Volvo D4-260 - changing the impeller

kennyh

kennyh

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Hi all

I'm going to do an oil/filter change on my D4-260 and I should probably do an impeller change at the same time.

I've not done an impeller change before (on this type of engine - plenty on outboards), and I want to make sure I don't sink my boat in the process (it's on the water all year).

I understand I would need to disconnect the water hose from the pump assembly, but that is most likely below the water line and thus I will have some water incursion.

So, how do I stop the water flowing in?

- a clamp / blocks on the hose?
- a wooden bung in the hose end?
- some thing else

Or have I got this all wrong and need to go about it another way (such as getting the boat hauled)?

And other top tips on impeller removal?

Cheers
Kenny
 
More experienced people will come along soon to augment this but you have a seacock for the raw water intake. Close this to keep the boat from sinking.

An impeller puller such as this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jabsco-50070-0040-SMALL-IMPELLER-PULLER-/400487706557?hash=item5d3eed6fbd will help in getting the old one out. Be sure to get the correct size, however as Jabsco do at least two sizes of pullers. A suitable sized pliers will also help.

When putting the new one in, one tip is to squeeze the new impeller's vanes together using a cable tie. This makes it a lot easier to insert it into the housing. Remember of course to remove tie, once it's half way in. Use wd40 or equivalent for lubrication. And remember to change the o-ring that is embedded into the lid and should come with the new impeller.

This is more or less what I just did with my generator's impeller.

Edit: It worth consider doing the fuel and air-filters at the same time and depending on the hours, etc. maybe ask a professional to have a look.
 
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Just wondering - do you not have boat lifted out to check the UJ bellows every two years, change anodes, clean the hull and anti foul ?
 
Disconnect the hose from the seawater pump and bend it upwards above the water line and tie it out of the way, you will then be able to remove the backplate and change the impellor at your leisure, then refit hose, job done, you will only get a few cupfulls of water in the boat so no danger of it sinking. Just make sure the hose is securely fastened above the water line if you have to go out of the boat.
Just make sure the hose isn't tied to the servo pump hose or battery cables before you start so you can swing it up without delay.
 
To answer Beejay's question...

I do have the boat hauled to replace the bellows; I had the boat out last March for a full leg service and replacement of leaking drive hoses.

I also changed skin fittings and seacocks.

I didn't however change the impeller. So nows the time!
 
spannerman said:
Disconnect the hose from the seawater pump and bend it upwards above the water line and tie it out of the way, you will then be able to remove the backplate and change the impellor at your leisure, then refit hose, job done, you will only get a few cupfulls of water in the boat so no danger of it sinking. Just make sure the hose is securely fastened above the water line if you have to go out of the boat.
Just make sure the hose isn't tied to the servo pump hose or battery cables before you start so you can swing it up without delay.
Click to expand...

Thanks Spannerman

Doesn't sound too difficult. I'll give that a go.
 
I have changed a lot of impellers during the years and have never needed a puller. Of course it would be easier but :)
My tip is to use some kind of soap. If you remove a hose just poor some soap down into the housing and spin around the engine so the soap reaches all over. Or just put soap from the outside of the housing.
What normally makes the impeller hard to pull out is that the wings grips the housing. This soap procedure makes the impeller come out easy.
Use screwdrivers to bend the impeller out or a plier to pull it out. Be careful not to damage the housing.
Befor removing the old impeller make sure to notice in what way the wings are bent. Be sure to install the new impeller with the wings in the same way.
When putting the new one in put a little grease on the shaft. Do not use grease on the impeller rubber parts. Use something that decompose in water. Soap is good for the job.
If the lid show a lot wear(shouldn't be any problem on this new engine). Instead of replacing the lid sometimes it works to flip the lid and use the other side of. Then you have a "lid life span" for free :)
 
kennyh said:
To answer Beejay's question...

I do have the boat hauled to replace the bellows; I had the boat out last March for a full leg service and replacement of leaking drive hoses.

I also changed skin fittings and seacocks.

I didn't however change the impeller. So nows the time!
Click to expand...

An interesting point on lifting. We had our first service in July last year, and we were restricted to main dealer £ervicing for warranty purposes.

One dealers quote was cheaper and the reason was they could service the engine in the water. However another insisted.on a lift as they always change the oil in the leg, even on a 100hr service . I contacted a 3rd and they recommended a leg oil change. So a range of advice

We elected for a lift and leg oil change as that was the consensus of non main dealer engineers also. Also, our first 10 hours or so was spent practicing marina manoeuvres so in and.out of gear a lot.

As mentioned above I.would have thought an annual lift for anodes etc would be required anyway?
 
Andy Bav said:
An interesting point on lifting. We had our first service in July last year, and we were restricted to main dealer £ervicing for warranty purposes.

One dealers quote was cheaper and the reason was they could service the engine in the water. However another insisted.on a lift as they always change the oil in the leg, even on a 100hr service . I contacted a 3rd and they recommended a leg oil change. So a range of advice

We elected for a lift and leg oil change as that was the consensus of non main dealer engineers also. Also, our first 10 hours or so was spent practicing marina manoeuvres so in and.out of gear a lot.

As mentioned above I.would have thought an annual lift for anodes etc would be required anyway?
Click to expand...

My boat sits in fresh water and I use Magnesium anodes which last for ages (on my boat at least). So a lift out for anodes change every year is not necessary.

Besides, I can change the anodes on the drive without a lift out (but of course I do get wet in the process)!
 
Rickard said:
I have changed a lot of impellers during the years and have never needed a puller. Of course it would be easier but :)
My tip is to use some kind of soap. If you remove a hose just poor some soap down into the housing and spin around the engine so the soap reaches all over. Or just put soap from the outside of the housing.
What normally makes the impeller hard to pull out is that the wings grips the housing. This soap procedure makes the impeller come out easy.
Use screwdrivers to bend the impeller out or a plier to pull it out. Be careful not to damage the housing.
Befor removing the old impeller make sure to notice in what way the wings are bent. Be sure to install the new impeller with the wings in the same way.
When putting the new one in put a little grease on the shaft. Do not use grease on the impeller rubber parts. Use something that decompose in water. Soap is good for the job.
If the lid show a lot wear(shouldn't be any problem on this new engine). Instead of replacing the lid sometimes it works to flip the lid and use the other side of. Then you have a "lid life span" for free :)
Click to expand...

Hi Rickard

A very pedantic question here.....

What type of soap do you use? Do you mean detergent (washing up liquid etc) or do you mean soap, such as hand soap?

I'm just trying to make sure I use the most effective method here........ Best to get it right first time!

Thanks.
 
kennyh said:
Hi Rickard

A very pedantic question here.....

What type of soap do you use? Do you mean detergent (washing up liquid etc) or do you mean soap, such as hand soap?

I'm just trying to make sure I use the most effective method here........ Best to get it right first time!

Thanks.
Click to expand...



Any hand soap will do the work
As I change a lot of impellers I have a oil can with soap so I easily get the soap on to the impeller when the lid is removed. Then I don´t have to remove any hose to poor down soap in the impeller housing
 
Thanks Rickard

Now venturing slightly off topic - I'm going to do a service on my D4 at the weekend (I've done services on Mercruisers and outboards before - but a first time on a Volvo D4).

I'm going to change the coolant and I'm wondering the best way to drain the old coolant.

Can anyone advise on where the drain point is / the process?
 
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Sorry can't answer your latest question but I do have two additional tips to chip in:-

1. If you have a piston ring compressor in your garage (like mine, which spends years sitting around doing nothing) it's the perfect tool for fitting new impellers. Much better than cable ties, although they will work OK if you don't have one. Mine now lives on the boat instead of in the garage, as it'll be used more often there.
2. You can use waterproof grease on both the splines / shaft and on the tips and end of the impeller vanes. It doesn't harm the rubber, and does help with priming the pump on start up, especially if the impeller has been changed when the boat was out of the water. It also prolongs the time it can run dry before damage occurs if you do have problems priming it. Don't over-grease of course, but a smear especially on the end faces is very helpful and is more effective than e.g fairy liquid. Ask me how I know this...
 
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