Varnish over oil

[Captain Coochie]

Has anyone tried this method of finish and how well did it last ? I am doing a test peice of Iroko with pure linseed oil and then varnish mixed with pure turps . I'm only on the second coat of varnish and it looks like it's had alot more .

 

[mormargh]

Tried but failed. Redid the following season with Endeavour oil but didn't like that much either. Have now gone for the natural look! Be interested in the results. Got a picture?

 

[Captain Coochie]

Failed in what way? I'll take a piccy tomorrow , if i remember .

 

[ebbtide]

Sikkens Natural varnish, a satin finish for mahogany, iroko and teak. I'll never go back!

 

[mormargh]

Ended up hazy despite looking OK to start with. No idea why I'm afraid, but my artistic ability won't have helped.

 

[DinghyMan]

Yes, used to do it a lot for beech dummies piccy and frames, also done my wooden cleats soaked in Organ Oil and then varnished after allowing a good while to dry out.

It is probably very similar to using something like a sanding sealer/shellac and then varnishing over that in that you get a very good finish. Advantage with varnish over oil is that where the varnish wears off the oil will them protect the wood anyway.

 

[Poignard]

I used Varnol and Deks Olje for years on my coachroof [mahogany]. I eventually decided it was more work than varnishing so I rubbed it down and started using Epifanes varnish. The dried oils provided an excellent primer for the varnish as they had soaked into all the cracks and joints and sealed them so moisture can't get in.

 

[Captain Coochie]

That was my theory . I've heard of it used in cabinet making but wondered if anyone had taken the idea to boats .

 

[srp]

I've often used Deks Olje followed by varnish. Traditional varnish has a lot of linseed oil content in it as far as I know, so it should be ok. Presumably you used boiled not raw? Apart from anything else, the smell of linseed oil and pure turpentine (not the white spirit crap) takes a bit of beating. It makes my workshop smell like a workshop.

 

[DinghyMan]

I decided to try it as it had stood up well to industrial use it should be a good test trying it on my cleats this year. One is an old unknown hardwood one and one a new bullet wood one so will see how they wear this year.

My theory was that as the oil has already soaked into the wood any wear through the varnish would not be as much of a problem as just varnish over wood as the wood is already protected in its own right.

I had seen it used for some hardwood bathroom items and a shower tray insert and thought that if it could hold up to shower usage it should work OK on the boat.

Problem I've got is that SWMBO is now interested in wooden boats and spent a good while looking round one yesterday so when we change it may be for a wooden boat next time. At least she knows what hard work woodwork and finishing can be and is not worried about helping so thats a bonus.

 

[Captain Coochie]

No , i only had raw linseed and couldnt be bothered to walk five mins to the shop so i used that /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif As i said it's a test and the results are what they are .

 

[Lakesailor]

Danish Oil is a nice, if rather transient, finish, but it does say on the tin "also for use as a primer".

 

[Captain Coochie]

Sorry , not the best pic . It's had five coats of varnish mixed with turps now , i gave my mast seven coats and it wasnt looking this good .

 

[Billjratt]

I'm experimenting with Danish oil, pure tung oil, and varnish (Epifanes) on various interior and exterior bits. So far, the oily bits don't stand up to wear, but just a wipe restores the look. Unfortunately, previous owners have sanded away most of my boat, so I have to be gentle and try to preserve what's left.