Irish Rover
Well-Known Member
Same in Türkiye, last time I looked.To those claiming Li are cheaper than LA ... I suggest you do a google on Latvian pricing ... suggest you sit down before looking at results.
Same in Türkiye, last time I looked.To those claiming Li are cheaper than LA ... I suggest you do a google on Latvian pricing ... suggest you sit down before looking at results.
Same in Türkiye, last time I looked.
One Eve cell is 3.2V, you need 4 to make a 12V "battery", todays cost for the cells £240. Sensible usable power would be 80% of the 280Ah, so 224Ah.This.
Lithium cells are now cheaper than the cheapest lead acid batteries and last 10x or 20x more cycles. One EVE 280K cell costs about £70 and has about 900Wh of usable power, whereas a typical 110AH leisure battery has 660Wh of usable power and costs at least £100.
Converting your system to use these will cost a bit in capital expense, but SO worth it.
You can also do drop-ins like Litime which will be about the same cost as lead per Wh of usable power and you avoid the capex, but function, form factor, etc. are not as good as systems built from raw cells.
The last generation of LiFePo4 cells are cheaper than any lead batteries per Wh of usable power. You can get them from the official distributor in the UK, Fogstar Battery, which is a large and reputable supplier to industrial users. I see the price has dropped again -- now £59 (!) for Grade A 280K's. This is about half the cost of cheap leisure batteries per unit of usable power. No "Latvian pricing" involved. Hundreds of thousands of these are being sold every year for use in data centers and even electric utilities for "peak shaving".To those claiming Li are cheaper than LA ... I suggest you do a google on Latvian pricing ... suggest you sit down before looking at results.
Bit misleading/meaningless quoting Wh/Kg ? AH per £1 makes more sense to me.Lots of smaller lead batteries don't last as long as fewer larger ones.
A battery of 8 EVE 280K cells has nearly 7kW of usable power and only weighs 42kg. The difference in power density to lead is staggering -- 169Wh/kg (!!) vs. 25Wh/kg for lead. Almost 7x!!
I am fitting 16 EVE 280K's in one of the two battery box spaces of my Moody 54, which used to hold 4 leisure batteries. Nearly 14kWH of power compared to 2.2kWH of usable power from the previous lead batteries in that box.
The difference is crazy.
This is incorrect. A typical drop in battery is just 4 x cells and a BMS in a box, you still need all of the other bits that you need by putting the cells together yourself.And if you don't want to convert your system, there are good drop-ins available, e.g. Litime, which also use EVE cells. batteries. These are cheaper than golf cart batteries per usable Wh, and similar in price to cheap leisure batteries, and will last probably 8x longer, so vastly cheaper over their life.
Lithium makes no sense for thousand up thousand of small boats or boats used for day sailing/weekends. It is great for others.There is no longer any good reason to keep using lead batteries, in my view. They are not cheaper, they have a fraction of the usable cycle life, they are a faff to use, requiring you to fully charge them regularly, which can take hours of generator time because they charge so slowly for the last 15%. They are at least 5x heavier and much bulkier. There's simply nothing good about lead batteries.
Drop-ins are more expensive than using bare cells, but will not require much modification of charging systems in most boats.Simply put :
Same AH size ... Li is about 3x the price but power delivery due to ability to discharge more gives about 1.5x power ... so net is about 2x cost and that is before I modify charging setups ...
I have upgraded my own boat for not much more than the cost of a new set of Trojan T105's, what I was previously using. That's including the capital expense of the electrical system conversion. But everything you spend upgrading your electrical system improves its function, so it's not money you are spending solely for the purpose of having lithium.
And if you don't want to convert your system, there are good drop-ins available, e.g. Litime, which also use EVE cells. batteries. These are cheaper than golf cart batteries per usable Wh, and similar in price to cheap leisure batteries, and will last probably 8x longer, so vastly cheaper over their life.
There is no longer any good reason to keep using lead batteries, in my view. They are not cheaper, they have a fraction of the usable cycle life, they are a faff to use, requiring you to fully charge them regularly, which can take hours of generator time because they charge so slowly for the last 15%. They are at least 5x heavier and much bulkier. There's simply nothing good about lead batteries.
You keep saying this, but it isn't true.Drop-ins are more expensive than using bare cells, but will not require much modification of charging systems in most boats.
Truck/tractor batteries are heavy duty commercial batteries. They have thicker plates to withstand the heavy current draw, which is why they are bigger and much heavier.I used to sell batteries, but nothing like the size needed for my boat, I was advised to go to a Tractor dealer and have a look at the batteries they put in Tractors, and found that the batteries they sold were much bigger than the ones sold by Motor Factors.
Wh/kg is to show the power density advantage. Weight is important on a sailboat, and to aging backs. Someone upthread mentioned it.Bit misleading/meaningless quoting Wh/Kg ? AH per £1 makes more sense to me.
£960 for the Lithium cells against £400 for the LA. If you are fitting the cells in 2 x 24V groups you will also need 2 x BMS and 2 x fuses/holders. You'll also need DC-DC chargers, most likely at least 2 and possibly a new mains charger. Cells and other equipment will likely come to about £2,000 total, against £400 for 4 x 110Ah LA.
Typical cost for the equipment to fit a single bank of 4 Lithium cells is £240 for the cells, but the BMS, fuse, fuse holder, DC-DC charger and mains charger adds another £600 (using Victron parts). Fitting a so called drop in battery doesn't change any of that, except the cells/BMS add up to more money and almost always feature inferior cells and/or BMS.
Lithium is definitely a better choice for some, but a waste of time for others and always costs much more then the cell prices that Lithium fans usually quote when making comparisons![]()
If you could get Lithium cells at UK prices they would definitely be a good move for you next time you need new batteries.I have 3 of these, and if I remember correctly you posted positively about them some time ago
Promotive AGM for heavy duty | VARTA Automotive Batteries
Thanks Paul. I'm actually sorry I didn't bite the bullet last time.If you could get Lithium cells at UK prices they would definitely be a good move for you next time you need new batteries.
But you quoted 2.2Kwh of usable power. Your comparisons are inconsistent. You compared the power difference to 4 x LA batteries, but now you want to compare the price difference to 8 x batteries.Wh/kg is to show the power density advantage. Weight is important on a sailboat, and to aging backs. Someone upthread mentioned it.
Cost per Wh is just a different question.
Your comparison of £960 for lithium vs. £400 for lead is comparing only a single battery box of lead -- I had TWO. The £960 lithium is 13.4kWh of power, or maybe 11kWh if we are limiting discharge to 20%.
This power system replaces 8x Trojan T105's, not 4x, and which cost £1200 in the UK (about £2000 where I last bought them, in Denmark) and which provided only 5.4kWh of usable power.
I agree it was the best way forward for you, it was for me when i changed last year. I fitted new batteries, Multiplus, 900W of solar etc and it all works great, virtually no electric bills, no need to run the generator etc.The cells are arranged as two batteries of 280AH x 24v each, each controlled by a £140 JK BMS. My existing Victron Multiplus required no modification other than reprogramming. I added a Balmar alternator regulator and a Sterling alternator protector, for maybe £400 more. I added Type T fuses and Blue Seas contactors for each battery. I added monitoring gear -- one Victron BVM for each battery and a Victron Cerbo GX for the system as a whole. I changed all the cabling. I built a new battery box.
Total cost was approximately £2500 including the cells, with me and my friends doing all the labor, but much of that expense would have made sense even if I had stuck with lead. Particularly cabling, fuses, contactors, alternator regulator. I bought really good double-sheathed cabling with tin-plated copper 70mm2 conductor, and really top shelf cable lugs. Vast improvement on the original.
So for only about £500 more than what I last paid for lead batteries, I have totally upgraded my power system to double the capacity, vastly improve its functioning, renew all the cabling, add fuses and monitoring. I consider this a very great bargain.
They'll be even cheaper next time, i suspect.Thanks Paul. I'm actually sorry I didn't bite the bullet last time.
I would be surprised if cost in Latvia is any different from anywhere else in Europe. He will get EVE cells from NKON in Holland just like I did, and a bit cheaper still since his VAT rate is lower. I was actually living in Latvia myself at the time I bought my last set of lead batteries; I ordered them from Germany as that was cheaper than buying locally.You keep saying this, but it isn't true.
You seem to have missed Refueler saying he's in Latvia, hence the prices he quoted.
Now you have all Lithium for your domestics, what's the engine battery arrangement ? One for each engine or do they share a battery. I assume you're 24V ?
The first comparison was with what was located in the single battery box space which the new power system occupies.But you quoted 2.2Kwh of usable power. Your comparisons are inconsistent. You compared the power difference to 4 x LA batteries, but now you want to compare the price difference to 8 x batteries.
I agree it was the best way forward for you, it was for me when i changed last year. I fitted new batteries, Multiplus, 900W of solar etc and it all works great, virtually no electric bills, no need to run the generator etc.
That said, i still believe that Lithium isn't for everyone, simple LA works for many, many boats.
I'm still curious about your engine starting arrangements ?
I was actually living in Latvia myself at the time I bought my last set of lead batteries; I ordered them from Germany as that was cheaper than buying locally.
"constructing" a Lithium pack doesn't involve any welding. You simply clamp them together with some ply or perspex etc, under mild compression, or clamp them and strap them together with glass reinforced tape. I connect my cells together then with flexible busbars.But I have no wish to 'construct' my own battery banks - not of the size you are suggesting anyway .... I have spot welding gear to create small hobby battery packs ... and that's as far as I will go ..
I take it you can start the main engine with the generator battery, in case of emergency ?As to engine and generator starting, my boat was originally designed with completely separate 12v start batteries (both truck batteries) with their own separate charging systems for both main and genset. My main engine has two alternators, the standard 12v Yanmar one, which charges the start batt and nothing else, and a 100A x 24v Leece Neville school bus alternator. There is no connection of any kind between these 12v starting systems, and the 24v house power system. I didn't touch these systems at all.