TiggerToo
Well-known member
What is winter like there, for example in Ushuaia?
Has anyone here ever overwintered there?
Has anyone here ever overwintered there?
Tierra del Fuego
- Thread starter TiggerToo
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Metabarca
Well-known member
Ushuaia in the Yaghan language means something like 'bay sheltered from the west', which is good news as that's where most of the weather comes from. In winter, it gets very cold (snow to sea level, high winds...). There is a jetty for yachts on the west side of the bay towards the old airfield, with yachts two or three deep, but it's not a good place to moor for very long. Most boats that overwinter there are on swing moorings. The large jetty further east is for commercial traffic only. There are no yacht facilities in Ushuaia; the nearest are at Mar del Plata just 300 miles from Buenos Aires. As to whether any moorings are available, I don't know but I can probably find out as I have some friends and contacts there.
Another possibility is Puerto Williams on the Chilean island of Navarino, moored up against the Micalvi (half-sunken German ship that used to supply the lighthouses). Very sheltered but you really need to have one of the (mostly French) liveaboards keep an eye on things. And there's the problem of getting there and away; Punta Arenas by air or Ushuaia by private boat.
There's nowhere else in the area for overwintering: Rio Grande has no port, Porvenir is open to the west and Punta Arenas on the mainland is also very exposed.
Happy to share more details: it's a great place!
Ushuaia moorings (in high summer!)
Ushuaia yacht jetty
Micalvi in Puerto Williams
Another possibility is Puerto Williams on the Chilean island of Navarino, moored up against the Micalvi (half-sunken German ship that used to supply the lighthouses). Very sheltered but you really need to have one of the (mostly French) liveaboards keep an eye on things. And there's the problem of getting there and away; Punta Arenas by air or Ushuaia by private boat.
There's nowhere else in the area for overwintering: Rio Grande has no port, Porvenir is open to the west and Punta Arenas on the mainland is also very exposed.
Happy to share more details: it's a great place!
Ushuaia moorings (in high summer!)
Ushuaia yacht jetty
Micalvi in Puerto Williams
TiggerToo
Well-known member
Thanks MB. I really only wondered what the climate is in winter: you say "snow" does the sea freeze over?
Metabarca
Well-known member
No, the Beagle Channel doesn't freeze over because of the tides, currents and waves, but the 'senos' (fiords) do, sometimes for months, because they see very little sunshine, the water is calm and they often have glaciers calving at their heads just to cool things further. There was a Frenchwoman, Nicole van der Kerchove (whom I met on Navarino a few days before her untimely death), who overwintered in one. I think there's a book or film about it.
oldvarnish
Active member
Everything Metabarca says I would agree with.
Ushuaia is no place to leave a boat, or live on one. P Williams is great and friendly and safe but far less cosmopolitan than Ushuaia. It's also very difficult and expensive to get between the two - you can't nip over to enjoy the better shopping in Ushuaia. You can always take your own boat, but that might involve a few hours of paperwork either end.
I have only been there in their summer, but some report excellent sailing in the winter under high pressure which can occur then. High pressure in the summer is very rare and short-lived.
Ushuaia is no place to leave a boat, or live on one. P Williams is great and friendly and safe but far less cosmopolitan than Ushuaia. It's also very difficult and expensive to get between the two - you can't nip over to enjoy the better shopping in Ushuaia. You can always take your own boat, but that might involve a few hours of paperwork either end.
I have only been there in their summer, but some report excellent sailing in the winter under high pressure which can occur then. High pressure in the summer is very rare and short-lived.
Mrnotming
New member
Coincidentally,
currently reading (Kindle) "This thing of Darkness" by Harry Thompson, for a second time, it is such a good read.
About Admiral Fitzroy, and Darwin and the misgivings Fitzroy harbours about evolution.
It is somewhat fictional in content, but well worth a read.Real life in Patagonia!
currently reading (Kindle) "This thing of Darkness" by Harry Thompson, for a second time, it is such a good read.
About Admiral Fitzroy, and Darwin and the misgivings Fitzroy harbours about evolution.
It is somewhat fictional in content, but well worth a read.Real life in Patagonia!
Poignard
Well-known member
Here's another 'good read' about that part of the world:
'Uttermost Part of the Earth' by Lucas Bridges
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Uttermost-Part-Earth-Lucas-Bridges/dp/1585679569
'Uttermost Part of the Earth' by Lucas Bridges
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Uttermost-Part-Earth-Lucas-Bridges/dp/1585679569
tcm
...
Wow what fabulous info there is to be found hereabouts!
Metabarca
Well-known member
Lucas Bridges' book is certainly fascinating. They were the first white family to settle here, and one of the few sympathetic to the natives. Lucas spoke the Yaghan language and produced a dictionary; all that is left of their culture, pretty much. I've seen a few mixed-blood Yaghans on Navarino, but they're a sad bunch now, with no place in modern society. The descendants of Bridges on the other hand still have the original house at Harberton (named after the Devon village), some 30 miles east of Ushuaia. There's a small natural history museum there now, and they serve teas (!). Most of the farming is now at their other estancia at Villamonte, further north. Another great book about the area is by Tschifelly who rode from Peru to the deep south.
AntarcticPilot
Well-known member
There are some facilities, including pontoons and moorings at Port Stanley in the Falklands. There is the Carnache which has pontoons at the east end of Stanley Harbour, conventional harbour facilities along Stanley water front and a tiny marina like facility at the west end of the Stanley Waterfront. Stanley harbour is well sheltered. Of course, going there may cause you some problems on re-entering Argentinian waters!
Metabarca
Well-known member
Actually not, because as far as they're concerned, you're not leaving the country, so no need to check out and in! But best not to make a point of where you're going...
oldvarnish
Active member
When you check out of an Argentine port, you must state your next destination. If you wish to go to the Falklands, you can apply for a 'permiso' which is usually granted but can take 10 days to process. They will not consider you have left Argentina, therefore your time in the Falklands is counted against the 90 days (or whatever) entry period you were given when you entered the country.
If you say that you do not intend to sail to the Falklands, you will be required to sign a form to that effect. If you then do so, the fine is (from memory) about 15,000 USD. Going to the Falklands in an emergency does not count - you'll still get fined.
You may have sailed straight to the Falklands from Europe, and then wish to sail directly to Chile. The should present no problem in theory; however there are reports of Argentine patrol vessel stopping yachts in international waters and if they have discovered they have been to the Falklands, imposing the fine.
The only way to survive down there is to play it dead straight, and to their rules.
Having said that, I found all the authorities pleasant to deal with and although slow and tedious, never obstructive.
AntarcticPilot
Well-known member
Thanks for the explanation - I only know the situation from the UK/Falklands angle, and know that Argentina routinely makes life difficult for people who aren't willing to toe the Argentinian line!
Might be worth mentioning that the UK offered (prior to 1982!) to submit the issue of sovereignty to international arbitration - but Argentina refused.
