Tips on cabling under headlining, please

[Ravi]

Hi,

I am about to set about laying a cable from the engine compartment to the a point just behind the mast. Does anyone have any tricks to minimise the amount of headlining that I need to remove?

The (solar) cable thru deck gland will be above the existing saloon central light fitting and near the mast support where I have a small (4" diameter) access hole.

Other than removing headlining, is there any clever way to trace how the existing cables lead back to the fuse panel? (I thought using the same route would simplify things.) At the minute I can't work out where they disappear to after the first few inches that I can see - especially, how they get past the strip of cabin wall headlining which seems glued to the hull.

When I work out where to run the cable, I was thinking of using something like a piece of bamboo to try and slide the cable under the headlining panels. ?????

I suspect that I am (typically) worrying and overcomplicating a simple job but I like to have a plan before I start and I am always reluctant to dismantle things which may not fit back together perfectly.

Any tips will be gratefully received.

Thanks,

Rav.

 

[johnphilip]

I recall asking the dealers for my boat about this problem, they said they always installed Tacktic (wireless) instruments because it can be such a pig of a job.
No help in your case I guess.

 

[bigwow]

These are useful for pulling and pushing wires.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cable-acc...arch-_-SearchRec-_-Area3&_requestid=97830#_=p

 

[doug748]

If you have one of those metal stud detectors it may help to trace the existing wires, I must admit I have never tried this.

There is one point on my boat which will admit about 3 wires but no more, if I want to add something else I have to omit one of the existing. No amount of poking and prodding will make more room.

Taking a wire from, say, the chart table area to the mast can be made easier by routing it via side or underbunk lockers and then taking it 90deg to the mast; thus not having to take it direct across the expanse of deckhead.

I hate exposed wiring so will try anything to avoid it.

 

[rob2]

You may be successful by feeding a mouse through the small entrnace by the mast and then catching it when it exits at the back of the headlining. a bit of wiggling into position ad you'll know whether you can use the route it followed. The type of mouse you need is the kind used by electricians and pplumbers, semi-rigid so you can push it along. Just go gently to avoid hooking other wires and getting snagged up.

If that doesn't work, then save time and drop the headlining. Many boats have their wires simply gaffer taped here and there to the coachroof as they can't be seen once the lining is in place. Dropping and replacing the lining isn't as hard as it may sound and can be the quickest solution as you're guaranteed success.

Rob.

 

[Ravi]

I recall asking the dealers for my boat about this problem, they said they always installed Tacktic (wireless) instruments because it can be such a pig of a job.
No help in your case I guess.

Yes, wireless solar power would be handy. Mind you, wireless instrumentation seemed a pipe dream not so long ago so, who knows.

These are useful for pulling and pushing wires.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cable-acc...arch-_-SearchRec-_-Area3&_requestid=97830#_=p

Thanks, that does look like exactly the right tool. I have filed the link away for when my pockets are loosened by frustration at trying to do the job with scavenged bamboo. Apart from miserliness, my problem is that having a small boat means that buying anything for a job means that I have to either store it or dispose of it. If I ran a marina, I would do a rental business on things like oil pumps (and this) which would surely enhance the marinas popularity and fees.

If you have one of those metal stud detectors it may help to trace the existing wires, I must admit I have never tried this.

I have one ... at home in the UK!
I suspect that this is the best alternative to removing headlining panels.

I have this idea that I might pull back one of the masthead wires that go to the fuse panel with a mousing line attached to it and then pull it back - along with the new cable. If it works, it would be very pleasing. If it doesn't, would I be any worse off?
But the phrase "What could, possibly, go wrong ...." always fills me with trepidation,.
Snagging another wire and pulling it loose, is the obvious worry.

 

[nickd]

If your boat is anything like any of the others I have seen, the cable will at some point go round some tortuous curve that no bamboo or fibreglass pole will ever follow. Also you existing cabling will almost certainly at some point be glued/taped or fastened so you would not be able to use it as a mouse line. Provided your headlining is removable, ie on boards screwed to the ceiling just take them down, say 1 panel has 10 screws 1 minute per screw maximum, say two panels that 20 minutes to get down and 20 minutes to put up absolute maximum 40 minutes, I would bet you can poke around in that headlining for hours and not get anything done apart from possibly bugger up any ewxisting wires and your knuckles

 

[bigwow]

Provided your headlining is removable, ie on boards screwed to the ceiling just take them down, say 1 panel has 10 screws 1 minute per screw maximum, say two panels that 20 minutes to get down and 20 minutes to put up absolute maximum 40 minutes, I would bet you can poke around in that headlining for hours and not get anything done apart from possibly bugger up any ewxisting wires and your knuckles

I redid my headlining using Dual Lock, Velcro on steroids, no screws so very quick to take down and replace.

 

[SiteSurfer]

If it helps Aldi do a Silverline 1m x 10 cable access kit which I bought and have used extensively when rewiring my boat. I think it was about 7 quid and contains several flexible screw together rods and assorted ends - these make it a doddle to push wires through cavities, retrieve wires and thread things.

Mine has paid for itself several times over in avoiding taking bits of the boat apart to get at wires.

 

[johnphilip]

If your boat is anything like any of the others I have seen, the cable will at some point go round some tortuous curve that no bamboo or fibreglass pole will ever follow. Also you existing cabling will almost certainly at some point be glued/taped or fastened so you would not be able to use it as a mouse line. Provided your headlining is removable, ie on boards screwed to the ceiling just take them down, say 1 panel has 10 screws 1 minute per screw maximum, say two panels that 20 minutes to get down and 20 minutes to put up absolute maximum 40 minutes, I would bet you can poke around in that headlining for hours and not get anything done apart from possibly bugger up any ewxisting wires and your knuckles

If only, when working on mine I have a moulded one piece headlining to contend with,

 

[Bru]

These are useful for pulling and pushing wires.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cable-acc...arch-_-SearchRec-_-Area3&_requestid=97830#_=p

That's what I use, if the rods won't make it through the other bit of kit I have in my toolbox is http://www.screwfix.com/p/spring-steel-fish-tape/67849

 

[LadyInBed]

That's what I use, if the rods won't make it through the other bit of kit I have in my toolbox is http://www.screwfix.com/p/spring-steel-fish-tape/67849

OP - look at the bottom of the page in "Other things to consider" section.

 

[Ravi]

OP - look at the bottom of the page in "Other things to consider" section.

Yes, it has been a revelation to discover how many ways there are to get under the skin of this particular cat.