Turbo Advice Please

I doubt this will come with nuts and one of mine is stuck on a stud on the manifold. Anyone got an idea idea of size? M10, 316 stainless?

Turbo is still in the shop so can't measure.
 
DavidJ said:
Maybe I’m missing something
Click to expand...

Well I prefer to go off boost. Bit tongue in cheek here. The OP's housing / tunnel was not that badly corroded imo. Not like Mr Googler. However his blade tips were beginning to wear. The option here was to rebuild or replace and replace was chosen because of some tunnel corrosion. This tunnel corrodes at the same rate as the exhaust elbow which is mated to the turbo effectively as a single unit and the exhaust elbow is considered a maintenance item being replaced every 3 to 5 years or so. Ergo if you stress about the housing tunnel that is going to be your TTL. Had I been in the OP's shoes I would have checked boost and made a decision based on loss whether to replace or rebuild. But then I am on outdrives and he is on shafts so his criteria is slightly different as his turbo doesnt get as wet. Me, I'd go replace turbo every six years with a rebuild half way if the tunnel / housing warranted it. What I'd really like is my tunnel to be sleeved from new in stainless steel.
 
bowler said:
I thought it sounded dear.

I ended up ordering a new one. Part number 5326 988 6497, listed for a TAMD41A and matches the original number stamped in the casing: 838697. The Borg Warner number on the casing is different but I am fairly sure this is the right one.

Hopefully that'll be me good to go!
Click to expand...

where did you buy from?

I have in the back of my head that 970 was original when made for Volvo......988 indicates after market spares supplied. All made by Borg Warner and the exact same unit.
 
Mr Googler said:
where did you buy from?

I have in the back of my head that 970 was original when made for Volvo......988 indicates after market spares supplied. All made by Borg Warner and the exact same unit.
Click to expand...

I ended up buying from Replacement Turbochargers - turbochargersales.co.uk - Turbo specialists

I rang a few places this morning that were top of the Google results pages for 'replacement turbos' and they had the fastest lead time, and oddly enough the cheapest. £606 plus VAT delivered. 4 days lead time. Claimed to be a distributer for BW. I liked their vibe. From factory and no charge until in their possession.

Time will tell...
 
Brilliant. Apparently courier has lost my turbo. So much for 4 days.

While I wait. One stud from the original turbo is attached to the manifold. Can't budge the nut with the jam nuts on the other end technique.

Do I cut it off or just reuse the stud on the new turbo, assuming i can get the same stud out of the new turbo.

If i cut, what do i use? Bit tight for a grinder and I dont have a dremel.

Would like some second opinions.

Cheers.
 
I see no reason why that should not come out one way or the other quite easily so am stumped. In your shoes I would get some MAPP gas on it and heat up the stud not flange gently till it's hot but not cherry red and then spray PlusGas (not wd40!) in to cool it and wick the oil in. Then with double counter tortioned nuts wiggle tight and loose until it starts to give adding more PlusGas all the time.
Failing that get a pneumatic impact wrench with a chuck or roller stud extractor on and remove. This has never failed me on exhaust studs.

STUD EXTRACTOR SET - 1-6MM/6-12MM 2PC | Halfords UK
 
Cheers Bruce. Hard to get two nuts on the stud as it is pretty short. Will look into that jobbie.

Courier found my turbo so good news there also.

D
 
pretty sure the manifold hole isn’t threaded.

check the empty ones as I could be wrong.

if not....nut on top and tappy tappy perhaps?
 
bowler said:
Do I cut it off or just reuse the stud on the new turbo, assuming i can get the same stud out of the new turbo.
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Thats surely just a bolt seized into a hole, not a stud. Don’t try to tap it through because you will damage the thread and if you fail you make plan B unusable.
Plan B is not do anything and just assemble the new turbo in place.
 
DavidJ said:
Plan B is not do anything and just assemble the new turbo in place.
Click to expand...

IIRC that is a stud into the turbo. You wont be able to use it in place as you'd have to wind the turbo onto it which would throw torque settings out the window let alone destroy gaskets. It must come out. It's just rusted in, could even be a threadlock causing the issue. But come out with a little perseverance it will.
 
BruceK said:
IIRC that is a stud into the turbo. You wont be able to use it in place as you'd have to wind the turbo onto it which would throw torque settings out the window let alone destroy gaskets. It must come out. It's just rusted in, could even be a threadlock causing the issue. But come out with a little perseverance it will.
Click to expand...
Was the old turbo unwound from the manifold?
 
it’s a stud. You could try undoing the nut on the under side.....stack a few washers then put the nut back on and tighten until it pulls through a bit.



51DD9C9D-AA8B-41BC-BEFE-449C597E745B.jpg56BAA2C2-85C6-4F41-9FBE-6B39B63610FD.jpg
 
The manifold is not threaded. The stud slides up and down through the flange but the nut is stuck on the stud. I So now it's like a bolt, hence plan B, if that makes sense?

When I put two nuts on top the second was only on one, maybe two threads and the jams nuts were turning when I tried to free the bottom nut so it left it.

I had doused it in pen fluid multiple times, so I think heat and the stud extractor tool could be the ticket?
 
If the stud (now bolt) moves up and down in the manifold hole.....drop it down and chop it in half surely?

measure the gap below too....you have the stud measurement as above.....might be able to chop of the top and drop the shortened bolt out below
 
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