Up to what Loa boat would you consider it practical to singlehand?

Having single handed for the past 20 years I consider myself reasonably competent but by no means perfect, the main tensions remain berthing in an unfamiliar marina & picking up a mooring in strong wind/tide. It wasn’t always so, when I started out I had my fair share of prangs, panics & embarrassments. The first 7 years was on a bullet proof 29 ft Mirage, 30 years old when purchased so hitting the pontoon was not a disaster ( avoiding hitting other boats was my primary objective).

As is clear from this thread the key requirement to be a competent single hander is many years of experience, not exactly helpful advice for somebody considering how best to start out, we ALL have to go up a learning curve and the early days can potentially be expensive & confidence breaking, the real advice needed is how to de-risk the early period so as to build capability & confidence

The start point should be some introspection, are you able to think ahead & picture the desired docking moves & what might go wrong & then prepare accordingly? Port side to suddenly becoming starboard is a panic unless you already rigged fenders on both sides & at least a midships line on both. People with an ‘it will be alright on the night ‘approach will come to grief.

As for size of boat my second one was chosen to be ideal for single handing and from time to time the family, it’s an Oceanis 40, fin keel single rudder to steer easily in reverse, bow thruster with hand held remote allows stepping off and bringing the bow in, electric winches, lines led aft, sugar scoop stern. Addressing the concerns about the reliance on technology, regular maintenance & then testing just before use seems to work. My preferred marina docking is to have two fenders over the stern & reverse into a finger berth hard up to the central walkway & step off & secure the stern line, then walk forward & pick up the bow line which has been positioned amidships, wind blowing me on is easy, a strong wind blowing the bow off less so, the trick seems to be to get the bow thruster on early even before securing the stern and keep it on whilst walking forward, this at least holds the bow until the line is on, worst case, the fenders on the other side will allow protection if she blows across to the adjacent boat (not happened yet)

I’ll be honest I don’t like accepting help from people on the pontoon, they invariably do the wrong thing or misunderstand instructions, but also prevent the confidence building which comes from doing it successfully alone.
 
Having single handed for the past 20 years I consider myself reasonably competent but by no means perfect, the main tensions remain berthing in an unfamiliar marina & picking up a mooring in strong wind/tide. It wasn’t always so, when I started out I had my fair share of prangs, panics & embarrassments. The first 7 years was on a bullet proof 29 ft Mirage, 30 years old when purchased so hitting the pontoon was not a disaster ( avoiding hitting other boats was my primary objective).

As is clear from this thread the key requirement to be a competent single hander is many years of experience, not exactly helpful advice for somebody considering how best to start out, we ALL have to go up a learning curve and the early days can potentially be expensive & confidence breaking, the real advice needed is how to de-risk the early period so as to build capability & confidence

The start point should be some introspection, are you able to think ahead & picture the desired docking moves & what might go wrong & then prepare accordingly? Port side to suddenly becoming starboard is a panic unless you already rigged fenders on both sides & at least a midships line on both. People with an ‘it will be alright on the night ‘approach will come to grief.

As for size of boat my second one was chosen to be ideal for single handing and from time to time the family, it’s an Oceanis 40, fin keel single rudder to steer easily in reverse, bow thruster with hand held remote allows stepping off and bringing the bow in, electric winches, lines led aft, sugar scoop stern. Addressing the concerns about the reliance on technology, regular maintenance & then testing just before use seems to work. My preferred marina docking is to have two fenders over the stern & reverse into a finger berth hard up to the central walkway & step off & secure the stern line, then walk forward & pick up the bow line which has been positioned amidships, wind blowing me on is easy, a strong wind blowing the bow off less so, the trick seems to be to get the bow thruster on early even before securing the stern and keep it on whilst walking forward, this at least holds the bow until the line is on, worst case, the fenders on the other side will allow protection if she blows across to the adjacent boat (not happened yet)

I’ll be honest I don’t like accepting help from people on the pontoon, they invariably do the wrong thing or misunderstand instructions, but also prevent the confidence building which comes from doing it successfully alone.
Agree with all of that.

For my boat (54ft, 34 tons) without bow thruster, the technique for docking on a pontoon with the wind blowing off it, is to reverse up to the pontoon from dead down wind. Have a fender already deployed int he right position. The boat will steer marvelously directly into the wind going backwards.

Then attach the stern warp when touch the pontoon.

Then you can breath. Take your time to attach the bow line or midships line to the same bollard as the stern. You can easily get off and do this are chucking enough rope onto the pontoon/dock. Then let out a decent bit of stern line and power yourself against the bow/midships spring to pull you in against the wind. This works in very strong winds very well.

No outside help required, nor desirable.

No pulling or winching needed.
 
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I think anything under 40's is fairly straightforward most of the time unless you are being blown off. I have a 55 foot boat and often single hand it, I went to the Folly last year. If I go to a marina then they will usually lend a hand docking. If on the other-hand you are being blown strongly off a pontoon even with two people a large boat can be a handful because the loads are so great. If you rig a midships line to power again the person has to get off and get the line on before you hit the pontoon and sometimes the cleat might not exist that you need, so large boats need a bit more planing.

I think that people are daunted but the length of a boat and it isn't really an issue (Except when blown off or trying to park down tide in a strong tide). A bigger boat usually is heavier and so it doesn't react so quickly to the wind which gives you more time. You soon get used to it.
 
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"……… If you rig a midships line to power again the person has to get off and get the line on ……
Why does anybody need to get off to rig the rope.
We have a special rope with loop at end wrapped in tubing. This is stiff enough to be looped round from on board. Some attach loosely to a pole to assist.
Clearly having no cleat to loop on is one of the many reasons that may need to invoke the pre planned Plan B - abort and return with a differnt plan.
PS The latter easier done solo than with crew - once I did a sudden abort and reverse, but omitted to tell the wife who was trying to make a flying leap :-)
 
You can do that if you know the correct length of line you need. But the cleat could be at the stern of mid ships and you need to shorten it otherwise you are going to donk the pontoon or the boat in front if the line is too long. stepping off with a ine and wrapping it allows for minimal forward movement.
 
Why does anybody need to get off to rig the rope.
We have a special rope with loop at end wrapped in tubing. This is stiff enough to be looped round from on board. Some attach loosely to a pole to assist.
Clearly having no cleat to loop on is one of the many reasons that may need to invoke the pre planned Plan B - abort and return with a differnt plan.
PS The latter easier done solo than with crew - once I did a sudden abort and reverse, but omitted to tell the wife who was trying to make a flying leap :-)
Problem with relying on midships line is that it only works for a berth you are confident of the distances, cannot rely on it as a generic approach to an unknown berth. Also assuming you aim to drop over the cleat furthest from the walkway to avoid risk of hitting then you are faced as a single hander with having to drop it over whilst still steering into the berth and controlling the throttle, very tricky.
 
Problem with relying on midships line is that it only works for a berth you are confident of the distances, cannot rely on it as a generic approach to an unknown berth. Also assuming you aim to drop over the cleat furthest from the walkway to avoid risk of hitting then you are faced as a single hander with having to drop it over whilst still steering into the berth and controlling the throttle, very tricky.
Do it all the time at every berth - lead mid rope back to genoa winch. Stop alongside outer cleat, loop rope on, take up slack on winch then power forward.
Once pinned, can ease rope round winch, still with power on, until bow is in the right place.
 
Do it all the time at every berth - lead mid rope back to genoa winch. Stop alongside outer cleat, loop rope on, take up slack on winch then power forward.
Once pinned, can ease rope round winch, still with power on, until bow is in the right place.
What do you do when the berth you have been allocated has a ridiculously short finger?
 
Taking the question at the top of the thread literally:

Up to what Loa boat would you consider it practical to singlehand?​

my answer would be a boat that is somewhat smaller than the biggest boat that I think I could singlehand.

When you think about practicality, you need to include costs, maintenance and cleaning and so on.

For those reasons I can’t think that I’d want to go above 12-13m LOA.

As a singlehander, I only need one cabin to sleep in, some space to relax, limited space to store food and cook, somewhere to stow general stuff out from under my feet.

So why would I want to maintain a bigger boat, with a bigger, more complex rig, a bigger more complex engine, acres of extra deck and topsides to clean?

Why would I want to pay more to berth a bigger boat than I need?

Why would I want to restrict my choice of moorings more than necessary?
 
Taking the question at the top of the thread literally:

Up to what Loa boat would you consider it practical to singlehand?​

my answer would be a boat that is somewhat smaller than the biggest boat that I think I could singlehand.

When you think about practicality, you need to include costs, maintenance and cleaning and so on.

For those reasons I can’t think that I’d want to go above 12-13m LOA.

As a singlehander, I only need one cabin to sleep in, some space to relax, limited space to store food and cook, somewhere to stow general stuff out from under my feet.

So why would I want to maintain a bigger boat, with a bigger, more complex rig, a bigger more complex engine, acres of extra deck and topsides to clean?

Why would I want to pay more to berth a bigger boat than I need?

Why would I want to restrict my choice of moorings more than necessary?
A common sense answer.
 
The two hardest docking procedures.....reversing into a Med mooring with a strong cross wind with two neighbors either side close together.
The second is....reversing into a Med mooring with a strong cross wind with no neighbors either side.
 
You can do that if you know the correct length of line you need. But the cleat could be at the stern of mid ships and you need to shorten it otherwise you are going to donk the pontoon or the boat in front if the line is too long. stepping off with a ine and wrapping it allows for minimal forward movement.
Not an issue if round winch and therefore adjust length from the helm before putting power on.
 
The two hardest docking procedures.....reversing into a Med mooring with a strong cross wind with two neighbors either side close together.
The second is....reversing into a Med mooring with a strong cross wind with no neighbors either side.
No. Not true.

Much harder is reversing into a Med mooring with a strong wind coming directly down on on the berth. It will blow the bow off one way or the other and you cannot counteract it.

A cross wind is easier. You know which way it will blow you off. You turn towards it at a diagonal angle to the berth, maneuver your stern to the right place with the prop wash and then wait for the wind to blow the bow to the right position. Then you welly it into the berth.
 
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I scanned this forum to find the answer to the very same question a few years back. The general consensus was that around 33' was sensible and around 36' was about the limit.

I bought a Marlow Legend 37, which is actually around 39' LOA, and I have sailed it mostly single-handed. I would say that it is definitely on the upper end of what is practical to manage single-handed. Sailing is absolutely no problem and I could manage something much bigger in open water. However, the most difficult part is always the first and last five yards - i.e. getting in and out of a marina berth or onto a mooring.

Anything bigger would be just too much to manhandle in and out in a blow. However, preparation is everything in this regard. Consider which way the wind is blowing and which way the tide is flowing and the effect that these will have on your boat. Rig lines (preferably on both sides) and fenders somewhere sheltered before entering any marina and be prepared to come in bows to or stern to, as conditions dictate.

Lastly, ask if you can get marina staff to assist on the pontoon but be prepared to do everything yourself.

Whatever you read, though, don't be put off single-handing!
 
Late to the party, as usual!
I've been sailing single handed most of my life.
I'm currently sailing a Southerly 46RS single handed.
I'm 78, weigh in at about 70kg, and far from being Mr Atlas. I've been sailing the Southerly since 2012.
My key to single handed sailing is where you sail. I'm my case NW Scotland, generally north of Mull, and much of the summer, north of Sky.
I generally day sail and anchor overnight. It's obviously much easier to anchor that to come along side. The boat has a windlass with a cockpit remote, which includes a chain counter. After lowering the sails using the autopilot, I remove the pin securing the anchor, approch my anchoring spot in the usual way. Try to hold station, using the engine and bow thruster, whilst I lower the anchor, to a little more than the water depth. Then back away paying out the chain, either drifting or using the engine. All done from the helm.
The anchor will usually set at a scope of 3:1.
I can feel that because of the deceleration and the bow dipping or swinging head to wind.
I then go to the bow and adjust the length of the rode (using the windlass control at the bow) and attach a nylon bridle as a snubber.
I rarely go to a marina, I don't really like them and they are few and far between in NW Scotland.
If I do it's often a mid day pitstop for fuel, water and food. A typical 3 to 4 week trip would have one marina visit.
I do go ashore by dinghy for a walk every day.
If there a lot of wind I won't entertain a berth with the wind blowing me off. The loads are much too high.
Although I have sailed down to lake Solent several times, I didn't enjoy it, too crowded, expensive and restricted. If the Solent was my only option, I'd sell up and take up gardening.
 
Late to the party, as usual!
I've been sailing single handed most of my life.
I'm currently sailing a Southerly 46RS single handed.
I'm 78, weigh in at about 70kg, and far from being Mr Atlas. I've been sailing the Southerly since 2012.
My key to single handed sailing is where you sail. I'm my case NW Scotland, generally north of Mull, and much of the summer, north of Sky.
I generally day sail and anchor overnight. It's obviously much easier to anchor that to come along side. The boat has a windlass with a cockpit remote, which includes a chain counter. After lowering the sails using the autopilot, I remove the pin securing the anchor, approch my anchoring spot in the usual way. Try to hold station, using the engine and bow thruster, whilst I lower the anchor, to a little more than the water depth. Then back away paying out the chain, either drifting or using the engine. All done from the helm.
The anchor will usually set at a scope of 3:1.
I can feel that because of the deceleration and the bow dipping or swinging head to wind.
I then go to the bow and adjust the length of the rode (using the windlass control at the bow) and attach a nylon bridle as a snubber.
I rarely go to a marina, I don't really like them and they are few and far between in NW Scotland.
If I do it's often a mid day pitstop for fuel, water and food. A typical 3 to 4 week trip would have one marina visit.
I do go ashore by dinghy for a walk every day.
If there a lot of wind I won't entertain a berth with the wind blowing me off. The loads are much too high.
Although I have sailed down to lake Solent several times, I didn't enjoy it, too crowded, expensive and restricted. If the Solent was my only option, I'd sell up and take up gardening.

Sailing the Southerly since 2012.

A difficult boat to berth singlehanded? :)
 
It isn't really a length thing.its also equipment, setup and skills.
12m and c8-10 tons (unladen/laden) is probably easier than 8m - IF got the essentials
- bullet proof beliw decks autopilot
- bow thruster with remote control
- electric anchor windlass with remote
- all ropes led aft
- stackpack and lazyjacks
- electric halyard winch
- mid rope with loop led back to genoa winch
I really don’t think many of those are essential.

I agree a decent reliable Autopilot is essential.

Mid rope with loop is my preferred method but other methods possible.

The rest are possibly nice to have but definitely not essential.

I single hand our 11.7 metre boat without a thought but so what. We certainly don’t have a bow thruster or electric winches.

edit: an electric anchor windlass is very helpful.
 
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