Varnish for interior woodwork

[AntarcticPilot]

I am slowly re-finishing some of the interior woodwork on my Moody 31. This is mahogany (I think) faced ply; the veneer is thick, so I am not having any problems stripping and sanding down to good wood.

However, one of the major reasons for doing this is that over the years, black stains have marked the wood. I think these are mould from where the varnish has allowed a small amount of water through.

Well, I have scraped the old varnish off and sanded the veneer back to clean wood, but would like to use a finish that won't mark in the same manner. I was trying to find a mould-resistant varnish, but mould-resistance doesn't seem to be on the list of properties of most yacht varnishes, despite being commonplace for domestic paints that work in much less arduous conditions!

So, can anyone suggest a varnish that meets the following criteria:

1. Clear (the wood is dark; I don't want to darken it any more than necessary)
2. Satin finish, NOT gloss
3. Mould resistant
4. Only needs to be suitable for interior use
5. Needs to be suitable for use in the environment of a yacht - that is, flexible and hard-wearing
6. Mustn't break the bank - think B&Q rather than Royal Yacht Squadron!

 

[sailorman]

I have had good results on Teak with Ronseal clear & satin varnish`s

I am slowly re-finishing some of the interior woodwork on my Moody 31. This is mahogany (I think) faced ply; the veneer is thick, so I am not having any problems stripping and sanding down to good wood.

However, one of the major reasons for doing this is that over the years, black stains have marked the wood. I think these are mould from where the varnish has allowed a small amount of water through.

Well, I have scraped the old varnish off and sanded the veneer back to clean wood, but would like to use a finish that won't mark in the same manner. I was trying to find a mould-resistant varnish, but mould-resistance doesn't seem to be on the list of properties of most yacht varnishes, despite being commonplace for domestic paints that work in much less arduous conditions!

So, can anyone suggest a varnish that meets the following criteria:

1. Clear (the wood is dark; I don't want to darken it any more than necessary)
2. Satin finish, NOT gloss
3. Mould resistant
4. Only needs to be suitable for interior use
5. Needs to be suitable for use in the environment of a yacht - that is, flexible and hard-wearing
6. Mustn't break the bank - think B&Q rather than Royal Yacht Squadron!

 

[ianj99]

I am slowly re-finishing some of the interior woodwork on my Moody 31. This is mahogany (I think) faced ply; the veneer is thick, so I am not having any problems stripping and sanding down to good wood.

However, one of the major reasons for doing this is that over the years, black stains have marked the wood. I think these are mould from where the varnish has allowed a small amount of water through.

Well, I have scraped the old varnish off and sanded the veneer back to clean wood, but would like to use a finish that won't mark in the same manner. I was trying to find a mould-resistant varnish, but mould-resistance doesn't seem to be on the list of properties of most yacht varnishes, despite being commonplace for domestic paints that work in much less arduous conditions!

So, can anyone suggest a varnish that meets the following criteria:

1. Clear (the wood is dark; I don't want to darken it any more than necessary)
2. Satin finish, NOT gloss
3. Mould resistant
4. Only needs to be suitable for interior use
5. Needs to be suitable for use in the environment of a yacht - that is, flexible and hard-wearing
6. Mustn't break the bank - think B&Q rather than Royal Yacht Squadron!

Try Skippers clear satin water based varnish - I mentioned it in another thread, but have also used it in the wheelhouse and saloon. No odour, easy to apply, can't comment on the mould resistance as don't have that problem.

Ronseal also do a clear water based version.

 

[chwarae]

Ronseal matt and satin are very good. Just check to ensure there's no wax left on the wood in case it's previously been dressed with wax.
A good finish can be achieved with a couple of coats of shellac and clear wax. Shellac dries quickly so a couple of coats can be applied in an afternoon. It's easy to maintain as a light rub with wax tidies up any scratches etc.
Fiddes or Ronseal do clear/ neutral quality waxes.
Neither should darken the wood.
H.

 

[Tranona]

Another vote for Ronseal satin. Used it on the inside of a wooden boat nearly 20 years ago and still good. No problems with damp. Used extensively in the house as well including teak and holly bathroom flooring.

 

[billcowan]

Dont use the water based stuff, its impossible to remove when it quite soon goes horrible if it gets wet.

Better use danish oil, expensive but goes a long long way, easy to re-do later, can be sanded and scraped easily for touch ups.

There is also Bourne Seal etc, which you can rub on with a rag

 

[DickB]

Blakes (I think) Schooner varnish. I tried the quick dry stuff but it was rubbish. This takes an age to dry but the result is excellent. I did only 4 coats on my table, three gloss and the final one satin. Very pleased with the result. The gloss plus one satin was based on advice from an old "sage" on the Blakes stand at LBS. Good advice!!! BTW I still get tiny flecks of dust and haven't worked out how to smoth the surface off yet...

cheers,

Dick

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Dont use the water based stuff, its impossible to remove when it quite soon goes horrible if it gets wet.

Better use danish oil, expensive but goes a long long way, easy to re-do later, can be sanded and scraped easily for touch ups.

There is also Bourne Seal etc, which you can rub on with a rag

Have now switched to Danish Wood Oil both inside and out, including tufnol blocks etc.

Very easy to top up and and apply using a rag and any old dry weather.

I found it does take courage to use it below though. Looks great on furniture at home too.

 

[sailorman]

Have now switched to Danish Wood Oil both inside and out, including tufnol blocks etc.

Very easy to top up and and apply using a rag and any old dry weather.

I found it does take courage to use it below though. Looks great on furniture at home too.

be very careful when using / disposing of rag soaked in any vegetable oil
soak it it water & lay flat outside

 

[northwind]

Personally I use this stuff..Osmo Polyx

Its intended for flooring, but is used alot in the Furniture trade, as its quick and easy to apply / touch up, and is hard as nails when dry.

I tend to finish it with Wax and Wirewool to buff it to the desired flat satin sheen.

 

[ianj99]

Dont use the water based stuff, its impossible to remove when it quite soon goes horrible if it gets wet.

Better use danish oil, expensive but goes a long long way, easy to re-do later, can be sanded and scraped easily for touch ups.

There is also Bourne Seal etc, which you can rub on with a rag

Never had any probs with Ronseal or Skippers inside or out on my boat.

I tried various teak oils but wasn't impressed.

 

[ianat182]

Bought some WILKO varnish from Wilkinsons today described as Exterior Grade varnish (@ £8.97 litre), to cover some light coloured exterior grade ply. The varnish leaves a gloss finish and a good clear coat that only slightly darkened the wood; they also had some Yacht Varnish at the same price for a silk finish, this will be next trial on some new hatch boards in the making. The varnish dried quickly even in todays temperature and looks good, so may use some more of this instead for a glossy finish.

ianat182

 

[pyrojames]

be very careful when using / disposing of rag soaked in any vegetable oil
soak it it water & lay flat outside

Good advice and includes Danish Oil....

 

[sailorman]

Good advice and includes Danish Oil....

Thats how Offshore Yachts factory got raised to the ground by teak oil rags in a bin

 

[ianat182]

Owatrol rags also have this combustive property.



ianat182

 

[sailorman]

Owatrol rags also have this combustive property.



ianat182

a building protect i was involved in had clay tiles ( fired earth ) on internal floors, these had linsed oil applied to them. i told the tiler twats 3 times about the waste rags.
after i left they burnt the garage down

 

[LONG_KEELER]

be very careful when using / disposing of rag soaked in any vegetable oil
soak it it water & lay flat outside

Thanks for the tip.

Have vaguely heard about spontaneous combustion, but your examples prove that it exists. Glad that their was no loss of life.

Good stuff this forum.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

Thanks for the tip.

Have vaguely heard about spontaneous combustion, but your examples prove that it exists. Glad that their was no loss of life.

Good stuff this forum.

A useful reminder! Dad had an Offshore Yachts Halcyon 27, so I remember hearing about the fire when I were a lad. But I had forgotten about it, and it is a good reminder of the danger.

 

[Laurie]

.....Deks Olje?

 

[doug748]

Like you, I was a bit fed up with the way conventional varnishes allow the timber to discolour beneath the finish. It can be very tricky to get rid of the black streaks.

I used Cetol Novatech in my forecabin a few years ago. 1 coat with Danish oil applied over the top, refreshed each year with another application of oil. This regime is still at the experimental stage but it looks ok, esp since I never did really get rid of all the black.

The drawback is, that even the light pine, Cetol will darken the finish down a bit. Might be worth a try, esp if you use the product elsewhere on the boat.