my MD22 last winter. (Thanks Stu!) I didn't have a tensioning tool, and when started, the belt was making a whine. I slackened it off a little, and its fine.

 

[nigelmercier]

I bought it on ebaai new, but much cheaper, something like 40 quid...

I just bought one, branded WPI Technic but looks identical to the Bergen. Only problem is that there are no instructions. Anyone got a copy?

 

[Playtime]

Anyone got a copy?

Nigel

PM me - I may be able to help.

 

[volvopaul]

Just done it on my TAMD22 (which is the same engine).

What you need to do is as follows:-

1./ Take the small bolt out of the top front of the cam cover and drop the shaft end of a 6mm drill into the hole.

2./ With a 24mm socket on the crank centre bolt, turn the engine slowly clockwise until the drill drops into the hole in the camshaft and locks it at TDC.

3./ Get another 6mm drill bit, and do the same thing with the crank pin hole (this is on the same side of the engine as the heat exchanger at about 8 o-clock on the flyweel). You may have to wiggle the crank with the socket in order to get the drill to go into the hole.

4./ Now lock-off the injection pump. You will notice that there are some small holes in the pump pulley, and behind 2 of them are threaded holes in the pump casing. Again, you may have to fiddle with the pump pulley a bit, but you should be able to put 2 x M6 srews through the pulley holes and into the pump body.

5./ Remove the old belt.

6./ Check the tnesioner bearings for wear. If they "ring" or feel at all graunchy, replace them. Quinton Hazel do a complete cambelt kit (for the Maestro/Montego/LDV Diesel) for about £100 which has both bearings and a cambelt (much cheaper then going to Volvo).

7./ The cam sprocket has 4 small bolts around the centre. Loosen these, which will let the cam pulley move a little (important to let you take-up the slack without changing the timing).

8./ Fit the new main tensioner bearing, and then fit the new belt making sure that any slack is on the aduster-bearing side. Then fit the adjuster bearing and tighten it so that the belt is at the right tension.

9./ Tighten up the 4 bolts on the camshaft pulley, remove the locking pins (cam, crank, and pump), replace the cambelt cover, water pump pulley and aux belt, and you're done.

Takes about an hour.

Don't panic about doing it, it's quite easy really.

Bob

The kit from Volvo which has the belt and both pulleys is around £68.00 plus vat, I have read all the posts, one procedure no one has mentioned is dial timing the pump after the belt has been fitted, believe me this should be done, all the years wear on the cam plate will alter the pump timing, this is a good time to reset the pump injection timing.

 

[Bobc]

The kit from Volvo which has the belt and both pulleys is around £68.00 plus vat, I have read all the posts, one procedure no one has mentioned is dial timing the pump after the belt has been fitted, believe me this should be done, all the years wear on the cam plate will alter the pump timing, this is a good time to reset the pump injection timing.

That's interesting that you should say that Paul. I did wonder whether the pump timing would need doing, but I was told that it only needed doing if the pump had been moved or taken off. Maybe I'll get someone to do that for me (probably be cheaper than buying the dti).

Bob

 

[Heckler]

The kit from Volvo which has the belt and both pulleys is around £68.00 plus vat, I have read all the posts, one procedure no one has mentioned is dial timing the pump after the belt has been fitted, believe me this should be done, all the years wear on the cam plate will alter the pump timing, this is a good time to reset the pump injection timing.

If it did alter, wear on the cam, hmmm, perhaps a touch retarded. You should qualify the statement a bit, it isnt a major prob and I would bet that in the grand scheme of things it wouldnt really matter, I did mention in my article to slacken off the cam bolts to allow for the movement caused by the new belt (all that is talked about in manuals on changing the belt) dont forget peeps on here can have less knowledge than us and take these off the cuff remarks too seriously!
mendingdieselsfor45yearsstu

 

[VicS]

The kit from Volvo which has the belt and both pulleys is around £68.00 plus vat, I have read all the posts, one procedure no one has mentioned is dial timing the pump after the belt has been fitted, believe me this should be done, all the years wear on the cam plate will alter the pump timing, this is a good time to reset the pump injection timing.

I retimed an injection pump in this way ( luckily I have a suitable dial gauage but its not the sort of thing many people will have) in a high mileage car some time ago.

It was quite a bit out but I cannot be sure if it was due to wear or the efforts of a local garage I'd previously asked to check the timing. ( the latter I suspect )

However re-timing it made no perceptible difference.

 

[nigelmercier]

one procedure no one has mentioned is dial timing the pump after the belt has been fitted...

I'm beginning to wonder if pump timing is the cause of my lack of revs at WOT. Is is possible for the pump to slip a notch on the belt, and what effect would this have?

 

[Heckler]

Look at the pic, count the teeth, (dont forget it turns at half engine speed) and then work out how many degrees a tooth equals. More than a couple of degrees and you would notice it, crackling if it was too far advanced, sounding muted and smokey if retarded (they are smokey anyway!)
If you have used the timing pins and bolts then as you can see, almost impossible to get it a tooth out.
Stu

 

[nigel1]

Just to revive this thread as about to change the timing belt again (last done 4 years ago). Doing a bit of googling on this and on a car forum there was mention of changing the belt on a perkins prima (same engine), and someone mentioned the locking kit was available from Laser Tools. (
Laser 1869 Diesel Timing Kit for Austin/ Rover.
Found on Amazon for £18-95, bit of a bargain when compared to the Volvo Penta price, and hopefully wont have to worry about drill bits breaking
Few years ago I managed to get the proper tension gauge from a US military auction for the sum of $30, new condition, boxed, friend in the USA purchased it on my behalf and then brought it over to the UK on his next visit.

 

[DownWest]

Just to revive this thread as about to change the timing belt again (last done 4 years ago). Doing a bit of googling on this and on a car forum there was mention of changing the belt on a perkins prima (same engine), and someone mentioned the locking kit was available from Laser Tools. (
Laser 1869 Diesel Timing Kit for Austin/ Rover.
Found on Amazon for £18-95, bit of a bargain when compared to the Volvo Penta price, and hopefully wont have to worry about drill bits breaking
Few years ago I managed to get the proper tension gauge from a US military auction for the sum of $30, new condition, boxed, friend in the USA purchased it on my behalf and then brought it over to the UK on his next visit.

Holy thread revival!
I have done this several times on Primas and drills are fine. You would be quite cack handed to bust the shank of a drill. They are not so hard as the cutting end and can actually bend.

Mention of re-using belts: I would not, unless after very short running time. Belt is a few ££, engine?

 

[Beneteau381]

Just to revive this thread as about to change the timing belt again (last done 4 years ago). Doing a bit of googling on this and on a car forum there was mention of changing the belt on a perkins prima (same engine), and someone mentioned the locking kit was available from Laser Tools. (
Laser 1869 Diesel Timing Kit for Austin/ Rover.
Found on Amazon for £18-95, bit of a bargain when compared to the Volvo Penta price, and hopefully wont have to worry about drill bits breaking
Few years ago I managed to get the proper tension gauge from a US military auction for the sum of $30, new condition, boxed, friend in the USA purchased it on my behalf and then brought it over to the UK on his next visit.

I always use 6mm SS bolts, two for the pump, one for the cam, one for the flywheel. The thought of them breaking is never on my radar! Ive done mine twice and several friends engines. The tension, itisnt about tensioning them, its about taking up the slack, very simpistically speaking. Get it too tight and it will sing, too slack is blindingly obvious. I twist them a bit and feel for the sweet spot.