Volvo MD22 cam belt change question

[Peter]

Going to be changing the cam belt on my Volvo MD22. The manual say's to rotate the engine to line up the locating pin holes. But is a bit vague on how to rotate the engine. Can the engine be turned as it is, big socket, or would I have to remove the injectors to allow for easy rotation?

Peter

 

[Playtime]

Going to be changing the cam belt on my Volvo MD22. The manual say's to rotate the engine to line up the locating pin holes. But is a bit vague on how to rotate the engine. Can the engine be turned as it is, big socket, or would I have to remove the injectors to allow for easy rotation?

Peter

You should be able to move it with a big socket (or ring spanner) on the crankshaft pulley. It takes a bit of effort and can only be done slowly, especially when a cylinder gets to TDC.

 

[nigel1]

Going to be changing the cam belt on my Volvo MD22. The manual say's to rotate the engine to line up the locating pin holes. But is a bit vague on how to rotate the engine. Can the engine be turned as it is, big socket, or would I have to remove the injectors to allow for easy rotation?

Peter

Did this last year, turn with socket no problem.
Best to change the tensioner while you are at it

 

[VicS]

there was a wee article on changing the cambelt on an MD22 in the April 2010 PBO.

 

[Juggler7823]

there was a wee article on changing the cambelt on an MD22 in the April 2010 PBO.

PM Skipper_stu. He wrote the PBO article.

 

[VicS]

PM Skipper_stu. He wrote the PBO article.

really

 

[Bobc]

Just done it on my TAMD22 (which is the same engine).

What you need to do is as follows:-

1./ Take the small bolt out of the top front of the cam cover and drop the shaft end of a 6mm drill into the hole.

2./ With a 24mm socket on the crank centre bolt, turn the engine slowly clockwise until the drill drops into the hole in the camshaft and locks it at TDC.

3./ Get another 6mm drill bit, and do the same thing with the crank pin hole (this is on the same side of the engine as the heat exchanger at about 8 o-clock on the flyweel). You may have to wiggle the crank with the socket in order to get the drill to go into the hole.

4./ Now lock-off the injection pump. You will notice that there are some small holes in the pump pulley, and behind 2 of them are threaded holes in the pump casing. Again, you may have to fiddle with the pump pulley a bit, but you should be able to put 2 x M6 srews through the pulley holes and into the pump body.

5./ Remove the old belt.

6./ Check the tnesioner bearings for wear. If they "ring" or feel at all graunchy, replace them. Quinton Hazel do a complete cambelt kit (for the Maestro/Montego/LDV Diesel) for about £100 which has both bearings and a cambelt (much cheaper then going to Volvo).

7./ The cam sprocket has 4 small bolts around the centre. Loosen these, which will let the cam pulley move a little (important to let you take-up the slack without changing the timing).

8./ Fit the new main tensioner bearing, and then fit the new belt making sure that any slack is on the aduster-bearing side. Then fit the adjuster bearing and tighten it so that the belt is at the right tension.

9./ Tighten up the 4 bolts on the camshaft pulley, remove the locking pins (cam, crank, and pump), replace the cambelt cover, water pump pulley and aux belt, and you're done.

Takes about an hour.

Don't panic about doing it, it's quite easy really.

Bob

 

[NormanS]

PM Skipper_stu. He wrote the PBO article.

+1.
And I wouldn't use a drill bit anywhere near it! Drill bits are hard and brittle, and you really don't want fragments of drills in your engine.

 

[Bobc]

+1.
And I wouldn't use a drill bit anywhere near it! Drill bits are hard and brittle, and you really don't want fragments of drills in your engine.

Perhaps you should tell Haynes manuals then, as that's what they recommend.

 

[Seadog17]

Perhaps you should tell Haynes manuals then, as that's what they recommend.

+1 but don't use the drilling end, only the shank

 

[nigelmercier]

8./ Fit the new main tensioner bearing, and then fit the new belt making sure that any slack is on the aduster-bearing side...

... and that you have fitted it the right way round

 

[Jim@sea]

Although I can do mechanical repairs (had a garage once) I have never got involved with timing a diesel engine so I found a "Mobile Mechanic" @ £20 an hour who came out and changed my Cam Belt for me. And he gave me a tip how to change it without altering the timing.
You get a Stanley blade and along the length of the belt cut it in half.
Remove the nearest half and slide on the new one so it touches the remaining half.
Cut off the remaining half of the old one and slid on the rest of the new one.

Haven't tried it myself but dont see why it would not work.

Mind you doing it this way doesn't allow for checking the condition of the cam belt rollers and on my 23 year old boat the top one was on its way out and the bottom one, which appeared to be the original, was in good condition but I tried to get one it was unobtainable.

So what I will do with my new boat (when bought) Have a new cam belt and rollers fitted, then every year for 2 years change the cam-belt the way I mentioned, only going back to having a cam-belt and rollers every 3 years.
Am I wrong.

 

[Bobc]

No need to muck about like that with a Prima. If you put all of the lock pins in, the timing will stay correct.

 

[VicS]

Although I can do mechanical repairs (had a garage once) I have never got involved with timing a diesel engine so I found a "Mobile Mechanic" @ £20 an hour who came out and changed my Cam Belt for me. And he gave me a tip how to change it without altering the timing.
You get a Stanley blade and along the length of the belt cut it in half.
Remove the nearest half and slide on the new one so it touches the remaining half.
Cut off the remaining half of the old one and slid on the rest of the new one.

Haven't tried it myself but dont see why it would not work.

Mind you doing it this way doesn't allow for checking the condition of the cam belt rollers and on my 23 year old boat the top one was on its way out and the bottom one, which appeared to be the original, was in good condition but I tried to get one it was unobtainable.

So what I will do with my new boat (when bought) Have a new cam belt and rollers fitted, then every year for 2 years change the cam-belt the way I mentioned, only going back to having a cam-belt and rollers every 3 years.
Am I wrong.

I think Id find a different mobile mechanic!

Follow the procedure in the manual ( or in Stu Davies article if its a MD22 ) Use locking pins when appropriate or the marks where provided,

If the old one happens to be a tooth out the new one will be too. If you lock the shafts or use the marks you get it timed correctly!

Some (IIRC that includes the MD22) have a fine adjustment on one of the sprockets which enables the timing to be set spot on.

The part that worries me most is adjusting the tension without a tensioning gauge or a substitute.

 

[Heckler]

I think Id find a different mobile mechanic!

Follow the procedure in the manual ( or in Stu Davies article if its a MD22 ) Use locking pins when appropriate or the marks where provided,

If the old one happens to be a tooth out the new one will be too. If you lock the shafts or use the marks you get it timed correctly!

Some (IIRC that includes the MD22) have a fine adjustment on one of the sprockets which enables the timing to be set spot on.

The part that worries me most is adjusting the tension without a tensioning gauge or a substitute.

And there is the rub! When I first came across cam belts (Cortina 1600 and 2 ltr?) and changed them, I found it too easy to overtighten them, they are not like V belts, depending on friction for their drive. Too tight (and it doesnt take much) and they "ring" and make whirring noises! I found out after experimenting that taking up the slack and being able to twist them not quite 180 deg is sufficient, I havent had one break on me yet! I have had them be noisy and have to slacken them a touch though!
Stu
PS It has been v nice this year!

 

[macnorton]

And there is the rub! When I first came across cam belts (Cortina 1600 and 2 ltr?) and changed them, I found it too easy to overtighten them, they are not like V belts, depending on friction for their drive. Too tight (and it doesnt take much) and they "ring" and make whirring noises! I found out after experimenting that taking up the slack and being able to twist them not quite 180 deg is sufficient, I havent had one break on me yet! I have had them be noisy and have to slacken them a touch though!
Stu
PS It has been v nice this year!

Dont you mean 90 degrees? but you must take out any slack first
I also mark the pulleys with Tipex before I start the job and rotate the engine a couple of times by hand after the job is done to be sure the marks line back up and the valves dont touch.
PS/ they only line up every other turn due to different pulley sizes.

 

[Heckler]

Dont you mean 90 degrees? but you must take out any slack first
I also mark the pulleys with Tipex before I start the job and rotate the engine a couple of times by hand after the job is done to be sure the marks line back up and the valves dont touch.
PS/ they only line up every other turn due to different pulley sizes.

Woops, 90 deg it is
Stu

 

[Playtime]

PS It has been v nice this year!

Love it. What we need are more New Year Resolutions.

 

[nigel1]

And there is the rub! When I first came across cam belts (Cortina 1600 and 2 ltr?) and changed them, I found it too easy to overtighten them, they are not like V belts, depending on friction for their drive. Too tight (and it doesnt take much) and they "ring" and make whirring noises! I found out after experimenting that taking up the slack and being able to twist them not quite 180 deg is sufficient, I havent had one break on me yet! I have had them be noisy and have to slacken them a touch though!
Stu
PS It has been v nice this year!

Your the man I need to thank, as it was your article which pushed me into chnaging the belt on my own.
I was fortunate that a very kind diesel mechanic lent me is belt tension measuring thingy, touch wood, a yeat later still looking good-
Is thare a recommendation fro when they should be changed

 

[Heckler]

Your the man I need to thank, as it was your article which pushed me into chnaging the belt on my own.
I was fortunate that a very kind diesel mechanic lent me is belt tension measuring thingy, touch wood, a yeat later still looking good-
Is thare a recommendation fro when they should be changed

Its years and years, one instruction book i read said inspect and change as necessary, mine must have been getting on for 10 years old and wasnt that bad really.
I also read on a landrover site (they like putting the perkins prima/montego/maestro engine in their off roaders becuase it was so frugal) that they were bullet proof, they were 35mm wide and consequently a lot stronger than the skinny things they fir to modern day engines.