Danny_Labrador
Well-Known Member
If you look at my profile you will see that I don’t actually own a boat, (shock horror).
However over the many years I have sailed I have made up for that omission with plenty of chartering.
I have chartered most areas in Southern Europe: Spain, (Atlantic and Mediterranean) Italy, Corfu, Sicily, Croatia Greece, (Aegean and Ionian), Canaries and for the last two years Turkey, (Lycian coast).
I mention all this as having just returned from nearly four weeks in Turkey I have to say its establishing itself as one, of if not my favorite, sailing destinations of all time.
For those interested here is a brief outline of what we achieved this time. If Not… there are plenty of other threads to click on.
SWMBO and I charted again in Göcek on the Lycian Coast, (lovely town incidentally, if you wanted a quick break. I favor it over Fethiye) this time we choose a very nicely equipped Bavaria Cruiser 37 “Demir San”.
Last year we had set off south from Göcek with the intention of visiting Kaş and if possible Kekova but had failed due to weather and time restraints. We only got as far a Kalkan. This time we had given ourselves much more time.
Göcek is situated in a large bay, (Skopea Limani ) with many creeks and anchorages. Some bays, at the sheltered end, have a rough jetties and a restaurant, the only mooring payment being that you eat with them that evening. Generally the food is good to excellent and the prices cheap.
The passage to Kaş is about 60NMm with no ports or anchorages until Kalkan which comes in at 45NM. The coast down to Kaş is impressive – mountains sheer down to the sea to start with and then the longest uninhabited beach I have ever seen – 20NM!
Many of the views from the sea are on snow capped mountains in the distance – spectacular when you are in your shorts sailing.
Our first couple of days was spent in Kappi Creek in the Skopea Limani bay waiting for the weather. Unseasonably cold, wet and windy. It’s a beautiful setting ruined by the restaurateur, (which is unique in our experience in this respect). The food was OK, the format was that you took your plate to a serving area near the kitchen and had placed on your plate what you fancied. There was nothing written, no menu or prices and therein lies the problem. For two we had a reasonable dinner with beer and wine and got asked for 60 Euro – we were astounded and said so and it immediately got reduced to 55 Euro. We had been eating for and subsequently did eat for half and less that amount.
The next morning he came up at the yacht and called me “His Friend” I knew something was up as he ran through the other bays that he suggested that we might try that day – “very beautiful!”. What was he trying to say ? He had a large flotilla due that afternoon and he was looking for space. We stayed and ate on board that night.
The next morning the weather had lifted somewhat and although it would still be on the nose towards Kas we decided to move to an anchorage that we had found last year to give us our best chance of making Kas the day after. Karacaoren bay is the other side of the headland from Fethiye – completely un developed and beautiful. It’s a well sheltered small inlet that an enterprising guy has laid with moorings. You pick one up give him a shout and he comes and picks you up in his motor boat for dinner in a large shed hidden above the shore and drops you back again. A very pleasant place with good food and silly prices.
Early away the next morning in still iffy weather – the forecast had said a following wind which would have been normal for this coast line and good but it was still on the nose although reduced. Because of the high mountains that follow the coast and come right down sheer to the sea in places the wind generally blows south down the coast. Once in a while it reverses and blows up the coast - this is great if timed right to get you back north again.
Not a pleasant day and we decided to call it early Kalkan and put in for the night. The sea is quite shallow on the outer entrance to the large bay indicated by the two islands: Mouse and Snake and the now onshore wind had whipped the sea into quite a state – a beautiful bright turquoise colour but tricky in a force 4/5 with waves on the beam starting to break as we turned to enter the bay.
As with most ports in this area of Turkey, its drop anchor and stern to. Kalkan has a hard sea floor running right up the centre of the mooring area so you have to go well into the other side to find a firm sea bed to get a holding. You have to drop the anchor amidst the chains of the boats anchored on the other side. Counter intuitive but it seems to work. If it doesn't your reversal into your chosen berth will have to be repeated as the anchor will not set.
We found this out to our cost last year when on the second attempt to get the anchor to hold reversing back to the dock I had to suspended operations whilst a large turtle slowly swam out of the way.
Kalkan is a pretty little port very old fashioned but with surprisingly good showers
Lots of commercial boat rebuilding going on at one end, carpenters shaping wood for ornate cabin roofs for Gulets.
We berthed next to Miss Tiggy an Oyster 575 heading back to Palma to complete its circumnavigation.
http://www.misstiggy.com..
We heard some interesting stories about armed guards on board and Somali pirates
We made Kas the next day in beautiful conditions a stayed a couple of nights. The town key is right in the centre of the town, there is a dedicated marina but it’s a bit of a walk. Bigger than Kalkan but an interesting place none the less.
One morning we found these guys in the port car park. They had driven all the way from China and intended to have a good trip around Europe for the summer, (see map). European looking vans but obviously made in China, IVECO etc. Guy we talked to spoke perfect English. Note UK not on itinerary.
So finally to our journeys end the Kekova Island. An unspoilt, absolutely beautiful area - enchanting.
Essentially a long island off the coast provides for a very sheltered inland sea. Then through another sea entrance you can access inland salt water lagoon. We anchored there for two days exploring the area. It’s like going back in time much to see apart from beautiful villages Üçağiz and Kale Köy and historic castles. Maybe two three other yachts there in this massive sea area.
We would have stayed longer but to get the back to the Göcek area you have to make the 70 NM or so potentially against the prevailing winds. We waited for that magic day when the wind reverses and went for it!
So a thoroughly adventurous and exciting holiday, I highly recommend it.
It was of course made infinitely easier by having an excellent charter company IRMAK Yachting. A small family business that pride themselves in being friendly and helpful. Well above average boats as well. And yes I have charted some dogs in my time so I can make a comparison!
https://www.irmakyachting.com
However over the many years I have sailed I have made up for that omission with plenty of chartering.
I have chartered most areas in Southern Europe: Spain, (Atlantic and Mediterranean) Italy, Corfu, Sicily, Croatia Greece, (Aegean and Ionian), Canaries and for the last two years Turkey, (Lycian coast).
I mention all this as having just returned from nearly four weeks in Turkey I have to say its establishing itself as one, of if not my favorite, sailing destinations of all time.
For those interested here is a brief outline of what we achieved this time. If Not… there are plenty of other threads to click on.
SWMBO and I charted again in Göcek on the Lycian Coast, (lovely town incidentally, if you wanted a quick break. I favor it over Fethiye) this time we choose a very nicely equipped Bavaria Cruiser 37 “Demir San”.
Last year we had set off south from Göcek with the intention of visiting Kaş and if possible Kekova but had failed due to weather and time restraints. We only got as far a Kalkan. This time we had given ourselves much more time.
Göcek is situated in a large bay, (Skopea Limani ) with many creeks and anchorages. Some bays, at the sheltered end, have a rough jetties and a restaurant, the only mooring payment being that you eat with them that evening. Generally the food is good to excellent and the prices cheap.
The passage to Kaş is about 60NMm with no ports or anchorages until Kalkan which comes in at 45NM. The coast down to Kaş is impressive – mountains sheer down to the sea to start with and then the longest uninhabited beach I have ever seen – 20NM!
Many of the views from the sea are on snow capped mountains in the distance – spectacular when you are in your shorts sailing.
Our first couple of days was spent in Kappi Creek in the Skopea Limani bay waiting for the weather. Unseasonably cold, wet and windy. It’s a beautiful setting ruined by the restaurateur, (which is unique in our experience in this respect). The food was OK, the format was that you took your plate to a serving area near the kitchen and had placed on your plate what you fancied. There was nothing written, no menu or prices and therein lies the problem. For two we had a reasonable dinner with beer and wine and got asked for 60 Euro – we were astounded and said so and it immediately got reduced to 55 Euro. We had been eating for and subsequently did eat for half and less that amount.
The next morning he came up at the yacht and called me “His Friend” I knew something was up as he ran through the other bays that he suggested that we might try that day – “very beautiful!”. What was he trying to say ? He had a large flotilla due that afternoon and he was looking for space. We stayed and ate on board that night.
The next morning the weather had lifted somewhat and although it would still be on the nose towards Kas we decided to move to an anchorage that we had found last year to give us our best chance of making Kas the day after. Karacaoren bay is the other side of the headland from Fethiye – completely un developed and beautiful. It’s a well sheltered small inlet that an enterprising guy has laid with moorings. You pick one up give him a shout and he comes and picks you up in his motor boat for dinner in a large shed hidden above the shore and drops you back again. A very pleasant place with good food and silly prices.
Early away the next morning in still iffy weather – the forecast had said a following wind which would have been normal for this coast line and good but it was still on the nose although reduced. Because of the high mountains that follow the coast and come right down sheer to the sea in places the wind generally blows south down the coast. Once in a while it reverses and blows up the coast - this is great if timed right to get you back north again.
Not a pleasant day and we decided to call it early Kalkan and put in for the night. The sea is quite shallow on the outer entrance to the large bay indicated by the two islands: Mouse and Snake and the now onshore wind had whipped the sea into quite a state – a beautiful bright turquoise colour but tricky in a force 4/5 with waves on the beam starting to break as we turned to enter the bay.
As with most ports in this area of Turkey, its drop anchor and stern to. Kalkan has a hard sea floor running right up the centre of the mooring area so you have to go well into the other side to find a firm sea bed to get a holding. You have to drop the anchor amidst the chains of the boats anchored on the other side. Counter intuitive but it seems to work. If it doesn't your reversal into your chosen berth will have to be repeated as the anchor will not set.
We found this out to our cost last year when on the second attempt to get the anchor to hold reversing back to the dock I had to suspended operations whilst a large turtle slowly swam out of the way.
Kalkan is a pretty little port very old fashioned but with surprisingly good showers
Lots of commercial boat rebuilding going on at one end, carpenters shaping wood for ornate cabin roofs for Gulets.
We berthed next to Miss Tiggy an Oyster 575 heading back to Palma to complete its circumnavigation.
http://www.misstiggy.com..
We heard some interesting stories about armed guards on board and Somali pirates
We made Kas the next day in beautiful conditions a stayed a couple of nights. The town key is right in the centre of the town, there is a dedicated marina but it’s a bit of a walk. Bigger than Kalkan but an interesting place none the less.
One morning we found these guys in the port car park. They had driven all the way from China and intended to have a good trip around Europe for the summer, (see map). European looking vans but obviously made in China, IVECO etc. Guy we talked to spoke perfect English. Note UK not on itinerary.
So finally to our journeys end the Kekova Island. An unspoilt, absolutely beautiful area - enchanting.
Essentially a long island off the coast provides for a very sheltered inland sea. Then through another sea entrance you can access inland salt water lagoon. We anchored there for two days exploring the area. It’s like going back in time much to see apart from beautiful villages Üçağiz and Kale Köy and historic castles. Maybe two three other yachts there in this massive sea area.
We would have stayed longer but to get the back to the Göcek area you have to make the 70 NM or so potentially against the prevailing winds. We waited for that magic day when the wind reverses and went for it!
So a thoroughly adventurous and exciting holiday, I highly recommend it.
It was of course made infinitely easier by having an excellent charter company IRMAK Yachting. A small family business that pride themselves in being friendly and helpful. Well above average boats as well. And yes I have charted some dogs in my time so I can make a comparison!
https://www.irmakyachting.com
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