Silk purse from sow's ear?

zoidberg

zoidberg

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Here's a little challenge.

I have an elderly project which looks very similar to this pic, with original lightly-faded white gelcoat all over. Bottom paint/antifoul is red. There is a 4" silver-grey boot top.

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There is a moulded 'rubbing strake' about 26' x 4" wide, with a 1/2" groove ideal for a gold cove-line. I'm considering painting this 'rubbing strake' a deep red, with a gold cove-line.... and simply cleaning and buffing the rest of the hull. Best bang for bucks!

Alternatively, I could paint the whole hull a deep red, with the cove-line in gold. Much more money, much more effort, much more vivid effect!

The canvaswork is much as depicted.

What are your thoughts...?
 
'Gold' paint can be based on bronze or brass flake (powder). The tops of the gates at Buckingham Palace are (or were) painted as such.

You can achieve a much brighter gold effect now using vacuum deposited aluminium and a yellow resin (carrying the aluminium flake).

The bronze or brass does tarnish.

The suppliers of the pigment would be Eckart, part of Altana, they should be able to suggest a paint manufacturer.

Jonathan
 
I think red shear line and gold cove line quite a smart look - here is mine after repaint and polish of old hull
 

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Frank Holden said:
Depends whether you want your boat to look like a fat cow or a svelte speedster.
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It's definitely true that shearline choices / simple paintwork along the upper part of the hull makes a surprising difference to perception. I had to take all mine off (it wasn't well done) so my boat is now white gelcoat up to the rubbing strake. She lives very near to an identical hull but keeps being called "the tall one". I've got to do something about that.
 
zoidberg said:
What are your thoughts...?
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Personal opinion, but I would tone down the red as it is not a pleasing, calming colour, so don’t paint the rubbing strake red. As for a red rubbing strake with gold cove line, well, that’s just worse, gaudy.

My thoughts, get rid of the red altogether, don’t go for green, blue is very common and boring. A lighter brown canvas looks stunning on white, with varnish and teak wood, and is rarer to see these days, white rubbing strake, gold cove, subtly impressive.
 
I find that yellow'ed plastic stuff goes white again if left in my slightly chlorinated swimming pool for a week or so.
So mix up a bucket of swimming pool chlorine tablets and wall paper paste and apply to the hull and leave for a week before washing off????
 
zoidberg said:
Alternatively, I could paint the whole hull a deep red, with the cove-line in gold. Much more money, much more effort, much more vivid effect!
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Until the first time a fender jumps out, and the hull slides along the edge of a pontoon. I've also seen painted hulls where the fenders have just worn away the paint. Unless you're up for regular repainting, I reckon the only colour to use is as close to the original as you can get.

As for cove lines, you can get tape in most colours Much less faff than painting them, unless you're a lot more skilled than I am.
 
You could consider changing the dodgers to white, or taking them off for photos?
They make a big block of red with the pramhood.

The rubbing strake could look nice in a contrasting colour.
It will make the boat look lower.

The gold cove line will only be visible from fairly close, so is there much point?
If you want it, the easy way is metallic sticky tape sold for the purpose, it looks OK if you can keep it straight (and if you like that sort of thing!)
 
B27 said:
You could consider changing the dodgers to white, or taking them off for photos?
They make a big block of red with the pramhood.

The rubbing strake could look nice in a contrasting colour.
It will make the boat look lower.

The gold cove line will only be visible from fairly close, so is there much point?
If you want it, the easy way is metallic sticky tape sold for the purpose, it looks OK if you can keep it straight (and if you like that sort of thing!)
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Interestingly, I happen to have some white vinyl dodgers, somewhere. The reddish-brown canvaswork I have mimicked was 'work' I generated for a friend who came back from an aborted RTW quite penniless, but who could sew. It's new.

Strictly speaking, just about none of the proposed paintjob(s) will be visible when I'm on the boat, but it will when I'm rowing out to her.
 
If you are thinking about repainting the hull it will need a good clean first anyway. Why not give it a thorough clean, maybe a wash with oxalic acid to shift any stubborn stains, then see how it looks?
As said above, coveline tape is a lot easier to apply then brush painting a coveline.
Remember and post some pics to let us see how you get on!
 
Humblebee said:
If you are thinking about repainting the hull it will need a good clean first anyway. Why not give it a thorough clean, maybe a wash with oxalic acid to shift any stubborn stains, then see how it looks?
As said above, coveline tape is a lot easier to apply then brush painting a coveline.
Remember and post some pics to let us see how you get on!
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Aye, that!
'Mony a mickle mak's a Muchalls'.....

I see ( thanks, Google Streetview ) that sailyboats do dry out alongside the wall at Stonehaven, at least in the Inner Harbour. Any comment you'd care to add?
 
Personally I would keep the hull white, paint it if needs be but first try cutting back the oxidation with a Farecla cutting compound then polish and wax, see how it looks. Minimum outlay maximum elbow grease. Then top it off with gold cavity line with tape and the little arrow head embellishments at the ends. It should look a treat and in keeping with how she was supposed to look.
I think you would regret painting the hull red, ask Refueler.
 
I’d keep the original rubbing strake colour and just restore the gel coat as best you can, with cutting c9mpound and polish. I’m not a fan of painted rubbing strakes, because they are a high wear area and the paint will look worse for wear more quickly than you would expect.

What I would do, which is particularly effective on a boat with a curved sheer line (like the Cutlass 27??) is to put a slight curve in the boot top line. Tom Cunliffe did an article on it. I think it improves the look of the boat significantly and you’re not moving away from the original aesthetic, only improving it.

I’ve had a look for the article and while I can find that it was called “How to scribe a boot top line” and was published in the Oct 2017 issue of Classic Boat I’m struggling to find a copy of the article itself.
 
bignick said:
What I would do.... is to put a slight curve in the boot top line.
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Thanks,
I've found - over many years - that I actually have no difficulty in putting a slight curve in the boot top line.
The challenge is, I've found, to have the top edge match the bottom edge.... and, indeed, be something close to the same on both sides of the boat!

:ROFLMAO:
 
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