Volvo DP-D1 prop seal replacement.

Teddy

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Does anyone know if it is a DIY job to replace one of the prop shaft seals on a Duo Prop DP-D1?

I have lost a small amount of oil and the outer shaft had miles of fishing line wrapped around it.
 

volvopaul

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Some tools req, slide hammer to pull end casing off, tool to push seals in to correct place without damaging them, otherwise you get water in the gearcase.
 

Chris_d

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Procedure cut'n pasted from a previous post:

"You need to take out the two hex bolts behind the round anode, then you can tap the bearing housing out of the leg, I use a paint scraper to get it started about 1/2" back here is a join, then you can get 2 screwdrivers in and work it out of the leg, the thin inner axle stays in the drive.
You pull the bearing housing of the outer axle and then you can remove the seals. The large outer seals just go in with the inner one facing in and the outer seal facing outwards, grease them well and pack the space between them with grease also.
The smaller inner shaft seals have a set of instructions with them, as the seals are different and the inner one only goes one way, grease these the same way.
I use a suitable socket to drift them in, a tip on reassembly is place the plastic bag the seals came in over the large outer shaft before you slide the bearing housing over it, it will protect the new seals from being damaged by the serrations on the outside of the large shaft, then pull it off when its fully on, you will see what I mean when its in front of you.
I always replace the 2 'O' rings behind the bearing carrier at the same time, grease them to aid reaasembly.
Then refit the bearing carrier complete with outer shaft over the long thin inner shaft and tap it home, rotate the outer shaft to make sure the gear teeth mesh or it won't go fully home and refit the twohex bolts.
Fill with around 2.8 ltr of oil and the job is done."
 

DAKA

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Does anyone know if it is a DIY job to replace one of the prop shaft seals on a Duo Prop DP-D1?

I have lost a small amount of oil and the outer shaft had miles of fishing line wrapped around it.

When seals start to go they don't always let much oil out, they suck water in as they cool, result oil level increase, draining a little sample oil from the leg will show signs of water, either milky white oil or clear water if the leg has been dormant for a long while.

Have you seen any evidence of water in your leg ?

From your post I deduce you last changed your own leg oil and it is tricky to get the oil in without air, could the lower oil level be settlement ?
 

Teddy

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When seals start to go they don't always let much oil out, they suck water in as they cool, result oil level increase, draining a little sample oil from the leg will show signs of water, either milky white oil or clear water if the leg has been dormant for a long while.

Have you seen any evidence of water in your leg ?

From your post I deduce you last changed your own leg oil and it is tricky to get the oil in without air, could the lower oil level be settlement ?

Thanks for the excellent information. I agree with you about the possible air problem on filling, although I rechecked the levels the following day just to make sure they weren't overfilled. However, you could be right.

I am now waiting for the weather to settle before draining off to see the full picture.

Chris_d and VolvoPaul, many thanks for the information. If necessary I will have a go. I have managed other repairs ok but drew the line at a cone clutch replacement.
 
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