Trailer sailer: what's a sensible compromise?

[William_H]

Moving boat back on trailer

I guess if you don't have the boat on rollers then it will be difficult.
In my case I use a scissors type car car between the bow post and the bow. A block of wood and more jacking gets it there. If I raise the tow bar as far as possible this helps. The boat can be rolled back fairly easily. I just use the winch to pull it back forward when the time comes.
With the boat pushed back on the trailer the whole thing needs to be supported at the back of the trailer as it is liable to tip stern down. Especially if you climb on.
For all that it is still a horrible job cleaning and painting the hull between the rollers. The only blessing is that it is at home. olewill

 

[ProDave]

I'd suggest next chance you get you drill a test hole in your keel, wishing you a genuine good luck.

That's definitely in the "it ain't broke so I ain't going to fix it" category.

The reason I believe it's lead, is that's what the broker told me when I bought the boat. Unlike many lifting keels, mine is not just a thin parallel thing, but it's shaped, thin at the leading and trailing edges and a few inches thick in the middle.

I think I'll try with a powerful magnet to see if it contains any ferrous material.

 

[bignick]

Back to original Q...

Reptile, do you actually need a car now yourself? If not would your wife swap hers for something bigger that would be suitable for towing? I'm not talking about 4x4s, just something like a mid-size estate that could tow 1400kg or so. Any bigger and you're getting into 4x4 territory and the day-to-day running costs can be horrific

Trailer sailer for me means a lifting keel and a mast that can be erected without a crane. Thinking of something like the First 18 already mentioned, Gem Micro, Hunter Medina etc.

 

[ProDave]

Back to original Q...

Reptile, do you actually need a car now yourself? If not would your wife swap hers for something bigger that would be suitable for towing? I'm not talking about 4x4s, just something like a mid-size estate that could tow 1400kg or so. Any bigger and you're getting into 4x4 territory and the day-to-day running costs can be horrific

there is a middle option.

I drive a Subaru Forrester. Like virtually all Subaru's it has permanent 4 wheel drive. the Subaru Legacy is another very good 4WD estate car. These are "ordinary" cars that just happen to have 4WD and a low ratio transfer box. But you get this benefit for the same price as most other ordinary cars.

there are now plenty of similar small 4WD cars available.

 

[Lakesailor]

I guess if you don't have the boat on rollers then it will be difficult.

Very easy with a bilge keeler sat on it's keels. Once the inertia is overcome it's a question of stopping it!

 

[Reptile Smile]

Sorry to haul this thread out of the 'where are they now' file...

Does anyone have any thoughts about the Copland Foxcub bilge keel? I have a pop at one going cheap, like the budgie - just wondering if it might suit my needs..?

 

[Lakesailor]

I had a fin keel one which was a super sailer. A friend had a bilge keel Mk11 from new and sailed on the Humber and took it to Spain for his hols.
Great boats but getting a bit long in the tooth, sail downwind like the devil and quite close-winded up wind. Look for leaking windows and coach roof sag on the Mk 1.
The Mk1 is a bit tricky to put the mast up short-handed unless someone has replaced the "shoe" mast step with a pivot one.

Probably stiffer than my later Seahawk 17

 

[Reptile Smile]

Thanks Lakesailor, just what I was hoping for. Your second picture isn't helping me be rational and impartial. Now I just want to buy it... ;-)

 

[Seajet]

That's definitely in the "it ain't broke so I ain't going to fix it" category.

The reason I believe it's lead, is that's what the broker told me when I bought the boat. Unlike many lifting keels, mine is not just a thin parallel thing, but it's shaped, thin at the leading and trailing edges and a few inches thick in the middle.

I think I'll try with a powerful magnet to see if it contains any ferrous material.

ProDave,

just spotted your reply here; while I won't comment on ' the broker said so', my lift keel is also a shaped job with rounded leading edge & tapered from about a third ahead of the trailing edge, it's still mild steel, in fact I'd say easier to make a strong stiff section in that than in lead.

The magnet seems a good idea.

Reptile Smile,

there's a twin keel Foxcub just arrived at my club, I haven't seen her sail but she looks a good boat, and from good 'sailors' boat' designers & builders.