Tiller Pilots - Which ones to buy?

BabaYaga said:
Agreed.
I have for a while been toying with the idea of a 'double installation' for my EV-100, that is drive pin and socket at 18 and 14 inches from rudder stock.


The wording in the 2006 installation guide I am quoting from seems a bit more open minded about this distance:

tillerdriveadjust2.jpeg
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I am happy with our TP22 on heavyish 27ft yacht. I have 3 mounting positions for the gunwall end pivot pin as boat has weather helm, plus slightly ineffective spade rudder so pivot need moving to the upwind side when sailing as always noticeable tiller off centre required, but midpoint if motoring.

I bought a Pelagic at great cost but was never able to set it up correctly such that it would randomly go in circles if it felt like it - such as half way to Brittany. I had no idea if it was a defective unit or a defective design, but after 4 weeks grief with it and numerous recalibrations by sailing in a circle I returned it and asked for my money back
 
thinwater said:
Refueler. I guess I missunderstood what you were getting at:
"The 'end stop' item ... my AH 800 and 1000 have driven to end stops often - as I use them to go about (pressing both 1 and 10 together) ... and the AH unit has gone over ... and if boat stalls, fails to complete - you hear the AH GRRRRR as its trying to add more helm over and then default to STBY ....
I haven't had mine have 'damage' from this."
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The AH unit hits end stop if the boat fails to turn as expected .. is too slow or gets in irons - stalls as it passes through the wind. As long as boat speed is sufficient .. I usually aid it by momentary backing of genny to push bow through the wind - the unit does not approach end stops.
thinwater said:
Decreasing the pin-to-pintle distance effectively increase the throw by decreasing the leverage, and could reduce end stop problems. Or so people who have done this tell me.

Baba Yaga. I know of people that have done this on smaller boats. No problems. I suspect they do not support it because for most boats 18" is the best compromise and saying otherwise complicates things. But smaller boats and lighter boats (multihulls, for example) require more helm angle because they need to get through tacks quicker (do not carry their way as well). This is particularly true in light winds when autotack is too slow and the 31 degree helm range too limitied for many mutihulls. 39 degrees is more like it. In strong winds (high speeds) my tri is quick enough that it doesn't matter. My cruising cat does fine with standard autotack speeds.

The 2006 and current TP manuals say this:
"The dimensions given in Figures 5.1 and 5.2 should be adhered
to as closely as possible, especially Fig 5.1. Some tolerance on
the distance from the tillerstock (Fig 5.2) is permissible, but the
Tillerpilot may require a Gain adjustment to compensate."

One-size-fits-all seldom does, really. Much easier for the manufacturer to keep it simple.
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Decreasing the tiller bar length from rudder stock to the Tiller Pilot Pin will give you increased rudder angle of course ... BUT it will also increase the torque force needed to move the rudder. Not a problem if boat is well balanced and answers helm well ... but many older boats like mine ... Macwesters etc. have weather helm and this can get to a level that change could cause increased wear on the TP unit ...
 
oldmanofthehills said:
I am happy with our TP22 on heavyish 27ft yacht. I have 3 mounting positions for the gunwall end pivot pin as boat has weather helm, plus slightly ineffective spade rudder so pivot need moving to the upwind side when sailing as always noticeable tiller off centre required, but midpoint if motoring.

I bought a Pelagic at great cost but was never able to set it up correctly such that it would randomly go in circles if it felt like it - such as half way to Brittany. I had no idea if it was a defective unit or a defective design, but after 4 weeks grief with it and numerous recalibrations by sailing in a circle I returned it and asked for my money back
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Guy who set up my rudder / tiller - set the tiller about 10deg's off dead ahead ... right pain !! I have had to get metals guy to 'unweld' and adjust the stock collar to try get that angle out of it. It was as I understand it - to offset the large prop and big engine boat has ... but it was a false mod. I found that my Tiller Pilot compensated such that it turned tight one way - but less the other !! Under engine - I could live with it ... but under sail - it could prove a problem.
 
Tranona said:
The ST 1000 is the latest version of the AH - say latest as I bought an ST 1000 in 1993 or thereabouts1 But that is too small and the ST2000 will be OK for moderate use and for steering under power. If you are really going serious cruising though you need an EV 100 which is vastly superior in particular because it has the same electronics as the latest wheel pilots and will interface with all modern instruments if you so desire. You will soon tire of steering on long passages and once you have experienced an autopilot you would not want to go back.
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EV100 sounds good then, but 1800 eggs is a little more than I found around the easter hunt... Anyway, I ended up buying a used ST2000 from ebay for 200 quid, and I am quite happy with the purchase for now. Didn't want to invest the full price to get a new one, which would be nice for guarantees, but 200 quid is cheap as chips. Couldn't resist.
 
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