Vancouver 32 (1986) hull problems and rudder problems

Bill G

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I had the bottom paint soda-blasted off of the hull of my 1986 Vancouver 32 "Rincewind" last week and it exposed a bottom coating that my boatyard (in Maryland, USA) has not seen before. Can anyone give me some insight into what this is? (see link for pictures.) I am going to need to decide how to proceed from here. Do I need to completely strip off this coating? Or can I use an epoxy fairing compound to smooth out the bottom? Any advice?
Photos are here - https://plus.google.com/photos/11427...KzMgqj-jdub9QE

I think that I will try to find a contractor to strip (plane) the coating down to bare fiberglass. I will then apply a barrier coat.

I have taken the rudder to my house. I have ground off the blue coating down to bare fiberglass (a really dirty job!) and found several spots where the rudder skin had failed and allowed water penetration. Also, the aft edge has numerous gaps. The fiberglass shell is 1/4" on the in-water portion of the rudder and 3/8 inch above the water where the hull connectors are and the tiller connects. The top 1mm of the fiberglass below the waterline has numerous wet spots that I ground down to solid glass. After drilling several holes through the rudder, I have found that the foam core is really wet and about 15% of the interior of the rudder below the waterline is a void - no foam core at all - just hollow. I am planning on taking a large portion of one side of the rudder skin off so that I can remove the wet foam. After inspecting the interior, I hope to be able to replace the foam (any recommendations on weight of foam?) and then replace the removed skin and add a layer of glass to the area below the waterline and add additional glass on the leading edge and the aft edge. I will then barrier coat the rudder below the waterline.

I welcome any advice, suggestions, or words of encouragement.
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s/v Rincewind

“To achieve great things, two things are needed; a plan, and not quite enough time.”

--Leonard Bernstein
 

TradewindSailor

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Your photo link doesn't work.

The rudder faces will be joined down the edges .... and should be separated that way. The important point is that the internal stainless steel structure is still in good condition: no crevice corrosion or cracks ..... and that structure can impart it's load onto the rudder faces.

If you use say 60-80 kg/m3 PVC foam would probably do the job .... but it rather depends on the internal framework. If you get a good fit with the frame and rudder face moulding, you can use a filled epoxy resin to glue it back together again and re-tape the edges.

Don't use an expanding foam as they tend to soak up water over time.

Whether this is all you need to do is rather dependent on what you find ...... Import some photos into the forum site
 

Birdseye

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I would second the idea of splitting the rudder down the seam - its the only way you would be able to get at all areas.

My rudder is wet too and drilling holes has revealed some inner filling thats like fine wet oats or broken down paper. And some rusty water! Guess I will have to do the job next winter.

I did get a lot of water out by connecting a pela oil removal pump thingy to the lowest of the holes I drilled and then pumping. Bit pointless really without doing something about the leaks which are round the rudder shaft.
 

Bill G

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I opened up the rudder today and remove the soaked foam. Some pictures are here (hopefully this link will work) -
https://plus.google.com/photos/114271854310719883355/albums/5999247106102162161

There is a wooden block that provides support for the bearing at the bottom of the rudder. I will sort out whether this needs to be replaced once everything dries up.

I am going to let the fiberglass dry for awhile and then sort out how to refill the rudder with foam and seal it up. I will probably add one layer of biaxial cloth to the entire surface below the waterline.
 

Blueboatman

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Until the photos appear....?

Could be early CopperBot application, could even be an epoxytar...?

May I suggest, it is worth understanding the rudder before prising it apart.

Your boat may be a Pheon built one, lots of info if you google Pheon Yachts Vancouver32

If you drill hole(s) in the rudder base, insert wicks and stand it up in a sunny place for a while, moisture can be drawn out .

If you cut into the side using 4 angled cuts in an oblong shape, you can rebuild the foam and restore the same skin..
Re seal , fill, redrill and seal the mounting bolts.

Edges can be finely ground and epoxied with tape to complete the seal and restore integrity/strength

( I see no advantage in separating the whole rudder shell at this time, IMO )..

Hope that helps
 
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