Value of secondhand 2GM20

[syvictoria]

Hi! Sorry in advance for the lengthy post...

I won't beat about the bush - this is one of those annoying I don't know how much to ask for my item, but here's what I have available... hint, hint, nudge. nudge... posts! Sorry, but needs must - I promise I won't do it again!

Anyway, here goes... We will soon be removing a running 2GM20 engine and gearbox, and, as per the title, I'm not really sure what it's secondhand value is. Apart from having ran it briefly a couple of times, I unfortunately know nothing more about the engine than is recorded in the survey back in Sept. 2009:

"Yanmar, Model 2GM20, Serial No. 08264, 2-cylinder naturally aspirated direct cooled 4-stroke diesel engine close-coupled to a Yanmar oil-operated reversing-reduction gearbox, flexibly-mounted on grp moulded...

Engine sump and gearbox lubricating-operating oils checked by respective dipsticks, found to be clean, free of visible contamination and filled to the correct levels.

Engine examined externally as installed, turned over manually on and off full compression, with no unwarranted movement or slackness felt affecting little end bearings, big end bearings and main bearings, during each rotation.

The gearbox was not engaged in either the ahead or astern movement as the neutral button in the single lever control was stuck in (now fixed!).

1. When turning the engine over manually on full compression, compression felt low.

Engine was briefly started using self-start system, taking some time to start, probably due to low compression, run for approximately 30 seconds only.

2. External surfaces of engine lightly corroded and rusted through paint coatings, especially the bed plates of flexible mounts and the coupling between the gearbox and the propeller shaft.

3. Alternator-water pump drive belt slack."

The surveyor then went on to recommend that the engine be removed and overhauled. However, as we plan to own the boat for a long time, and we will be living aboard and cruising full time, we've taken the decision to bite the bullet and replace the engine rather than overhaul it. Unfortunately the engine has no engine hours meter, and as the previous owner had passed away, we don't really know anything else about it. The boat was (and currently still is) ashore when we bought her. We assume it's the same age as the boat (built 1987). It's currently still in the boat, and should be removed April/May time, unless someone is willing to pay for the crane in the meantime (and assuming that the yard can get the crane to the boat, which would be difficult at the moment).

Once again, I apologise for the blatant bending of forum rules, and I will understand if the mods want to delete this post ().

Is anyone able to give me some idea of what sort of asking price I should be looking at or, even better, is anyone looking for a lump to overhaul!!!

(BTW: I hate eBay, so please, no suggestions about putting it on there - that will be my last resort.)

TIA!

 

[prv]

No idea as to value I'm afraid. But apart from the potentially low compression (I say potentially as it's just a non-specialist's feel through the starting handle, not a proper test) it doesn't sound bad at all. Pity to get rid of it, but if you've made up your mind...

Would be a good idea to take some video of it running, to show a potential buyer, before you take it out.

A crane isn't strictly necessary for removing it - a mate and I took a 2GM20 out of my old boat and put it back in without powered assistance. We did erect a "goalpost" scaffold over the boat to hang a tackle from, but that's because the mast was down - if it's up, the boom can be used. If you empty the sump and take off the alternator that's a few kilos knocked off the weight - every little helps! We lifted it into my Polo by hand.

Pete

 

[syvictoria]

Thanks Pete.

No idea as to value I'm afraid. But apart from the potentially low compression (I say potentially as it's just a non-specialist's feel through the starting handle, not a proper test) it doesn't sound bad at all. Pity to get rid of it, but if you've made up your mind...

Yes, we've had many heated discussions over this in the past couple of years!

Would be a good idea to take some video of it running, to show a potential buyer, before you take it out.

Hadn't thought of that, thank you. Sadly the diesel tank developed a leak and has since been emptied, but we can probably rig up a temporary supply.

A crane isn't strictly necessary for removing it - a mate and I took a 2GM20 out of my old boat and put it back in without powered assistance. We did erect a "goalpost" scaffold over the boat to hang a tackle from, but that's because the mast was down - if it's up, the boom can be used. If you empty the sump and take off the alternator that's a few kilos knocked off the weight - every little helps! We lifted it into my Polo by hand.

That's very useful to know. We have no rig at the mo, but I know someone with scaffolding...!

 

[onesea]

I cannot help with the value, depends on the needs of the buyer.

Although I am interested in the out come, we have one that is nearing 30yrs old still soldiering on. It starts first time and does all required of it, there is no reason to doubt it other than it is 30 years old and might decide one day it wants to retire..

Although I have made it clear to it there will be no easy retirement, in a cosy back yard, it will be come a mud anchor

Either way I do fear the costs when it has had its day...

 

[MoodySabre]

If its a runner put it on eBay for £300 and hope to get £500.

 

[syvictoria]

If its a runner put it on eBay for £300 and hope to get £500.

Yes, and, at best eBay will be £50 richer (I'd rather sell it here for £450), and at worse, some idiot buyer will ask for confirmation of it's colour after the end of the auction and then decide that he doesn't actually want to drive down from Glasgow to buy it!!!!!!!!!!

Whilst I appreciate all/any replies to my posts, please no more recommendations for eBay!

 

[sailorman]

I sold my old 4108 through Boats & Outboards also Gumtree might be worth a go

Yes, and, at best eBay will be £50 richer (I'd rather sell it here for £450), and at worse, some idiot buyer will ask for confirmation of it's colour after the end of the auction and then decide that he doesn't actually want to drive down from Glasgow to buy it!!!!!!!!!!

Whilst I appreciate all/any replies to my posts, please no more recommendations for eBay!

 

[prv]

some idiot buyer will ask for confirmation of it's colour after the end of the auction

I once advertised a "7 foot dinghy", which also mentioned in the description that it was 7 feet long. I still got a question asking how long it was!

I didn't reply; the last thing I wanted was for someone that thick to bid, win, and force me to have further dealings with them

Pete

 

[Talbot]

I sold one 3GM30 + SD20 through Apolloduck

I sold one 3GM30 through the marine engineer who installed my new engines

I still have an SD20 saildrive if anyone is interested!!!

The 3GM30 were disconnected from the saildrives and then manhandled out of the engine rooms and through the saloon into the cockpit.

 

[l'escargot]

There is one on Boats and Outboards listed as sold which was advertised at £2600 - ok, it says it had been serviced after removal but someone had still decided it needed replacement. It is surprising how much second-hand engines go for sometimes. I would stick yours on there for at least £1000, it is free to advertise and nothing to lose.

 

[vyv_cox]

A couple of points that might help. If the engine had been standing for some time before the surveyor turned it over manually it would naturally have low compression due to oil draining from the bores. Did he try again after running it? It could be worth trying again, maybe get him to come back and do a mini-assessment. The value of an engine with good compression is far more than one with low. There is a page on my website that will give you some pointers about assessing the condition of an engine without expensive equipment.

On the home page of the website there is a photo of Owen and myself lifting an old Volvo engine into a boat, using the boom and halyards and a chain block. That engine must be at least twice the weight of yours, even with the gearbox.

 

[syvictoria]

Thanks very much for all the replies. Lots of food for thought...

 

[Spyro]

£1000 would be a good wedge to put towards the cost of a new engine. If I was selling one I would hope to get that for a good runner. If buying I would hope to get it for £500

 

[Birdseye]

I got £800 for a 2gm20.

But are you made of money that you can just blow 5k on replacing an engine that you dont even know needs repair?

 

[syvictoria]

I got £800 for a 2gm20.

Thanks you - that's useful. And judging by your next sentence, I'm guessing yours was all but a right-off!!

We felt that making the investment was, for us, better now, than in in 2, 5, 10,... years time. It's not been a decision we've taken lightly, I can assure you. This boat is about to become our home for the foreseeable future. Equally, surely if I were that 'made of money' I wouldn't be worrying about underselling my secondhand engine!

 

[l'escargot]

If you are going to replace an engine, replace it as soon as you can after buying the boat. You will never recoup the cost when you sell the boat, so get the benefit of it as soon as you can - you will be able to look back then and justify the cost just by avoiding years of struggling along nursing an old engine worrying about when is it going to let you down next.

 

[Tranona]

P

Thanks you - that's useful. And judging by your next sentence, I'm guessing yours was all but a right-off!!

We felt that making the investment was, for us, better now, than in in 2, 5, 10,... years time. It's not been a decision we've taken lightly, I can assure you. This boat is about to become our home for the foreseeable future. Equally, surely if I were that 'made of money' I wouldn't be worrying about underselling my secondhand engine!

Sensible to replace the engine for a modern freshwater cooled one. Get the engine running as it makes it easier to sell. Rights up a waters supply so you can get it warm then the slow starting will cure itself. Sell it on Boats and Outboards free. Ask 1500 and you should get at least 1000 if you include all the bits and with a bit of luck the buyer will help you take it out. Alternatively do a deal with the supplier of your new engine.

 

[charles_reed]

Hi! Sorry in advance for the lengthy post...

I won't beat about the bush - this is one of those annoying I don't know how much to ask for my item, but here's what I have available... hint, hint, nudge. nudge... posts! Sorry, but needs must - I promise I won't do it again!

Anyway, here goes... We will soon be removing a running 2GM20 engine and gearbox, and, as per the title, I'm not really sure what it's secondhand value is. Apart from having ran it briefly a couple of times, I unfortunately know nothing more about the engine than is recorded in the survey back in Sept. 2009:

"Yanmar, Model 2GM20, Serial No. 08264, 2-cylinder naturally aspirated direct cooled 4-stroke diesel engine close-coupled to a Yanmar oil-operated reversing-reduction gearbox, flexibly-mounted on grp moulded...

Engine sump and gearbox lubricating-operating oils checked by respective dipsticks, found to be clean, free of visible contamination and filled to the correct levels.

Engine examined externally as installed, turned over manually on and off full compression, with no unwarranted movement or slackness felt affecting little end bearings, big end bearings and main bearings, during each rotation.

The gearbox was not engaged in either the ahead or astern movement as the neutral button in the single lever control was stuck in (now fixed!).

1. When turning the engine over manually on full compression, compression felt low.

Engine was briefly started using self-start system, taking some time to start, probably due to low compression, run for approximately 30 seconds only.

2. External surfaces of engine lightly corroded and rusted through paint coatings, especially the bed plates of flexible mounts and the coupling between the gearbox and the propeller shaft.

3. Alternator-water pump drive belt slack."

The surveyor then went on to recommend that the engine be removed and overhauled. However, as we plan to own the boat for a long time, and we will be living aboard and cruising full time, we've taken the decision to bite the bullet and replace the engine rather than overhaul it. Unfortunately the engine has no engine hours meter, and as the previous owner had passed away, we don't really know anything else about it. The boat was (and currently still is) ashore when we bought her. We assume it's the same age as the boat (built 1987). It's currently still in the boat, and should be removed April/May time, unless someone is willing to pay for the crane in the meantime (and assuming that the yard can get the crane to the boat, which would be difficult at the moment).

Once again, I apologise for the blatant bending of forum rules, and I will understand if the mods want to delete this post ().

Is anyone able to give me some idea of what sort of asking price I should be looking at or, even better, is anyone looking for a lump to overhaul!!!

(BTW: I hate eBay, so please, no suggestions about putting it on there - that will be my last resort.)

TIA!

When I changed mine for a new 3YM20, I gave the old one away.

With the raw-water cooled version a head gasket leak usually produced a badly corroded cylinder bore (#1).
Your best bet for getting a reasonably fair price is to contact John Skewes.

http://www.cornwallmarine.net/compo...ngineers-168/cellar-marine-ltd-581/index.html

He's probably the most active Yanmar refurbisher but forget internet contact and telephone action, it is Cornwall!

 

[Birdseye]

Thanks you - that's useful. And judging by your next sentence, I'm guessing yours was all but a right-off!!

We felt that making the investment was, for us, better now, than in in 2, 5, 10,... years time. It's not been a decision we've taken lightly, I can assure you. This boat is about to become our home for the foreseeable future. Equally, surely if I were that 'made of money' I wouldn't be worrying about underselling my secondhand engine!

Mine had the problem of corrosion through the exhaust elbow ( the internal tube) which then allowed water into the cylinder head and corroded through the internal wall of the head into the oil ways. We were then planning to go to the med so I did what you intend. It was probably unnecessary but it was a lot more serious than slack belts and someone pretending to judge compression ratio from turning over with the starting handle.

In your situation I would investigate further. The price I got was as high as it was because the engine is a very good one, a marine engine not converted earthmoving, and the bottom end and gearbox were 100%. Adjusting the belts is easy. Poor compression could be no more than valve seals and valve adjustment which again is easy. Whip off the cylinder head and refurb it. DIY. If you still have poor compression then getting rid makes sense since a rebore is a lot more expensive

As it happened, we bu66ered up the new engine motoring across the bay of biscay at steady revs - we polished the bores to the point where the engine went from full to empty on the dip stick in 12 hours use. We had given the engine semi synthetic oil. So sometimes the devil you know is better!

 

[bluemoongaffer]

You might not like ebay but it does work - better than the specialist sites (IMHO). You can always wait for a free listing weekend and put a high reserve on it - very little to lose