Tongue and groove as headlining

Sooner or later you will need access to whatever is underneath.
Does this stuff come apart cleanly after it has been nailed down ?

You leave a gap up the centre, for your services duct, cover with a single plain overlapping board with nicely chamfered edges screwed into place.
 
We put up T&G ceiling using cheapo stuff from B&Q in our Sabre 27. Looked good, not just my opinion but those who saw it agreed.

Easy to do. Battens across the ceiling then brass screws (with all slots lined up - Hmmm must go sailing more often).

Clear varnished. Weathered/browned slowly after the years but was always warm and NO condensation. When we needed to do some rewiring,simply unscrewed the section and then put back afterwards.

If were ever to do the side walls, we'd use a heavier gauge to avoid breakages in use but in the ceiling this was not a consideration and the weight saving was important. The wood seemed to weigh less than the plastic covered panels that we took down.
 
.... brass screws....

I would recommend stainless screws. Just completed a refit many brass screws when being removed sheared because they lose the zinc if there is damp environment which was the case in some areas.
 
Two thoughts

1. Is your cabin ceiling single curvature and more or less rectangular? If not, a good job will need each board to be curved and/or tapered individually - not for the faint hearted or the average wood butcher like me

2. I watched a series on restoring a wooden boat called Susanna on You Tube and they used laths to line the hull inside as the gaps allow a circulation of air and help prevent condensation. The shipwright doing the work explained that a good part of the rot in the boat was because areas behind trim trapped moisture, so allowing circulation was essential. It looked great - so much so that I want to do much the same outboard of my galley.
 
I would recommend stainless screws. Just completed a refit many brass screws when being removed sheared because they lose the zinc if there is damp environment which was the case in some areas.

Big +1. Personally, I'd use cheese heads - half countersunk, half rounded head. Take the trouble to line up the slots, it'll look so much better, even with posi heads.
 
I used white plastic soffit boards from Eurocell, Hillington. I put a vent strip in the middle which meant the deckhead could be built from the centre out to the sides. I just laid the existing headlining plywood over the soffit boards as a template, cut and everything fitted first time. Very easy to dismantle. The centre vent slides out and the individual boards slide out.

https://www.eurocell.co.uk/soffit-board/hollow-soffit-board/100mm-soffit-brd-64-x-5m

https://www.eurocell.co.uk/soffit-board/flat-soffit-board-9mm/10mm-soffit-vent-1k64-x-5m
 

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