Thru hull fitting

burgundyben said:
I reckon the ball valve is some kind of stainless and less noble than the skin fitting so its turned to a ball of rust.
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That’s possible...but I looked through the thru hull fitting and the ball looked ok except for surface rust and I tapped it with a big screwdriver and it seemed solid
 
Bouba said:
This is an underwater fitting so it’s constantly exposed to seawater...I gave it quite a bit of wellie today trying to work the ball valve...so it feels strong..but if I can find the composite Trudesign parts tomorrow then I will install them
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Only the fittings are - not the body of the valve. Common misunderstanding. The ball is usually nickel plated brass running in a teflon seat within the body so seawater does not touch the body. As i said the problem is the fittings either end which may be brass, DZR or bronze - difficult to tell visually but your skin fitting shows no external sign of dezincification, but difficult to tell with the hose tail without taking the hose off.

I bet you a virtual pint that if you do replace everything - skin fitting, lock nut, valve and hosetail - you will find the existing in near perfect condition.

There is a lot of hype and scaremongering about through hulls and valves that is not supported by evidence - yes they can dezincify, particularly the hose tail if brass but there are literally hundreds of thousands installed in boats and there is no sign of an epidemic of failures let alone sinkings.
 
Portofino said:
Have you got a replacement regime ? What are the other TTH fittings and valves like on your Beny ?
How often were they all excised when in use ?
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I’ve always wanted to replace the fittings with composite ones...and replace the zincs with aluminum...just another job on the never ending list...there are only three or four other seacocks...and they do work
 
Tranona said:
Only the fittings are - not the body of the valve. Common misunderstanding. The ball is usually nickel plated brass running in a teflon seat within the body so seawater does not touch the body. As i said the problem is the fittings either end which may be brass, DZR or bronze - difficult to tell visually but your skin fitting shows no external sign of dezincification, but difficult to tell with the hose tail without taking the hose off.

I bet you a virtual pint that if you do replace everything - skin fitting, lock nut, valve and hosetail - you will find the existing in near perfect condition.

There is a lot of hype and scaremongering about through hulls and valves that is not supported by evidence - yes they can dezincify, particularly the hose tail if brass but there are literally hundreds of thousands installed in boats and there is no sign of an epidemic of failures let alone sinkings.
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I have also come to the conclusion that the valve is good...but the boat is out the water an if the parts are available I might as well do it
 
Why hope? If you looked at it you'd know and could order a replacement. If enough rusticle flakes have been created to block the outlet of the water separator then it's probably quite frilly.
 
Seal the area with epoxy, if dry. and use Sikaflex 291i or Puraflex 40 stuffed in and around the fitting and slide into the hole. if need to apply more sealant under the outer flange and inner washer. tighten down by hand so not fully tight, so as to leave a gasket of around2mm of sealant. let set then come back to fully tighten up. this will leave a good gasket of dry sealant to bed down on. inner washer will be same.

as for fitting size whc ever size you want to use unless there is an inner treaded pipe your connecting to.
 
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