Volvo EVC-D faults on 5.7 GiCE-300-R

[1fast35SC]

Hi, I’m new to the forum. Through searches I have seen very knowledgeable responses to questions regarding Volvo EVC faults. I am having troubles and appreciate any help. Thank you.

Boat: 2012 Regal 35 Sports Coupe
Engines: dual Volvo 57GiCE-300-R with stern drives DPS-B1.95
EVC-D

Here is some history of the faults:

10/28/24: Port engine started, but red EVC fault. I shut the engine off and when attempting to restart: “Can Not Start, Gear Engaged” and Port engine hours on the display reads “0.2 Hours”. It should be about 258 hours.
2 faults: 164-253-9 HCU Calibration Memory & 164-232-5 HCU Subnet 1 Control Link.
Cycled batteries on/off and faults went away and engine hours went back to normal. Used boat for about 1 hour.

11/3/24 No faults, normal use of boat for about 2.0 hours (started engines twice)

11/11/24 Turned port key to on position and display did not power up. Turned starboard key to on position and it allowed the port side to power up. Started port engine and got EVC fault port engine, reset battery and fault went away and went on ½ hour ride and anchored.
After anchor, started port engine and get fault (No Steering Port engine). After cycling battery power it allowed steering including joystick, but 3 faults listed:
187-232-2 and 187-232-5 PCU Subnet 1 Control Link, 164-232-5 HCU Subnet Control Link

11/18/24 after unplugging and plugging back in several X2 connectors on the port engine:
4 faults port: 187-232-2 and 187-232-5 PCU Subnet 1 Control Link, 164-232-5 HCU Subnet Control Link, 250-232-5 SAE J1939 Subnet control link

Since then I have performed several Auto Configurations and throttle calibrations. During Auto Calibration the port engine stern drive gauge angle wonders around, but is normal after and when using the boat. And when the engines have sat with battery power to them for any length of time, when the port engine key is turned on, it will not power the display. If the batteries are cycled or if the starboard key is turned on, it will power the port display. The boat can be used and the joystick even works, but I’m getting these faults:
Port - 3 faults: 187-232-5 PCU Subnet 1 Control Link, 164-232-5 HCU Subnet Control Link, 250-232-5 SAE J1939 Subnet control link

 

[jrudge]

I would start with do you have sufficient battery voltage. With low volts all sorts of odd things happen.

 

[1fast35SC]

Thank you jrdudge. I forgot to add that as part of the troubleshooting I replaced both starting batteries even though they tested good under load.

 

[Clash]

I would start with do you have sufficient battery voltage. With low volts all sorts of odd things happen.

I came here to say that. Sounds very like battery issues.

 

[jrudge]

Check the voltage at the engines. You may have a bad earth etc. from a cursory look it does seem to have a decent chance of being volt related.

Check the volts before they are on. When ignition on and when you try to start it.

 

[Andyroonot]

All of the codes relate to comm's issues between the HCU & PCU, with the codes that start '250' relating to the steering unit also have comm's issues. All are connected together via the same circuit and so if one unit is playing up then this will likely trigger these sorts of faults across the board as each unit will be struggling to communicate with the next.

If your engine starts OK even with the faults showing then it's unlikely to be battery related IMO.

Given that you had an initial fault to suggest it couldn't start because it was in gear, I would suggest it's a PCU starting to breakdown; the PCU stores the gear shift logic/calibration and so it stands to reason that this might think it is in gear if it is starting to malfunction internally.

As you have a twin engine you could switch the PCU with the other side and see how it behaves, although bear in mind you will get additional faults when turning it on in this condition as there will be chassis ID mismatches. But if the codes you have already listed then switch to the other side, and/or the stb'd side starts behaving the same then it would perhaps point to your PCU. You will NOT be able to steer or use the Joystick in this condition as the steering will always lock when there are chassis ID conflicts, but starting and stopping should be possible.

 

[1fast35SC]

All of the codes relate to comm's issues between the HCU & PCU, with the codes that start '250' relating to the steering unit also have comm's issues. All are connected together via the same circuit and so if one unit is playing up then this will likely trigger these sorts of faults across the board as each unit will be struggling to communicate with the next.

If your engine starts OK even with the faults showing then it's unlikely to be battery related IMO.

Given that you had an initial fault to suggest it couldn't start because it was in gear, I would suggest it's a PCU starting to breakdown; the PCU stores the gear shift logic/calibration and so it stands to reason that this might think it is in gear if it is starting to malfunction internally.

As you have a twin engine you could switch the PCU with the other side and see how it behaves, although bear in mind you will get additional faults when turning it on in this condition as there will be chassis ID mismatches. But if the codes you have already listed then switch to the other side, and/or the stb'd side starts behaving the same then it would perhaps point to your PCU. You will NOT be able to steer or use the Joystick in this condition as the steering will always lock when there are chassis ID conflicts, but starting and stopping should be possible.

Thank you for the detailed analysis. After swapping PCU's, do you Auto Configure or just try to start the engines?

One update since my earlier posts. I took the boat out yesterday. At this point, it is very consistent, if I cycle the battery power on and off before turning the port key on, it powers up the display without the starboard key turned on and the joystick will work. If I don't cycle the power, the port engine won't power up the display and the starboard key must be turned on first to start both engines. When I start them this way the joystick won't work, but otherwise the engines operate.

I also bought an extra male and female end of those connectors so I can build a splice breakout cable to measure voltages as suggested above.

 

[Andyroonot]

Thank you for the detailed analysis. After swapping PCU's, do you Auto Configure or just try to start the engines?

One update since my earlier posts. I took the boat out yesterday. At this point, it is very consistent, if I cycle the battery power on and off before turning the port key on, it powers up the display without the starboard key turned on and the joystick will work. If I don't cycle the power, the port engine won't power up the display and the starboard key must be turned on first to start both engines. When I start them this way the joystick won't work, but otherwise the engines operate.

I also bought an extra male and female end of those connectors so I can build a splice breakout cable to measure voltages as suggested above.

An auto-config would be worthwhile as it will likely stop some of the codes triggering once you’ve swapped them, but it won’t stop all of them

If you are having this issue even just when you switch the ignition on then the chances are if you swap the faulty component then the problem will move with it, and an auto-config won’t be needed

Just remember to do one final one when everything is swapped back

 

[1fast35SC]

An auto-config would be worthwhile as it will likely stop some of the codes triggering once you’ve swapped them, but it won’t stop all of them

If you are having this issue even just when you switch the ignition on then the chances are if you swap the faulty component then the problem will move with it, and an auto-config won’t be needed

Just remember to do one final one when everything is swapped back

Thanks again. If the fault moves with the PCU swap, can I just order programmed PCU from Volvo and change it out, or does it need Voida technician intervention?

 

[Andyroonot]

Thanks again. If the fault moves with the PCU swap, can I just order programmed PCU from Volvo and change it out, or does it need Voida technician intervention?

Yep, the units can be ordered pre-programmed, as long as you know the actual serial number for the engine in question; I had one once where we ordered a control unit based on the Chassis ID sticker on it but it turned out that it had been overwritten previously so the new unit had the wrong ID

Once fitted it just needs the auto-config & various calibrations completed (lever, power trim, fuel tank level etc) but all can be done yourself if you know the various buttons to push

 

[1fast35SC]

Update. Being wintertime I haven't made it to the boat too much. I haven't had a chance to swap PCU's yet, but I did do the voltage measurements as recommended by the "Checking the EVC bus" section of EVC-D Workshop Manual. Rather than buying the expensive Volvo breakout box, I bought male and female Deutsch connectors and spliced in terminals to measure voltages from the six pins. Here are the results:

1st Scenario: cycled battery power, as a result the port engine display powers up with the port key turned on and the starboard key off. Measured:

Battery Positive V Pins 1 & 3 12.2 V
Backup Battery Positive V Pins 4 & 6 13.2 V
EVC Bus Low Pins 3 & 2 0.15 V 7000 Hz
EVC Bus High Pins 3 & 5 1.1 V 10,000 Hz
Started both engines. Joystick works.

2nd Scenario: after shutting off engines from Scenario #1, turning on the port engine key without the starboard key on: neither engine display powers up. Measured:
Battery Positive V Pins 1 & 3 12.7 V
Backup Battery Positive V Pins 4 & 6 12.7 V
EVC Bus Low Pins 3 & 2 0.24 V 0 Hz
EVC Bus High Pins 3 & 5 0.24 V 0 Hz
Started both engines by powering starboard key first. Joystick does not operate.

3rd Scenario: after shutting off engines from Scenario #2, turning on the port engine key without the starboard key on: neither engine display powers up. Turned starboard key on and both displays power up. Measured:
Battery Positive V Pins 1 & 3 12.4 V
Backup Battery Positive V Pins 4 & 6 12.5 V
EVC Bus Low Pins 3 & 2 0.10 V 5000 Hz
EVC Bus High Pins 3 & 5 0.18 V 8000 Hz
Started both engines. Joystick does not operate.

Please give me your thoughts on the results. According to the manual the High Bus should have 1 Volt and the Low Bus should have 4 Volts. It appears the PCU Low Bus is dead, even when the battery power is cycled and joystick operates. If the PCU is the source of generating this signal, then it looks like the PCU is going bad. Any and all input will be appreciated.

 

[1fast35SC]

Update:

I confirmed the good Starboard PCU measured:
EVC Bus Low Pins 3 & 2 4.0 V 11,000 Hz
EVC Bus High Pins 3 & 5 1.2 V 11,000 Hz
The Low Bus measures 4 volts as it should.

I switched the Port PCU to the Starboard engine and measured:
EVC Bus Low Pins 3 & 2 0.15 V 8000 Hz
EVC Bus High Pins 3 & 5 1.2 V 11,000 Hz

I am 99.9% confident the Port PCU is going bad. I order one and Volvo will program it for my engine serial number and chassis number. BTW, Volvo has a racket selling these for outrageous prices. I did find a parts dealer that will discount it some (Van's Sports Center, Grand Rapids, MI). It is easy to change. Hopefully the Auto Configuration and other calibrations go smoothly.

 

[Seastoke]

Good news ,and well done Andy Roonot.

 

[1fast35SC]

Update: installed the new PCU that was programmed by Volvo at the factory. Worked like a charm. Thank you Andy Roonot!

One last question. Calibrating the stern drive angle was easy, but how do you calibrate the fuel tank if there is a known percentage of fuel in it and you don't have access to an empty tank to set the sender at zero and 100%???

 

[Andyroonot]

Update: installed the new PCU that was programmed by Volvo at the factory. Worked like a charm. Thank you Andy Roonot!

One last question. Calibrating the stern drive angle was easy, but how do you calibrate the fuel tank if there is a known percentage of fuel in it and you don't have access to an empty tank to set the sender at zero and 100%???

As per messages, I suspect you’ll have a US spec sensor which gives a reading of 240 Ohms for empty & 30 Ohms for full. So no easy way of tricking it into thinking it’s empty, unless you can simulate the empty reading but putting a suitable resistor across the wires.

If access isn’t great then you are limited to pumping it out to make the sensor read empty or perhaps rigging up a spare sensor and setting the system to empty and then connecting the original back up that is still in the tank

If you’ve got a European spec sensor then it’s 0 Ohms empty and 180 full, so easy to short the wires and simulate an empty tank reading

 

[1fast35SC]

Final update. I bought a variable resistor and set it to 240 ohms. Temporarily plugged it in at the top rear of the engine where the port tank fuel sender connects to the engine wiring harness and calibrated the tank simulating the empty tank condition. All fixed now. Thanks again Andyrootnot.