gjgm
Active member
If you arent going to do the bearings yourself, its worth thinking about how far a service depot is. I used to waste a whole day getting the damn thing serviced.
Trailer bearings- to immerse or not
- Thread starter Kelpie
- Start date
TSB240
Well-known member
Bowden cables
In my view its not just the wheel bearings and brake assemblies that need checking or maintaining if you dunk your trailer. I do not regret using the yard crane as much as possible for launch or recovery. However they are not always available when you want them.
Modern trailer brake designs use Bowden cables to pull operate the brake drums usually via an equaliser lever. They are prone to corrosion just like wheel bearings. They seize if immersed for any length of time and not maintained.
Freeing a seized cable is no easy job. It is made harder if you leave the trailer unchocked, with load on wheels and with the hand brake on between use.
My winter storage routine every other year is to remove the cables split and tape a funnel at one end to the outer plastic sleeve . Put a little light oil in and leave hanging until drops come out at the bottom. Ones that are too far gone do not allow the tell tale drops and so get replaced at much great expense.
Also check for any chafe or damage to the outer plastic as this makes them prone to premature seizure.
In my view its not just the wheel bearings and brake assemblies that need checking or maintaining if you dunk your trailer. I do not regret using the yard crane as much as possible for launch or recovery. However they are not always available when you want them.
Modern trailer brake designs use Bowden cables to pull operate the brake drums usually via an equaliser lever. They are prone to corrosion just like wheel bearings. They seize if immersed for any length of time and not maintained.
Freeing a seized cable is no easy job. It is made harder if you leave the trailer unchocked, with load on wheels and with the hand brake on between use.
My winter storage routine every other year is to remove the cables split and tape a funnel at one end to the outer plastic sleeve . Put a little light oil in and leave hanging until drops come out at the bottom. Ones that are too far gone do not allow the tell tale drops and so get replaced at much great expense.
Also check for any chafe or damage to the outer plastic as this makes them prone to premature seizure.
Kelpie
Well-known member
Thanks for all the advice.
Looks like a sensible plan of work would be:
- before immersion, ensure that the bearings have sufficient grease in them
- immediately after immersion, wash down with copious fresh water.
- do not leave the handbrake on; jack up to take the load off the wheels whenever the trailer is sitting for a length of time.
I'm leaning towards the idea of craning onto the trailer each autumn, but launching straight from the trailer in the spring, as ProDave suggested. Even my dinghy sailing experience has taught me how much easier launch is than recovery. Also, I think the consensus on lifting out at the end of the season is timed about right, but come springtime I would like to be in the water a month earlier than seems to be the norm.
Looks like a sensible plan of work would be:
- before immersion, ensure that the bearings have sufficient grease in them
- immediately after immersion, wash down with copious fresh water.
- do not leave the handbrake on; jack up to take the load off the wheels whenever the trailer is sitting for a length of time.
I'm leaning towards the idea of craning onto the trailer each autumn, but launching straight from the trailer in the spring, as ProDave suggested. Even my dinghy sailing experience has taught me how much easier launch is than recovery. Also, I think the consensus on lifting out at the end of the season is timed about right, but come springtime I would like to be in the water a month earlier than seems to be the norm.
Avocet
Well-known member
Good point regarding the Bowden cables. Almost impossible to rinse out. Also, the plastic liners on some cables are attacked by some mineral oils. Even those that aren't might attract dirt and grit - ultimately causing them to bind.
davidpbo
Well-known member
My trailer has mainly been used in fresh water.
I try and service the trailer at the beginning and end of the season, and as soon as possible after it has been in salt water, although to date the boat has been returned to fresh water after it's trips away so the hubs have been flushed out.
Takes about 2 hours plus 1/2 hour setting up + packing.
Bowden cables were filled with oil.
I have always used Duckhams Keenol grease but sadly I don't think it is made any more.
When using it I try and check the trailer after a few miles and 10 or 20 miles or so, checking wheel temperatures tie down straps and particularly jockey wheel security. I don't know whether it is just my jockey wheel type (ridged outer casing) but I have had it drop twice. I now use a safety chain on it.
The problem with a lot of trailers is that they spend a lot of time sitting around.
I try and service the trailer at the beginning and end of the season, and as soon as possible after it has been in salt water, although to date the boat has been returned to fresh water after it's trips away so the hubs have been flushed out.
Takes about 2 hours plus 1/2 hour setting up + packing.
Bowden cables were filled with oil.
I have always used Duckhams Keenol grease but sadly I don't think it is made any more.
When using it I try and check the trailer after a few miles and 10 or 20 miles or so, checking wheel temperatures tie down straps and particularly jockey wheel security. I don't know whether it is just my jockey wheel type (ridged outer casing) but I have had it drop twice. I now use a safety chain on it.
The problem with a lot of trailers is that they spend a lot of time sitting around.
Lakesailor
New member
I usually put a bungee cord from the jockey wheel handle to something like the winch post. It stops it unwinding and the sideways tension stops the tube falling through the clamp if it comes loose.
David yesterday
David yesterday
Last edited:
Seajet
...
My neighbour also has an Anderson 22 ( guess who talked him into that ?! ) and is a very good mechanic.
He bought a new road trailer a few years ago, and wouldn't dream of dunking it; we are lucky in having a good hoist at our members-run club, so he has the boat hoisted on & off, the trailer - which still looks like new - staying dry ( every other year the boat is trailed home, inbetween years are spent directly hoisted onto high trestles at the club for better lift keel maintenance ).
This is of course down to lucky circumstances, but I'd certainly go for the 'Spring dunking launch* / Autumn craned to trailer' routine.
* If launching earlier than the rest, do check your insurance, both on & off the trailer & on the mooring !
He bought a new road trailer a few years ago, and wouldn't dream of dunking it; we are lucky in having a good hoist at our members-run club, so he has the boat hoisted on & off, the trailer - which still looks like new - staying dry ( every other year the boat is trailed home, inbetween years are spent directly hoisted onto high trestles at the club for better lift keel maintenance ).
This is of course down to lucky circumstances, but I'd certainly go for the 'Spring dunking launch* / Autumn craned to trailer' routine.
* If launching earlier than the rest, do check your insurance, both on & off the trailer & on the mooring !
SHUG
Active member
I posted on the other thread that its seems dead obvious to install a fresh water flushing system for the brakes and hubs. You can use it to cool down the hubs before immersion and to flush them out afterwards.
Indespension part No:ISBR231 single axle
ISBR232 for twin axles
Seems simple enough to copy.
Indespension part No:ISBR231 single axle
ISBR232 for twin axles
Seems simple enough to copy.
