The Ford to Cummins Conversion Thread

In my GB42 I ran 12" plastic coated open cable tray round the engine room ceiling front & sides. Then tyraped bundles side by side. Good for keeping different stuff apart.

Has worked well for the last 25 years. Tray is a bit overloaded now but cables are visible & accessible which I like.

No matter how big your trunking is within a few years it will be stuffed full & be a pain to manage.

Just my view of course...
 
In my GB42 I ran 12" plastic coated open cable tray round the engine room ceiling front & sides. Then tyraped bundles side by side. Good for keeping different stuff apart.

Has worked well for the last 25 years. Tray is a bit overloaded now but cables are visible & accessible which I like.

No matter how big your trunking is within a few years it will be stuffed full & be a pain to manage.

Just my view of course...

+1

This makes good sense.....taking into consideration 'Murphy's law'. :p
 
Have a look for Sumitomo connectors.the hw series is an alternative, as used by the big jap motor companies. Suitable for smaller wiring sizes, with multiway plugs. They do two connectors terminal sizes, one for 0.3 to 1.25 mm sq, another for larger....
They just feel more robust to me, but each to there own of course.

I'm writing from a point of relative ignorance, but what would be the point of these types of connectors? Surely it's better to have a single, uninterrupted wire from point A to point B, supported to keep it high and tidy, and protected against failure from vibrating against hard points?
 
I'm writing from a point of relative ignorance, but what would be the point of these types of connectors? Surely it's better to have a single, uninterrupted wire from point A to point B, supported to keep it high and tidy, and protected against failure from vibrating against hard points?

Exactly.....how do you test a 15 way connector to find which terminal is loose or corroded?

2 way connectors are about the max. Size you'd want.
 
Nice work there, just had the chance to go through the whole thread, well done and take it easy one step at a time!
Took me over a manmonths worth of work to figure out ALL the cabling, remove around 40kg or redundant cabling (not exagerating!) and sorting out the cables in the existing conduits. Good thing is that once done, you do know what does what in your boat which is v. handy imho

Thanks very much!

I’ve also just thrown out a large bin-bag full of old cabling…

In hindside, it makes sense to attack cables on a per tie-wrap basis
I'll explain: DONT cut all tie wraps, letting all the cabling loose, you'll get lost! Go one at a time (it's more tedious I know, but helps you figure out what's going on) Trace them all the way to engine and helm/cabins whereever, figure out what they do (In my case, most DID..) and rip them out if not needed (95% of the case in mine)

I just went for it and uncut all the cable ties en masse!

CableTiesUncut.jpg


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It seemed to be the only way to see where they actually went. This seemed to be necessary as they were so bunched up at the exit of the engine compartment (up to the saloon dashboard).
 
I'm thinking of fitting these along the underside of the engine compartment longitudinals. Two strips either side of each engine. A bit 'pimpy', yes, but it'd be great to have the bright white engines flooded with light...

Lights.jpg
 
Exactly.....how do you test a 15 way connector to find which terminal is loose or corroded?

2 way connectors are about the max. Size you'd want.

I've not done much planning for the wiring yet (that's for another thread entirely), but one of the principles will be to have all wires leading from the powered items to one box containing clearly labelled bus bars, so much of it can be checked from that single area.
 
I'm thinking of fitting these along the underside of the engine compartment longitudinals. Two strips either side of each engine. A bit 'pimpy', yes, but it'd be great to have the bright white engines flooded with light...
I've got a couple of Labcraft LED strip lights in the engine bay and find them very effective.
 
Making sure the engines can clear the cabin floor...

Now for the most involved stage of the engine removal. While the port engine was beneath some panels in the cabin floor, the starboard engine was beneath some well-made seating.

Here’s the port-side engine with easy access, with one of a number of floor panels removed. The short transverse beams just lift up and out.

CabinFloorPortEngine.jpg


Here’s the starboard-side seating making a great snoozing area on a trip through the French canals.

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The seating had to be dismantled. I’ve not been too careful with this, as I want to change the configuration sufficiently for the existing joinery to be good for recycling only. I want the whole of the floor to be covered with unencumbered panels, with new seating supported by every available surface other than the floor itself. This will also provide easier-access storage, as I’ll be able to place plastic storage boxes on the floor with battens to prevent them sliding around. With the old arrangement, the sofa cushions and some plywood panels had to be removed to allow access to storage within the seating, and this proved very inconvenient.

Sofa2.jpg


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Hence (?) your cunning modification of Bowman’s CM600 water-cooled manifold-cum-header tank. I can keep the same oil pick-up, then, and in fact keep the bottom half of the engine as-is?

ManifoldMod1.jpg


ManifoldMod2.jpg

Makes me wonder why Bowman didn't incorporate this into the design? Relatively minor pattern change.

I'm not keen on the idea of this mod, I understand the reason, but I don't like the idea of welding a chunk onto a casting. I'm thinking of 3D modelling an adapter bracket like the Perkins has, 3D print or SLS a proto to check fit, then release to a foundry.

Comments?

BTW - I'm doing this too now with a plan to fit them at Easter '14.
 
Makes me wonder why Bowman didn't incorporate this into the design? Relatively minor pattern change.

Paul will give you the full low-down, but I understand it's to do with turbocharger lubricating oil drainage when the engine's installed at an angle.

It's about the same (?) as the angle used in the Cummins 'official' manifold:

CumminsExhaustManifold1.jpg


CumminsExhaustManifold2.png


CumminsExhaustManifold3.png


I'm not keen on the idea of this mod, I understand the reason, but I don't like the idea of welding a chunk onto a casting. I'm thinking of 3D modelling an adapter bracket like the Perkins has, 3D print or SLS a proto to check fit, then release to a foundry.

Yes, I thought about this. I have a PDF of the plans for the CM600 manifold-cum-header-tank. 3D printing looks very expensive, but it's coming down all the time and would be well worth investigating again. Or you could print a plastic (wax?) one for use in a foundry. I understand Bowman had problems with porosity with one batch of CM600, so if they can have problems I suppose anyone can...?
 
The idea of superseals is to prevent faults occurring in the first place!

Iveco, Cummins, Merc, MAN, Scania, Optare, Dennis use precisely the fitting types and trunking mentioned for engine harnesses and chassis looms. Gone are the days of wrapping tape round a bundle of wires in heavy duty applications.

Or does the forum know something they don't?

Still not getting into an argument, everyone has the right an opinion and I stand by mine. Properly specified, supported and protected wiring systems will not fail without extreme provocation.


Seen quite a few of the superseal connectors fail due to corrosion mounted to truck chassis, in the end there was a recall to open and grease all of the superseal connectors.
I have to admit the main cuplrits were just in front of a wheel arch so would have seen serious amounts of water, but there were also others well out of the way that were also part of the recall.



Lynall
 
Just about see it here.

Thanks, Ben.

Maybe this manifold-turbo angled adapter could be an ideal candidate for a smallish aluminium (?) printed part...?

On this scale, it could be cheaper than fabricating and welding - and, of course, far less risky. Should be doable using just the plans for the Bowman CM600. You could have a batch made up.

The turbo could be lifted or lowered, too, and the whole solution could be very elegant.

Anyone got any rough ideas on aluminium printing costs?
 
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