Volvo 2003 Engine anode

[AntarcticPilot]

I use a half inch socket extension bar.This fits on the end of the brass plug( I know yours was deformed) and extends out far enough to get a spanner on the other end.If I could find a socket adapter with holes in both ends I could use my socket arm as well.

First thing I tried - the head was too mangled, with not enough of the original square left. With a nice fresh square, a 13mm spanner was a good fit and worked fine to tighten the plug. Given that this is a Volvo, I don't know what size the square actually is - a non-metric size like 1/2" seems a bit out of keeping with the metric sizes used elsewhere.

 

[RIBW]

I finally shifted the recalcitrant engine anode. The successful solution was the Irwin Bolt-Grips; they worked simply and VERY efficiently.

Just a quick 'thank you' for your 2011 posting. It helped us enormously. We were bequeathed a horribly rounded anode holder but the Irwin aided by a little light hammering to help it bite into the brass shifted it with relatively ease. We now have a perfectly square new end to work with in future. As stated by others, a 1/2" socket drive works well. We also worked out why the single 1/2" square to hex (allen key) socket was in the 'special bits' box.

Cheers again
Bob

 

[Nina Lucia]

Just a thought - your engine is seawater cooled is it? I ask because the freshwater cooled engine doesn't have an anode, even though it has a brass plug, and this isn't clear in the Volvo literature (guess how I found out!).

Thank you! We have Volvo 2003T freshwater cooled engine, I just couldn't find any information about pencil anode for this engine. I feel much better now

 

[VicS]

Thank you! We have Volvo 2003T freshwater cooled engine, I just couldn't find any information about pencil anode for this engine. I feel much better now

Change the coolant* at least once every 2 years and your cooing system will be protected against corrosion ( and freezing).
(*50% conventional antifreeze or Volvo "green" )

 

[PeterBoater]

There seems to be confusion between zinc/aluminium/magnesium anodes to protect against galvanic corrosion (an electrical action between dissimilar metals in either sea or fresh water) and corrosion inhibitors in fresh water coolant to protect against common or garden corrosion (rust). Each of the two protection methods does not protect against the other sort of corrosion.

As said above, whether there are anodes (usually pencil) in an engine depends on what metals are used in its construction, and perhaps on the manufacturer's whim. My previous Yanmar engines had none but my present Yanmars have four in each engine; some other Yanmars have five. It sounds like Volvos have similar variations.

 

[Nina Lucia]

Change the coolant* at least once every 2 years and your cooing system will be protected against corrosion ( and freezing).
(*50% conventional antifreeze or Volvo "green" )

Thanks VicS, I replaced my antifreeze about six months ago

 

[QBhoy]

Change the coolant* at least once every 2 years and your cooing system will be protected against corrosion ( and freezing).
(*50% conventional antifreeze or Volvo "green" )

Is the anode not on the raw water side ?

 

[VicS]

Is the anode not on the raw water side ?

No there is no anode in the raw water side. The design and materials used in the construction of the VP heat exchanger make it unnecessary.
Other engine makes often do have an anode in the raw water side.

 

[QBhoy]

No there is no anode in the raw water side. The design and materials used in the construction of the VP heat exchanger make it unnecessary.
Other engine makes often do have an anode in the raw water side.

Ah. Got you. Fair play. I maybe presumed it was like most of the other larger VP’s with the pencil anode in the raw system…like in a reverse gear cooler.
As an example. Strange having one in the closed cooling system.