Top and bottom cleaning

Yngmar

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Update! The below waterline hull (all 40 ft of it) and keel are scraped completely, only the rudder left to do. Overall I'd say it's a tough but very doable job. You get a great upper body workout and learn a lot about antifouling in the process. The Bahco 665 scraper would be my recommendation, although the Pro Scraper is not far behind and features a hose/vacuum attachment if you're so inclined. I've done it wet (see below) and wore a coverall with hood, cartridge mask and closed(!) goggles. The stuff nonetheless gets absolutely everywhere. Mild allergic reaction on my lower arms, as the coverall let some through.

The stuff comes off three times better when thoroughly soaked, so best done in rain! In fact, I've made the most progress while the boat was still in the slings and the yard staff had gone to lunch. Don't have that cup of tea first, get scraping immediately - it's so much easier before it dries out. After it was in the cradle, I've wetted it thoroughly with a hose whenever it started drying out again, but it's not the same as when the boat is fresh out of the water. In total I've scraped one full day and two half days, but not continuously - took a break because the arms were aching and had another enforced break because the sandblasting guys were hogging the only hose (oh irony).

scrape_complete.JPG


Thing's I've noticed: In total I've counted 5 layers of blue AF and a grey primer underneath. The strip near the waterline that was only sometimes immersed was much tougher to scrape off than the rest of the hull. The keel (lead) needed less scraping, as the AF there had flaked off in the pressure wash. There were some patches on the hull where the supports must've been that had no primer underneath. In those areas, the AF came off very easily, and the blue colour had seeped into the outermost layer of gelcoat, tinting it blue (seen in photo). Gelcoat was not harmed in the process (grinding the edges off the scraper helps) and the gelcoat on my hull is over 1mm thick where I've seen it.

Next is sanding off the remaining bits to get a clean white, keyed gelcoat for later coppercoating. I've used the random orbital sander in a small test area and it went very fast, so this should be the easier part. I've watched the sandblasting guys clean a large steel hull in the morning and spray on primer in the afternoon, but they came with two vans, two trailers and 5 men that I wouldn't want to pay for, so I'm happy I've done it this way.
 

ghostlymoron

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What have you done to collect the residue off the ground? Or do you just wash it down the drains?
Boat was lifted around noon today and I started scraping right away. Half a day later:

scrapscrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrape.JPG


Went better than expected after all the dire warnings here. The Bahco 665 two-handed scraper is an absolute must. I've ground off the edges (tough on the grinder, the tungsten carbide blades are really hard). If I had only a putty knife, I would've cried and called the blasting guys within an hour. At this rate I guess a few days more and I'll be ready to sand. Scraping works much better when wet, so I kept hosing the part I was working on down when it got dry. That also prevents the dust, as the stuff comes off with a satisfying slurp rather than go airborne. I wore a disposable coverall with hood, mask, goggles and gloves. Ended up with blue clothing and arms anyways, despite doing the correct removal procedure for chemical weapon contaminated protective clothing :)

For the dry sanding bit I plan to tape polythene sheeting all around the topsides.

If I did this for a living I'd worry about looking like one of those bodybuilders with gorilla like upper bodies and tiny legs.
 

Yngmar

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What have you done to collect the residue off the ground? Or do you just wash it down the drains?

Absolutely nothing. The boatyard guys are fine with that, I've asked before I started. There are no drains, so whatever doesn't seep in between those tiles eventually runs down the side of the boatyard into the inner harbour, joining all the antifoul and antifoul resistant marine life from decades of power-washing in the slings. Probably not ideal.

Got some sanding done today, almost done with one half of the hull. Arms likely to ache again tomorrow:
sexybottom.JPG
 

longjohnsilver

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J
I've asked them and they quoted me something fairly outrageous (well beyond a grand, plus VAT). Plus, they're no longer Symblast and this all sounds a bit dodgy:

Due to recent restructuring of the company (Our accountant woman completely screwed the whole lot up) we are now named Southern Blast Ltd, the change will have no effect on work carried out previously and all warrantee work will be honoured, (the fact is there isn’t any warrantee work). My company carries on exactly as it has for the past 16 years-providing a high quality service at reasonable costs as it always has. Needless to say we now have a very competent accountant! Thanks to all our customers and suppliers support over the last 6 months and prior 4 months of total hell.
Paul Hockey-Director


After that quote, I'm even more motivated to strip it myself instead.

Good decision!
 

Yngmar

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Sanding complete! Hull all clean, keel I've sanded too (yum, lead dust :disgust:), but isn't smooth enough so I'll have to go on with a rotary wirebrush and then some epoxy fairing before painting on the recommended Interprotect.

Also scraped rudder and found a lot of big blisters on one side. Used my Hulk rage to lift the thing upright and drilled a few holes in to drain it. About a half pint of water came out, which must've come in at the top where the post goes into the rudder (Jefa recommends some sealant there now, which was previously absent).

The sanding took maybe 3 days total, although not full time, as there were various interruptions due to rain or arms growing too heavy. The Lidl random orbital sander did very well (apart from the Parkside logo peeling off), and its little dust collector bag caught more than expected. Unsurprisingly, spending a bit more dough on the Festool paint sanding discs (grey surface) is a good deal, because they last twice as long and sand 50% faster than the cheap discs I've also tried. When you pick a sander, buy the lightest one you can find - it gets really heavy doing all the overhead work on a flat bottomed boat! Great shoulder/arm workout though.

IMG_1707.JPG
 

laika

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that looks really impressive

+several. Just wandered past the yard. Looks more impressive in real life. Fantastic job. I'm now reconsidering my stance of wanting to pay someone to blast my boat. Having said that, I've got rather more than 5 coats of antifoul on there...
 

Yngmar

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+several. Just wandered past the yard. Looks more impressive in real life. Fantastic job. I'm now reconsidering my stance of wanting to pay someone to blast my boat. Having said that, I've got rather more than 5 coats of antifoul on there...

Cheers! The blasting certainly is faster, but you'll miss out on a great workout. In case you didn't notice it, after scraping and sanding all 40 ft of hull, I now look like this:

26-BODY-BUILDER-by-Jian-Xu.jpg


From what I've seen on the other GRP boat that was blasted while I was there, it still leaves the top near the waterline for you to scrape and sand because they can't get too close to that without demolishing the bootstripe (if you have one) and it also leaves the remains of primer or whatever the layer nearest to the gelcoat is for you to sand off (although that's a quick job and it's disputable whether it actually needs to be done).
 

Metabarca

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"There are no drains, so whatever doesn't seep in between those tiles eventually runs down the side of the boatyard into the inner harbour, joining all the antifoul and antifoul resistant marine life from decades of power-washing in the slings. Probably not ideal."
Blimey! Here all the water from jet washing has to be in an area with basin to collect it for separate treatment and all scrapings have to be collected. When I had the boat in slings to replace the engine, the guy beneath was scraping a few barnacles and some af into a plastic bag rather than kicking it into the sea two metres away.
 

Daydream believer

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When i did mine it failed & Coppercoat people claimed i had got condensation on it - so i had to do again ( still does not work)
The second time I bought sheets of correx from builders merchants, Cut them in half to give 8'X2' sheets & taped them just above waterline to act as curtains
Seemed to work fairly well & was not expensive against the overall scheme of things
 

Yngmar

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Coppercoat is on. I've spent a rather long Sunday doing it, port side of the hull and keel first. Ended up doing 5 coats because that's how much paint I had for. One coat (for one side incl. keel but no rudder) took me about 50 minutes give or take, including mixing. That was also about what the pot life was, with 3 screw caps full of thinner per litre. A lucky coincidence was that one pot was almost exactly the right amount for one coat per side. Near the end of each coat the stuff got somewhat more goopy, which was great as the keel was the last part of each coat, and the goopy stuff seemed to stick better to the recommended Interprotect on the keel.

On the very first coat, the hull was still cool from the night (I started quite early) and I had to wait an extra 30 minutes for the coat to cure enough so it wouldn't come off when painting over it. That problem subsided as the sun warmed the hull. The coats stayed tacky plenty long (several hours), so no worries about it curing too fast, but the pot life was a real race. I mixed full 1 litre pots, but had to focus and no time for breaks or chats (sorry if you dropped by and I was a bit brusque). Could've done half litre pots, but then you spend a lot of extra time measuring and mixing, so I opted not to do that.

As one side was done just after 2pm, I took a break and decided to do the other side as well, making the best use of the lovely forecast. So the hull and keel are all done now. I was a little worried about dew and put masking tape gutters all around, just above the waterline (a trick shamelessly coppied from the local professional, who did a boat the day before). Those worked well, I found some dew from the deck dripping off them this morning, and they'd done their job protecting the coppercoat, which looked great the day after. Some slight paint runners from putting on too much on the first side, but that'll sand off easily and shouldn't harm the function.

Also quite a few insects that landed on the coat while it was still tacky, only to realize to their horror that they'd never leave again. I put them out of their misery and hope they will act as a deterrent to any marine life considering moving onto my hull, much like a hangman in a cage at the town gate.

It's easy to waste a lot of time around the skin fittings, but in the end I just rollered around them, then grabbed a small paintbrush, dunked it in the paint tray and did a line around each one. Same for the keel seal where the roller couldn't get to.

I'm pretty knackered now but well pleased with myself. Time will tell if it sticks and works! :encouragement: Got two pots left for the rudder and the patches where the cradle arms are. Frog tape worked well for masking and came off easily.

That leaves only the topsides to clean up, which look horrid now compared to the shiny bottom. And new rig, saildrive, hooking up hoses, etc.

copperbottom.JPG
 

Yngmar

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When i did mine it failed & Coppercoat people claimed i had got condensation on it - so i had to do again ( still does not work)
The second time I bought sheets of correx from builders merchants, Cut them in half to give 8'X2' sheets & taped them just above waterline to act as curtains
Seemed to work fairly well & was not expensive against the overall scheme of things

How did it fail?
 

Yngmar

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Just to conclude this, she's finally back afloat. For the topsides I've tried a variety of things until finding something that worked, which was Ecover Limescale remover (citric acid based household cleaner) and a scotchbrite pad to remove the dried green sealife just above the waterline and various other stubborn encrustations. Filled some gelcoat damage and then polished with Meguiars Ultimate Compound. Yes that's car polish, and it worked so much better on bringing the chalky blue gelcoat stripes back to life than their rather disappointing Marine/RV stuff. Incidentally the local GRP expert also admitted to using car products after telling him this, but wouldn't reveal which.

The limescale remover and a floor brush also did a great job reviving the underside of the teak toerail, which was green with little fungus things growing on it.

Now I just need a pontoon with a hose to clean the boatyard off the deck. It never ends.

qAV0wdf.jpg
 
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