Mine came without a plugYou should find one of the three pin plugs in any chandlery, they're very common and pretty good. Fitting one to the TP would be the pragmatic choice.
The TP10 would originally have had one of these, which are about the best you can get.
Bulgin
Edit, there's a matching socket with cover.
That's odd. Mine came from Churmany too, but mit plug.
Those verdammt Krauts have me robbed.That's odd. Mine came from Churmany too, but mit plug.
Glad you told me. I just began laboriously composing an email with the help of Google Translate as follows:I just had a look at SVB and Simrad's sites, the TP10 comes without, the 22 and 32 come with plugs and sockets. Partly because the latter have data connections...
It's quite a lot of jahren since I did Churman, but I understood every word.Glad you told me. I just began laboriously composing an email with the help of Google Translate as follows:
"Vor drei Jahren hast du mich verkauft. ."
That Google Translate is pretty good, ain't it?It's quite a lot of jahren since I did Churman, but I understood every word.
Thanks Tom, but I can just see water getting into anysocket that takes this plug! I’ll change it to a 3 pin or a bulgin.
It will be fine if you give them a bit of a clean and the rubber gland is in reasonable shape. They are what were used for a couple of decades before Bulgin came along.Actually I could take the 3 pin plug of the defunct autohelm and just wire that on, should save some faffing about?
If you're very bored it can be quite fun do do a double, there and back again translation and see what you getThat Google Translate is pretty good, ain't it?
I changed to this type because as patina bulds up on the pins & the female parts it causes a bad connection. The metal one has pins that are easier to clean with a piece of emery paper. The female part can be cleaned with a drill bit or a thin stick with a bit of emery wrapped round it. Electric joint cleaner is rarely successful. Some have a split in the pin so one can open the pin up a bit.I'm not sure if you can buy a 3-pin plug to suit your existing socket. Or a socket to suit your new plug. I would just buy one of these sets. They are not expensive.
View attachment 128680
I really dislike the metal plugs as the plain brass pins always corrode and need constant cleaning. I have never had a corrosion problem with the plated pins on the Bulgin plugs. I agree that the cap thread is too fine but it is quite easy to turn it anticlockwise until it clicks and then tighten it with no chance of cross threading. I have used Bulgin connectors under a metre of water for several months with no problems.I changed to this type because as patina bulds up on the pins & the female parts it causes a bad connection. The metal one has pins that are easier to clean with a piece of emery paper. The female part can be cleaned with a drill bit or a thin stick with a bit of emery wrapped round it. Electric joint cleaner is rarely successful. Some have a split in the pin so one can open the pin up a bit.
With the plastic ones shown on post#3, one cannot do up the outer ring tight & one can easily get it cross threaded. The outer storage cover tends to stick as well & can be tight to get off without something to remove it. ( my plugs are in the open cockpit)
I am on my 7Th autopilot so I have had some experience of autopilot failure & the plug is a common point. The last one was part of the reason I needed a life boat's assistance one night in F7. It can be a real pain in heavy weather to find the autopilot decides to cut out when one is below running down wind & suddenly gybes before one can get to the helm.