using genoa tracks as a central cleat

[Burnham Bob]

I have two sets of genoa tracks - the forward set would probably have been installed to take the sheets for a storm jib as i have an inner forestay added by a previous owner which 'parks' near one of the chain plates and can be deployed and tightened when needed through a clip and lever tensioning device to a ring securely anchored on the deck.

I'm going to experiment with single handed berthing alongside a pontoon with a line with a large loop kept circular with a length of hose pipe that i can drop over pontoon cleats with a boat hook, and then winch the boat in by runing the line through an attachment to the centre of the boat and back to a winch in the cockpit.

What's the froums opinion as to how to run the line back - should i use a carabiner through the toe rail or can is use the forward genoa tracks which have a car through which i can run the line and are in the ideal positions?

 

[sailorman]

I have two sets of genoa tracks - the forward set would probably have been installed to take the sheets for a storm jib as i have an inner forestay added by a previous owner which 'parks' near one of the chain plates and can be deployed and tightened when needed through a clip and lever tensioning device to a ring securely anchored on the deck.

I'm going to experiment with single handed berthing alongside a pontoon with a line with a large loop kept circular with a length of hose pipe that i can drop over pontoon cleats with a boat hook, and then winch the boat in by runing the line through an attachment to the centre of the boat and back to a winch in the cockpit.

What's the froums opinion as to how to run the line back - should i use a carabiner through the toe rail or can is use the forward genoa tracks which have a car through which i can run the line and are in the ideal positions?

my permanent berth has lines all made up ( affixed to the pontoon ) with lines with loops spliced in, its just a matter of aft spring onto centre cleat then forrard windward head line followed by stern nine & forrard spring

 

[CFarr]

No problem I can see with using the genoa cars, they take an awful lot of strain and should cope easily with the stress put on them by mooring with the method you describe.
The only problem might be the lead from cockpit through car to cleat, I would imagine that it doesn't want too much sideways force on the car if it has fixed vertical cheeks but it depends how yours lie.

 

[Tranona]

If it is your home berth then do as Sailorman suggests. You can either pick up the lines from the pontoon, or as I have done have them suspended on a pole at the end ready to collect as you go in..

Using a winch is not really necessary. Have a midships cleat - you can get them to fit genoa tracks and make off the spring there, bit of forward gear and rudder turned to keep the bow in and the boat will lay quietly while you sort the rest out.

 

[Neil]

I did something similar; a sliding cleat on the genoa track placed amidships with a line from this cleat forming a loop and back round the cleat and thence to the cockpit. Its only a 25 footer, so I could throw the loop over the pontoon cleat from the front of the cockpit and put the boat in by hand. Once secured I could then attend to the bow and stern lines at relative leisure.

 

[KellysEye]

I also fitted a sliding cleat they are designed for mooring, sheet cars are not they have an upward load and are not designed for a snatch load, although you might get away with it but I wouldn't like to test it.

 

[onesea]

I also fitted a sliding cleat they are designed for mooring, sheet cars are not they have an upward load and are not designed for a snatch load, although you might get away with it but I wouldn't like to test it.

I use similar system (have drawing some where if interested).. I tie the rope to the toe rail in about right spot round cleat then back jib sheet winch direct.....

 

[oldbilbo]

What's the froums opinion as to how to run the line back - should i use a carabiner through the toe rail or can is use the forward genoa tracks which have a car through which i can run the line and are in the ideal positions?

You could do either.

As mentioned above, you should be wary of applying an 'unfair load' onto the genoa car which could damage it. Perhaps better than a carabiner on the rail would be a suitable single sheave-block clipped onto the rail using a soft-shackle loop you have made up.... or the carabiner, if there is no damaging 'twist' on the gate.

With the free end of your mooring line made off around a cockpit sheet winch to that length which permits you to hold your 'open loop' in hand and drop it over the first cleat, gentle forward motion will have that line 'pull' your boat into the pontoon neatly. Leaving the engine in 'forward tickover' and tiller towards the pontoon will hold the stern in and the boat stationary while you attend to the other lines. A good and seamanlike practice....

 

[Border Terrier]

Not a solution just my thoughts.

I know this an oldish thread but I found it when I looking for published experience.

Our jetty is used by a number of owners. Before coming alongside, I run a bow line
to the cockpit and one from the stern. Then, with no way on, I am able to go ashore
and make fast my lines and adjust to suit.

I see no reason the change my routine until I need a zimmer to get ashore and will
save my money until the day.

 

[rotrax]

I have just done this very mod. to our boat. The standard centre cleats are a little too far forward so that when First Mate steers her alongside and I step off with a warp made to either cleat, as I check the boats forward motion gently with the warp around a pontoon cleat it tends to snub the bow in.

I purchased two Ronstan Genoa track cars fitted with loops which I have mounted behind the Genoa cars. I made up a specific mooring line using a gorilla caribiner and 16mm three strand nylon. This can be used port or starboard.

Only used it once so far-splendid. It now puts the stopping effort further back which allows the boat to stay parallel to the pontoon.

First mate then steers out a little, locks the wheel and adjusts the revs in ahead to balance the tide or wind-if there is any to be balanced.

She then assists by taking the fixed warps and springs back on board after I have put them around the pontoon cleats.

The boat now secured neutral is selected, the engine stopped and the caribiner mooring line removed.

Thats the theory anyway...............................

 

[KellysEye]

We had two stainless steel cleats made to with a bracket to fit the genoa tracks and each cleat had a knurled knob screw to hold it in place. We used it to stop the boat alongside using a cleat on the pontoon level with the stern, it's easy to do.

 

[jusw]

I bought a pair of Plastimo cleats to fix to the Genoa tracks last year.

2 problems - the genoa sheet can get caught around the centre cleat making a dog's breakfast of your best practiced tack! Also I was working by the mast and stepped backwards suddenly and put my full weight on the cleat with my heel - It immediately snapped off like a carrot - so all in all not very impressed.

JuSw

 

[Leighb]

I bought a pair of Plastimo cleats to fix to the Genoa tracks last year.

2 problems - the genoa sheet can get caught around the centre cleat making a dog's breakfast of your best practiced tack! Also I was working by the mast and stepped backwards suddenly and put my full weight on the cleat with my heel - It immediately snapped off like a carrot - so all in all not very impressed.

JuSw

I am sure that would not happen with Barton cleats. The cleat is a good size alloy casting and no more likely to break than any other alloy cleat. What material were the Plastimo ones made of? I assume some type of plastic?

 

[sailorman]

I bought a pair of Plastimo cleats to fix to the Genoa tracks last year.

2 problems - the genoa sheet can get caught around the centre cleat making a dog's breakfast of your best practiced tack! Also I was working by the mast and stepped backwards suddenly and put my full weight on the cleat with my heel - It immediately snapped off like a carrot - so all in all not very impressed.

JuSw

make 2 teak blocks to wrap around / under the horns with a lashing to hold in place. Better still get the ones that can be removed in which case 1 cleat would do

 

[KellysEye]

I forgot to mention I bought the stainless cleats then measured the width of the track and the depth. Then the fabricator used the inside width and depth to make the curved each side stainless plates on which the cleats were welded.

>I bought a pair of Plastimo cleats to fix to the Genoa tracks last year...the genoa sheet can get caught around the centre cleat making a dog's breakfast of your best practiced tack!

The Plastimo cleats don't look like stainless and certainly not at the low price they look like something for a flag halyard, cleats should always be made of stainless. The cleats should always be behind the sheet cars then the sheet can't be caught by the cleat.