Tips for servicing a Honda BF2D outboard

Compressed is the best way but if you don't have access to it use fishing line. I've never done this but have read about it. I'm servicing my 2.3 today so may have to do it although it's not part of the standard service.
I clean mine by squirting carb cleaner through. Be careful it's only plastic and don't damage the o ring on it.
 
Okay, so I thought I would try and fire it up last night before I stripped the carb to see how bad the idle problem was. So I topped up the oil, filled up the petrol and moved the affair outside. Turned the fuel on, opened the vent on the petrol cap, and checked the engine over - I noted petrol was dripping from the back of the engine! I turned the fuel off again, and took the cover off, and noted it was either coming from the vent pipe or from behind the carb.


Now, when I emptied the fuel out at the end of the season, it was a bit of a rush job that involved turning the engine 'upside down', could it be a flooded carb? I turned the fuel off again, retreated to the garage, I then took the fuel tank off, emptied that again, and set about taking the covers off to get at the carb. At this point, the first mate then came and pulled me in at 10pm suggesting she would like to actually see me. :rolleyes:

Spark plug out:
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Cover off:
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Air filter off:
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Any thoughts on the leak? I'll take the carb apart tonight...
 
Hi you either haven't cleaned it properly, haven't reassembled it properly, closed the drain screw or have a defective fuel bowl or needle valve/float
 
Thanks Steve, when I tried starting it up and had that lead I hadn't taken it apart at all at that point. Disassembly and cleaning starts now. I'll take it all apart and photograph it tonight. So the float being stuck would have caused fuel the leak out like that?
 
Thanks Steve, when I tried starting it up and had that lead I hadn't taken it apart at all at that point. Disassembly and cleaning starts now. I'll take it all apart and photograph it tonight. So the float being stuck would have caused fuel the leak out like that?

Yes it's either gummed up or there is a bit of fuel residue stopping the needle valve from sealing. Go easy with the needle valve. It is neoprene
 
Thanks Steve. Got it all to pieces last night and it was pretty dirty inside. The main jet was almost completely blocked. All cleaned up and blown through with my compressor.

How do you remove the little plastic pilot jet? I did gently try and pull it out using some long nosed pliers, but didn't want to damage it. I have some plastic prying tools I could use?

The drain plug has had the head knackered on the bowl too, but I suppose that's not desperately important?

Dirty fuel drained out from the carb - bits in it too!
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Jets out:
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Stripped drain plug:
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Model of the carb:
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Should have just popped it in the post to you Steve, I'm having far too much fun with it though :).
 
When you say the drain plug is knackered, does that mean that you won't be able to get it out to drain the carb?

The best way to keep the carb free of gunge is to drain it before you leave it unused for more that a week or two. You can run the engine with the fuel tap turned off until it stops but that doesn't usually drain the bowl and the last bit evaporates inside. There should be a hole in the casing below the carb where you can stick the screwdriver in to reach the plug.

It sounds like a new drain plug may be a good investment!

Richard
 
I'd need to drill the old drain plug out I think as it certainly isn't budging and get a new plug for £10 - OR get a new bowl including float and plug. A new bowl is £50 though through Honda!! Gads. Time to remortgage the dog again...?
 
I'd need to drill the old drain plug out I think as it certainly isn't budging and get a new plug for £10 - OR get a new bowl including float and plug. A new bowl is £50 though through Honda!! Gads. Time to remortgage the dog again...?
A good second hand bowl is £7 plus p&p Or a new aftermarket bowl is £15 plus p&p . Or have it completely rebuilt Inc new bowl and jets and ultrasonic clean for £35 plus return post
 
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My drain screw was seized this Spring. Just take the whole thing off, releasing the bowl. I found I could then loosen the drain screw. It was gummed up with dead fuel which dissolved in carb cleaner.
Note that the bowl retains the pin on the float valve so it can fall out when you're not looking.
 
My drain screw was seized this Spring. Just take the whole thing off, releasing the bowl. I found I could then loosen the drain screw. It was gummed up with dead fuel which dissolved in carb cleaner.
Note that the bowl retains the pin on the float valve so it can fall out when you're not looking.

Hi Rob. Are you sure you are talking about the same engine? The bowl does not hold the pin in place. It located through small holes in plastic legs
Steve
 
Mine might be slightly different. The pin is fee to slide out. It's only prevented from doing so by the internal sides of the bowl.

Mine now idles beautifully. I'm looking forward to actually arriving at a pontoon rather than crashing into it.

I may even change the oil!
 
Thanks all, cracking advice, and lots of great information. A lot of the fuel lines are quite hard and brittle, I wonder if air is getting in somewhere.

Humm, not sure this is going to work as a test bed - too little water? Recipe for disaster? Its the biggest bin I could fine without resorting to emptying all the rubbish out of the council bin!

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Where on earth do you buy spares too? The gasket for instance that Steve66 (thanks for sharing your experience) suggested?
My comment is no longer relevant.
 
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So I had my carb back from Steve66 in super fast time, and its amazing. New bowl, ultrasonic cleaned, came with packing to reattach it to the engine, looks immaculate. Bolted it back on, fired it up, and it runs sweet again.

The parts to service it direct from Honda would have cost some £80, through Steve it was £35 plus postage. I am a very happy camper, such a relief to have it working well again - thanks Steve.


A few further questions. After running for a few minutes (then getting shouted at by SWMBO to stop tormenting the neightbours and come in), I noted some smoke coming from the recoil starter. Is that normal? Old oil or moisture burning off?


The final two things I need to sort are:

  • When the engine is tilted up, the spring loaded bolt doesn't hold then engine in the 75 degree up position so it just drops back down again. Must be corroded I guess?
  • The new drain screw on the bottom of the carb is quite hard to get at from the inspection hole. Can I just loosen the nut holding the bowl on and rotate it until the drain is easily reachable? I'll be draining it down every time now I reckon to avoid gunking it up again :)
 
So I had my carb back from Steve66 in super fast time, and its amazing. New bowl, ultrasonic cleaned, came with packing to reattach it to the engine, looks immaculate. Bolted it back on, fired it up, and it runs sweet again.

The parts to service it direct from Honda would have cost some £80, through Steve it was £35 plus postage. I am a very happy camper, such a relief to have it working well again - thanks Steve.


A few further questions. After running for a few minutes (then getting shouted at by SWMBO to stop tormenting the neightbours and come in), I noted some smoke coming from the recoil starter. Is that normal? Old oil or moisture burning off?


The final two things I need to sort are:

  • When the engine is tilted up, the spring loaded bolt doesn't hold then engine in the 75 degree up position so it just drops back down again. Must be corroded I guess?
  • The new drain screw on the bottom of the carb is quite hard to get at from the inspection hole. Can I just loosen the nut holding the bowl on and rotate it until the drain is easily reachable? I'll be draining it down every time now I reckon to avoid gunking it up again :)

Hi Mark. Your smoke is burning off the exhaust manifold. 2 reasons this can happen. If you have had oil in your cylinder it come out of the exhaust relief holes in the exhaust pipe. You will see an oily residue on the stainless heat shield. This is normal. Or you have a leaky rocker cover. These do corrode and leak when porous. You will see an oil leak on the lower case under where the spark plug is situated If this is the case. Unfortunately to replace it is a powerhead out job. Not the end of the world and certainly not bad enough to write an engine off.
The spring loaded bolt. Is it free? If it is tighten the transom brackets together or slightly bend the bracket outwards. If it is not free take out the clevis pin and spring so you can knock the tilt catch lock out. Oil it put it back and work it until it's free.
Carb bowl. Yes slightly loosen the bowl and adjust to where you want it.
Thank you for you kind words. Sorry to be a complete anorak. I have an OCD about these little engines
 
I can understand it, I can see that they would be rewarding to work on - I'm an IT manager, so its anoraks all round!

I will keep an eye on the oil burning off, I did top it up and may have overfilled it when doing so (I thought the 'full' level was the top of the sight gauge, not half way up it), would that have done it? I did also at one stage turn the whole engine upside down to empty the old fuel out of it at the end of the season :), not really wise in hindsight, could that have let oil in? I'll check that heat shield.

The bolt isn't free at all, so I'll take that to pieces - its a bit awkward getting up a beach without smashing the prop to pieces otherwise.

Thanks for all the help Steve.
 
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