Tightening a 100mm nut

[mattnj]

I bought one of these, cheap and made of aluminium but it tightened the new trudesign skin fitting nuts well

Adjustable Spanner Wrench Tool Wide Jaw Large Hand Nut Opening 16-68MM Steel Key | eBay

Apart from the fact that's smaller than the size he needs... ;-)

 

[NormanS]

I'm assuming that the nut is six sided. If so, a plastic nut would be severely stressed by a two sided spanner. Much better to have a six sided spanner to spread the load evenly on the nut. Whether to make the spanner from plywood or steel plate, depends on the abilities of the OP.

 

[WindyWindyWindy]

The square hole might take some effort

A round hole with a bolt through it and a couple of lock nuts might be easier although it'd reduce the clearance on the back.

 

[tillergirl]

Forgive me asking; I hoped someone else could have asked by now: What skin fitting needs a 100mm lock nut? Seems whopping to me.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Magic.

I really like this idea.

Two bits of steel, offcuts . Two bolts with appropriate nuts, a big tap and a square hole.

I'd stick with mild steel, use HT bolts, available from any hardware store - and keep oiled.

Easy

See post 4 made out of wood for those that couldn't fabricate in metal.

 

[Neeves]

Forgive me asking; I hoped someone else could have asked by now: What skin fitting needs a 100mm lock nut? Seems whopping to me.

I have a supplementary question, what skin fitting relies on the integrity of a plastic nut. I can see that the nut might need to be tightened but not to the point where the nut is destroyed by the forces applied.

Surely the fitting is applied on a bed of Sika (or something similar) and the nut is applied to squeeze out any sealant on the inside of the hull. Once set off the nut might be tightened, slightly to compress the sealant. But the nut is almost, but not quite, decorative. During installation I can see why you might not want to tighten by hand, or your hand will be covered in sealant - but the nut should not need much more than hand tightening. I did tighten slightly using a plumbers spanner - like the red handled device, the 3rd photo in Post 7.

The only large hull fitting I can think of is that of the head - but I doubt its 100mm

Jonathan

 

[Salt'n'shaken]

Had to do the ply spanner option before on a toilet cistern for work. Cut out with jigsaw. Works a treat.

12mm or thicker should do it. No danger of damaging a plastic nut.

Oil filter strap wrench is an option as well.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I have a supplementary question, what skin fitting relies on the integrity of a plastic nut. I can see that the nut might need to be tightened but not to the point where the nut is destroyed by the forces applied.

Surely the fitting is applied on a bed of Sika (or something similar) and the nut is applied to squeeze out any sealant on the inside of the hull. Once set off the nut might be tightened, slightly to compress the sealant. But the nut is almost, but not quite, decorative. During installation I can see why you might not want to tighten by hand, or your hand will be covered in sealant - but the nut should not need much more than hand tightening. I did tighten slightly using a plumbers spanner - like the red handled device, the 3rd photo in Post 7.

The only large hull fitting I can think of is that of the head - but I doubt its 100mm

Jonathan

Nomenclature has been sadly lacking in this thread. The one in the third photo is generally known, around these parts, as a Swan-Neck Pliers. The other plumber's device, the one with the worm-drive adjustment, would usually be called a "Stilson".

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

The square hole might take some effort

I am reminded of an article I read in 'Aeroplane', about the RAF Apprentice School at Halton in the 1940s: - new entrants' first task was to make a 1" ball out of a 1" cube of mild steel, using a bastard file, within a time limit.

 

[Bouba]

I am reminded of an article I read in 'Aeroplane', about the RAF Apprentice School at Halton in the 1940s: - new entrants' first task was to make a 1" ball out of a 1" cube of mild steel, using a bastard file, within a time limit.

It won us the war...

 

[Salt'n'shaken]

Nomenclature has been sadly lacking in this thread. The one in the third photo is generally known, around these parts, as a Swan-Neck Pliers. The other plumber's device, the one with the worm-drive adjustment, would usually be called a "Stilson".

I know what you mean by swan-neck pliers, but they seemed to get rebranded as water pump pliers a while back. Swan-neck is a much better name though.

It's a common thing for somebody of one generation/regional background on site to be screaming "fetch me the effing *insert name here*!" while the other person frantically searches through a toolbox trying to translate. All good fun.

Don't get me started on inches to mm though

 

[Neeves]

Don't come to Oz

If I ask for a Mole wrench .... I'm looked at askance. If I asked for a swan neck pliers I'd get no-where. But if I asked for the grey handled spanner (ours have uniquely in my tool box - grey handles) - I'd have success. I don't know what they call a Stilson here, not much call for one on our cat. My support is my wife and I don't expect here to know the name of every tool necessary - being descriptive is so much more useful and leads to much harmony.

If I ask my children, who live in England, how often they Hoover ...... they look blank.

Some people call an adjustable spanner a shifter

Interscrews are also known as Chicago bolts

And my sister in Vancouver calls her mobile (or mobile phone) a cell phone.

Just be a bit more accomodating as Salt'n'shaken implies.

Jonathan

 

[ean_p]

Nomenclature has been sadly lacking in this thread. The one in the third photo is generally known, around these parts, as a Swan-Neck Pliers. The other plumber's device, the one with the worm-drive adjustment, would usually be called a "Stilson".

They are also commonly known as Gland Pliers, ( for doing up gland nuts of various sizes) and these in particular are of the 'slip joint' variety.

 

[colind3782]

When I worked on a DC3 in the States 40 years ago, any adjustable spanner was a "crescent wrench", probably because Crescent was one well known manufacturer of said item, a bit like the "Hoover" thing.

 

[penberth3]

Nomenclature has been sadly lacking in this thread. The one in the third photo is generally known, around these parts, as a Swan-Neck Pliers. The other plumber's device, the one with the worm-drive adjustment, would usually be called a "Stilson".

If you want to be pedantic, a Stillson wrench doesn't have worm-drive adjustment, but does have two "L's"

 

[DinghyMan]

I am reminded of an article I read in 'Aeroplane', about the RAF Apprentice School at Halton in the 1940s: - new entrants' first task was to make a 1" ball out of a 1" cube of mild steel, using a bastard file, within a time limit.

Similar tests were in use in the early 80's when I did my engineering training: several small pieces of 1" steel, hacksaw, files, chalk, and a piece if 1" plate - make a cube that fitted all ways round with no gaps into a square hole you made in the plate, then repeat making a 1" ball in the same hole - also did the square in a square hole later using machine tools as well

 

[Bouba]

When I lived in Africa, if I was working under the Landy , I could say to my Rottweiler, pass me the 17mm spanner...and he would...the locals were amazed and called him The Mechanical Dog..

 

[ean_p]

When I lived in Africa, if I was working under the Landy , I could say to my Rottweiler, pass me the 17mm spanner...and he would...the locals were amazed and called him The Mechanical Dog..

now that I like.........did you get beyond the 17mm ?

 

[Bouba]

now that I like.........did you get beyond the 17mm ?

It’s a Land Rover...are there other sizes?

 

[Poignard]

Metric size fasteners on a Land Rover?

Damned unpatriotic!

Harrumph!