Volvo D6 Gremlins. I'm stumped – HELP PLS!!

Ooh this sounds like a new problem. Have you put a meter on the ignition switch to prove your 'no power' theory? Eg have you got a separate main breaker for that engine, perhaps on your main dc panel (I'm not familiar with your boat)? If so - have you checked that there is power both sides of that breaker? Does this engine have its own start battery? Have you checked that that battery has charge, and that the connections are good?

In other words, if there's no power, I guess I'd be starting where I know there is no power (ie put a meter on the ignition switch) and then I'd establish where there is power (eg battery) and then work in from both ends with a meter until you find the problem.
 
jimmy_the_builder said:
Ooh this sounds like a new problem. Have you put a meter on the ignition switch to prove your 'no power' theory? Eg have you got a separate main breaker for that engine, perhaps on your main dc panel (I'm not familiar with your boat)? If so - have you checked that there is power both sides of that breaker? Does this engine have its own start battery? Have you checked that that battery has charge, and that the connections are good?

In other words, if there's no power, I guess I'd be starting where I know there is no power (ie put a meter on the ignition switch) and then I'd establish where there is power (eg battery) and then work in from both ends with a meter until you find the problem.
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Remember my comment 'I am no VP person, but if any electronic engine tells you there are no faults believe it and use this as a guide in trouble shooting process.' If you have a problem on switched circuit on any electronic engine it will not flag a fault code..
 
Start at the terminal on the starter to see if you have battery voltage there, if so then it gets a bit complicated as the power for the EVC now goes to a DC/DC voltage stabiliser at the back of the intercooler and then on to the main engine ECU, which then sends it forwards to the key switch via a red wire, this should have 12v. The ign switch then sends 12v out (ignition on) via a red/blue wire to the x4 contact on the HCU module behind the dash somewhere, which should have a green LED lit if its receiving power.
The crank signal goes from the ign switch via a red/yellow wire to the X4 contact, these you can check with a voltmeter. After that you need a Vodia to read whats happening on the data bus side between the HCU,PCU, and ECU, there are only 4 wires linking these 12v & 0v and 2 data.
 
JTB latestarter spannerman. Thanks for all your tips and advice.
I took up all the floorboards and took off several bulkhead panels today and I've managed to reveal the HCU and PCU -not convenient on my boat!
There is a starter battery for port engine, it is full charged and has power. That power definitely goes then to solenoid on battery isolator switch as that's working. I now need to trace it further. Will follow your detailed advice spannerman tomorrow morning, thanks.

I noticed the status green led light flashing on starboard HCU but the port HCU green led status light is not on.
So I assume it is losing power before HCU?

This is a real ball ache! But I would be lost without all your advice, many thanks guys.

Fingers crossed for tomorrow's electrical exploring.
 
Latestarter1 said:
Remember my comment 'I am no VP person, but if any electronic engine tells you there are no faults believe it and use this as a guide in trouble shooting process.' If you have a problem on switched circuit on any electronic engine it will not flag a fault code..
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I got my friend (Crew on the day and also experienced skipper) to check EVC for faults on the day when I was checking other stuff in engine room . When he say no faults according to EVC he must have only checked starboard engine and got that message because when I checked today there is no power at all to EVC on port engine ignition. So it's not even diagnosing port engine.
Looks like electrical supply failure somewhere between isolator and HCU.
 
TommieDee said:
I got my friend (Crew on the day and also experienced skipper) to check EVC for faults on the day when I was checking other stuff in engine room . When he say no faults according to EVC he must have only checked starboard engine and got that message because when I checked today there is no power at all to EVC on port engine ignition. So it's not even diagnosing port engine.
Looks like electrical supply failure somewhere between isolator and HCU.
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I would check the battery cables between the isolator in front of starboard engine and starter motor + terminal and where neg. joins block, could be as simple as cable pulled from crimp terminal.
 
UPDATE and NEW question

Just been down to the boat with a local mechanic and we have confirmed that the port ignition switch works correctly and that it is getting voltage. Power between HCU and ignition switch ok. Getting at ignition switches required company's out, then dash out, then ignition panel out.... What's wrong with quick release systems or even exposed screw heads!

Voltage is Good between the batteries, the isolator, starter motor and all connections seem good.
But port HCU just not lighting up, status light green LED dead.

Question - is it OK to swap starboard HCU to port to test if it works on port circuit? If so, and IF I get power to EVC then on port side, assume I should auto configure first before trying to start or do I not need to if I am just testing and then swapping back?
Assume I need to auto configure when I put it back into starboard circuit?

Many thanks
This is really bl00dy annoying....
 
Uh-oh. Dead HCU. Bad news I'm afraid - if your HCU has failed, then this unfortunately is likely to be very expensive to resolve.

At this point I'd be getting an authorised VP agent involved. Is the boat under warranty? If not - has all the servicing work been done on schedule, and by a VP dealer?
 
TommieDee said:
Question - is it OK to swap starboard HCU to port to test if it works on port circuit? If so, and IF I get power to EVC then on port side, assume I should auto configure first before trying to start or do I not need to if I am just testing and then swapping back?
Assume I need to auto configure when I put it back into starboard circuit?
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I *think* the HCU is coded to the serial number of the engine, so I imagine you would need a Vodia tool to be able to swap the HCU's over. Spannerman will know the definitive answer on this (or speak to your local VP agent).

As above, if it was me, at this point I'd be getting a VP agent involved.
 
jimmy_the_builder said:
I *think* the HCU is coded to the serial number of the engine, so I imagine you would need a Vodia tool to be able to swap the HCU's over. Spannerman will know the definitive answer on this (or speak to your local VP agent).

As above, if it was me, at this point I'd be getting a VP agent involved.
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Oh dear....... 2006 so well out of warranty. Yes serviced but half time by VP guy half the time by me. Sadly with work pressures, although I am onboard cleaning and checking every 2-3 weeks throughout the year, I havent put many hours on her in my 5 years of ownership. But always keep engine room, clean, dry, warm in winter.

By coincidence, just called the VP guy here and then read your post.

will keep you posted....
 
Yes the HCU, PCU and ECU are electronically coded to each other for each engine, you can swap them but you will get a fault code saying incompatible software, can't remember if an autoconfig is neccessary or will work, but the green LED should light up showing that its getting power and communicating.
If you get a light then its the HCU thats died, if not then the problem is deeper in the system, and really needs a Vodia guy onboard.
 
spannerman said:
Yes the HCU, PCU and ECU are electronically coded to each other for each engine, you can swap them but you will get a fault code saying incompatible software, can't remember if an autoconfig is neccessary or will work, but the green LED should light up showing that its getting power and communicating.
If you get a light then its the HCU thats died, if not then the problem is deeper in the system, and really needs a Vodia guy onboard.
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Thanks Spannerman, will try that. So if I get a light when I put the starboard unit which is currently working into the port circuit, then Port HCU is bust.

Waiting for VP guy to come down in a few days although they dont have much experience of VP engines and not the D6s as tiny market here and only a couple of boats in IOM with newish (2000 onwards) VP engines.

I cant seem to find a HCU part online. i assume you can buy them (if I need to replace).

Has anyone ever had HCU repaired? Mechanic I met today sent a Yanmar one off to engineer in UK who repaired it apparently (fraction of cost of new one).

Tks
tommiedee
 
TommieDee said:
Thanks Spannerman, will try that. So if I get a light when I put the starboard unit which is currently working into the port circuit, then Port HCU is bust.

Waiting for VP guy to come down in a few days although they dont have much experience of VP engines and not the D6s as tiny market here and only a couple of boats in IOM with newish (2000 onwards) VP engines.

I cant seem to find a HCU part online. i assume you can buy them (if I need to replace).

Has anyone ever had HCU repaired? Mechanic I met today sent a Yanmar one off to engineer in UK who repaired it apparently (fraction of cost of new one).

Tks
tommiedee
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Is it part #18 on this diagram?

25388.jpg


https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746210-30-8819.aspx
 
Yes part 18, you can buy them either preloaded with your current Version of software or empty, then the local VP man has to download the software from VP into a Vodia and go to the boat and download into the new HCU, which usually goes OK but from experience can sometimes take several attempts to download. So its a gamble on paying a bit more for a preloaded one which is then plug and play or risking the VP man having problems and his labour costs mounting up. If he has to travel some distance and there is a risk he may have to visit more than once I'd go with the preloaded HCU
 
Just a thought, there are companies that can repair all sorts of electronics. The HCU I suspect is simply a truck part. You say you dont use it much so time is on your side. It is worth some Google time as a new HCU ( if anything like car ECUs) will be silly money.
 
I've just read this post front to back, I had a similar problem which turned out to be the valeters fault, he simply had knocked out the plug into the engine which gave a non start, I'd check everything on the engine from dash and power supply etc, has the builder done any mods to power supply to engines at all? As said start swapping modules about, the engineer should do this to eliminate possible probs with each component .
 
Yes Jimmy that's it.
I got a quote last night from coastalrides 500 plus vat. They said "This will work , start your engine but will give a chassis conflict error , until cleared with a Vodia tool by Volvo dealer"

Spannerman - not sure if that means software is pre loaded but just need vodia to clear conflict or if no software at all.

jrudge- I have googled ECU repairs but can't find anything obvious. Waiting for mechanic here to come back with name of company he used for yanmar ECU repair.

Volvopaul - thanks. What "plug" was out? The main electronics
Plug into top of engine? All my checks show all connectors and battery terminals on engine fine. I unplugged connectors plugged them back in, all spotlessly clean and shiny. I also checked the relay switch on the engine electronics, swapped over between engines and it is fine. Local VP dealer here (not been down to boat yet) "thought" there was a blade fuse on top of engine - I couldn't find one. Is there? How do you fancy a work trip to the IOM if I can't fix this?! Not as glamorous as your trips to mallorca but almost! I don't believe Broom made any alterations but I'm waiting to hear back from them.

Gonna swap over HCUs and see if port one works in starboard circuit and vice versa tomorrow

Tks all again for your help and patience!
Tommiedee
 
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