burgundyben
Well-Known Member
Yes, or SLS one and use it as a casting pattern.
You can buy the flanges off the shelf, how hard can it be to weld them into an adapter?
The Ford to Cummins Conversion Thread
- Thread starter MYStargazer
- Start date
Yes, or SLS one and use it as a casting pattern.
You can buy the flanges off the shelf, how hard can it be to weld them into an adapter?
MYStargazer
Well-Known Member
Selective Laser Sintering? Isn't that the same as 3D printing? Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to print or SLS than cast? I have no idea what the answer is, by the way, I just know turbos get very hot!
Can you? Where from? What are they made from? This would seem less risky than welding onto the manifold...
MYStargazer
Well-Known Member
Hundreds of turbo flanges on ebay, and some adapters, e.g...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T3-TO-T4-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c57459422
My turbo is a Holset HX35. This has a "T3" flange, apparently, and flanges are standard sizes.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T3-TO-T4-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c57459422
My turbo is a Holset HX35. This has a "T3" flange, apparently, and flanges are standard sizes.
Latestarter1
Well-Known Member
Watch out! I feel a grumpy moment coming on.....
CM 600 was a Polar design not Bowman.
I fell out with Polar many years ago over the design of their charge air coolers. Ashley who owned Polar was given a design brief by Lancing Marine and others which was hopeless. I visited Polar at their request and asked for my view on the manifold they had created, as usual I was forthright, 80% there but a little boss eyed, focus on naturally aspirated engines because there were loads in the market from early Leyland Roadrunners and to fit a turbocharger turbine housing to mounted upside down! Finally the manifold has a foul condition with Cummins marine flywheel housing. Ashley got in a state claiming that all I did was tear his designs to pieces and he did not want to spend more money re-designing the whole thing, we just could not hit it off!
Bowman purchased the manifold when Polar was wound up. I have requested changes to the pattern at my dime, however Lancing sell decent numbers so loads of nasty lash ups out there. About four years ago there was a poster on this forum who was complaining about his engine making oil sheen on the water. I was sent pictures of his set up with turbine housing upside down as advised by people who should know better. AT ANY INSTALLATION ANGLE OF MORE THAN 5 DEGREES turbo drain line is horizontal, lube oil backs up in turbocharger bearing housing as turbocharger starts passing oil. Forget under way at a static 14 degrees the drain line is up hill!
OK taking a new manifold and modifying it to my pattern is a a pain and an added expense however there is no other way if you want marinisation to work correctly, my experience comes for nothing all I can say is either share it or ship out.......................
I have no issue if somebody wants to fit a flange adapter to gain turbo installation height, but do not forget that it will require insulation, heat blanket, Zircotec either way cost likely to be awash with modification of manifold and extra joint to seal.
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burgundyben
Well-Known Member
Thanks chum, I know you are right on the money, its just that welding on to castings in general is something I don't like and its heading down a 1 way street with a high ££ item. I've lived with rusty manky turbo's and adpaters in PT dropping little flakes of rust into the bilge for 11 years...my favoured solution is zircotech and in my book worth the money.
Episode
New Member
Keep up your posting, I have been following with great interest. I have also decided to bit the bullet and re-power my 32. Going down a slightly diferent route and fitting Volvo D4 180s. Hope to have work started in next month.
I still don't understand how you get those lumps under your wheelhouse floor, even though I have now seen the pictures! Everything looks very similar (different seating arrangement though) but there is no way I could fit either of your old or new engines without major changes to foor (and wheelhouse headroom), even if they were installed level.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Good luck
I still don't understand how you get those lumps under your wheelhouse floor, even though I have now seen the pictures! Everything looks very similar (different seating arrangement though) but there is no way I could fit either of your old or new engines without major changes to foor (and wheelhouse headroom), even if they were installed level.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Good luck
MYStargazer
Well-Known Member
Another Weymouth 32 re-engining - fantastic! Update with loads of pictures to follow on Monday...
Would be fascinating to compare interiors - do you have any photos of yours?
Episode
New Member
Just some that were taken before I got her. I have tidied it up a bit since (new carpets, varnish work etc).
aquapower
Well-Known Member
I carried out a repower about 6 years ago, removed HT6354s and replaced with D4-225s, every one kept saying that hey won't fit under the floors but before I committed I got line drawings for both engines and compared, the D4 was actually lower as with a down angle gearbox and being a shorter engine it fitted with plenty of room to spare.
Episode
New Member
How did they compare on the water? Was it a good choice?
aquapower
Well-Known Member
Owner is pleased and still has boat, they are quieter, smoother, no smoke, engine bay is always clean and a higher cruising speed is available.
There's lots to do on a conversion like this, water intakes had to be changed to 2inch, 3/8 fuel lines were fitted, larger exhausts were fitted and with water locks, shafts were changed for duplex, new engine beds were made as the shaft angle was about 15 degrees for the Perkins and with 8 degree gearboxes it was easier to make new beds than alter the existing ones, electrics were all 24v so I fitted an additional alternator to both engines (a kit from Volvo).
Latestarter1
Well-Known Member
Hey the engine being used on this thread comes with 24 volt up-fit as standard.
aquapower
Well-Known Member
That would have been useful but wasn't available at the time.
MYStargazer
Well-Known Member
I post this appeal…
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?368706-Anyone-know-this-bloke
…to no avail, but now he's turned up on the forum - welcome Nigel!
His repower thread is here http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?371173-Weymouth-32-re-power-D4-for-Perkins-HT6-354
Easily, and with plenty of room to spare all around. Height (only) was tight, but the floor may have been raised by an inch or so (just by adding battens) to accommodate the charge air coolers and air intake crossover. I’m wondering why your floors are so low. Or, maybe, your engine beds and p-brackets are more steeply angled. The original Halmatic boat plans I have feature your Perkins and a steeper shaft angle. Maybe playing with this angle (new or reinstalled p-brackets and reworked engine beds) would offer some cheaper alternatives to Volvos, new gearboxes and Aqua/Python drives…?
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?368706-Anyone-know-this-bloke
…to no avail, but now he's turned up on the forum - welcome Nigel!
His repower thread is here http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?371173-Weymouth-32-re-power-D4-for-Perkins-HT6-354
Easily, and with plenty of room to spare all around. Height (only) was tight, but the floor may have been raised by an inch or so (just by adding battens) to accommodate the charge air coolers and air intake crossover. I’m wondering why your floors are so low. Or, maybe, your engine beds and p-brackets are more steeply angled. The original Halmatic boat plans I have feature your Perkins and a steeper shaft angle. Maybe playing with this angle (new or reinstalled p-brackets and reworked engine beds) would offer some cheaper alternatives to Volvos, new gearboxes and Aqua/Python drives…?
MYStargazer
Well-Known Member
Making sure the engines can clear the cabin roof
Okay, just the last part of my original engines-out checklist still to do before the big lift out…
So far, I’ve:
1. Removed the gearboxes
2. Undone the engine mounts
3. Cleared away all attached wires, pipes and controls
4. Made sure the engines can clear the cabin floor
Now to make sure that the engines can clear the cabin roof…
The cabin roof hole was already there. It took me a while to realise, but there was a distinct ridge on the cabin roof, under the awful – and unfortunately diamond-hard – blue deck paint.
I thought this had been made with a jigsaw, cutting into the foam sandwich roof. Wrong! Having removed the headlining...
...and having chipped-off some of the resin underneath the join, I had a poke and found that the roof had been cut (or maybe even moulded) at an angle, and the mating surfaces had been flow-coated over (or gelcoated) to form a plug.
This meant that all I had to do was chisel off the remaining resin underneath…
And chip-off the chopped-strand matting on the outside…
Then run a palette knife through the mastic...
Having done this, the panel could be lifted up from inside the cabin – although removal was going to need an extra pair of hands. The palette knife was destroyed in the process as I hammered it sideways through the old mastic. I may replace with cheap silicone bathroom sealant, then run just a bead of UV-resistant white Sikaflex around the top, to make any future removals easier.
Slowly but surely, I was able to lift out roof section. A bit heavier than expected – it’ll be a two-man job to lift it out of the way ready of the lift.
I wonder how easy it would be to place the plug with a piece of acrylic – having the roof plug off makes the saloon wonderfully light and airy…
Okay, just the last part of my original engines-out checklist still to do before the big lift out…
So far, I’ve:
1. Removed the gearboxes
2. Undone the engine mounts
3. Cleared away all attached wires, pipes and controls
4. Made sure the engines can clear the cabin floor
Now to make sure that the engines can clear the cabin roof…
The cabin roof hole was already there. It took me a while to realise, but there was a distinct ridge on the cabin roof, under the awful – and unfortunately diamond-hard – blue deck paint.
I thought this had been made with a jigsaw, cutting into the foam sandwich roof. Wrong! Having removed the headlining...
...and having chipped-off some of the resin underneath the join, I had a poke and found that the roof had been cut (or maybe even moulded) at an angle, and the mating surfaces had been flow-coated over (or gelcoated) to form a plug.
This meant that all I had to do was chisel off the remaining resin underneath…
And chip-off the chopped-strand matting on the outside…
Then run a palette knife through the mastic...
Having done this, the panel could be lifted up from inside the cabin – although removal was going to need an extra pair of hands. The palette knife was destroyed in the process as I hammered it sideways through the old mastic. I may replace with cheap silicone bathroom sealant, then run just a bead of UV-resistant white Sikaflex around the top, to make any future removals easier.
Slowly but surely, I was able to lift out roof section. A bit heavier than expected – it’ll be a two-man job to lift it out of the way ready of the lift.
I wonder how easy it would be to place the plug with a piece of acrylic – having the roof plug off makes the saloon wonderfully light and airy…
rustybarge
Well-Known Member
MYStargazer
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Yes - I was surprised. I wonder how tough and bendy it is at that thickness? And how scratch-proof?
Crucially, how would I join and seal the acrylic sheet to the curved roof - in a secure and looks-like-it-was-like-that-originally way?
rustybarge
Well-Known Member
My solution would be to cover the whole roof (or nearly all) in one big sheet of acrylic as it's so cheap. If you try to install a diy sunroof panel in a rebate in the roof, it's guaranteed to leak...!
....and you'll get a beautiful shiney finish as well.
penfold
Well-Known Member
Pehaps arbomast non-setting would be a better bet than silicone if using a bead of sikaflex on the outside. For a clear span that size 10-12mm acrylic would be better and would take a person's weight. I think RB may be right about the rebate being a long term source of leaks; building up a plinth with GRP would be best, or if you've got deep pockets a frame from one of the marine glaziers. It will get warm with that glazing, so you'll then need a blind! 
MYStargazer
Well-Known Member
Would love to. Problem is, the edge of the cabin roof is curved - so it'd have to end somewhere other than the edge...
