The Ford to Cummins Conversion Thread

vas said:
Yes, but if you DON'T have a genny, you have one engine charging domestics, and inevitably you'll end up using that more when on anchor to charge batteries ;)

I guess you could simply use Ts exiting the tanks and just have a pipe connecting the two tanks on exit plus a isolationg valve to keep it separate and only open up if for some reason you feel/know there is a substantial difference in levels or if for some reason you want to use only one tank to run both engines (other tank leaking, listing due to other issues, etc)

cheers

V.
Click to expand...

I have to say, I didn't actually know what charged what with the old (now completely gone) set up, so that hadn't even occurred to me!

That makes perfect sense though.
 
Fitzroy said:
I have to say, I didn't actually know what charged what with the old (now completely gone) set up, so that hadn't even occurred to me!

That makes perfect sense though.
Click to expand...

yep, 2X Tees on exit of each tank, 2X isolation valves after the tee going towards the engine and a third isolation valve on the pipe connecting both tanks means that you can decide what goes where with minimal hassle.

V.
 
Fitzroy said:
Off the top of my head I'm guessing there'll be around 8-10 ft of fuel line max. Should this be a concern?
Click to expand...

Someone with more knowledge than me should really answer that ... I'd be a bit concerned about the combination of lift and length required ... and what the fuel pump is designed for ...

Basically what is wrong with the existing installation?? KIS to keep "as-is" and you have another 100L capacity, with weight at the right place (centre and low down).
 
F,

you plan to use copper pipes to go from tanks to filter/pump?
someone must spec carefully the copper size (according to # of elbows et al) and you need to have a flex bit at the end towards the engine right?

I spend half this morning checking how I'm going to rebuilt the existing setup in MiToS using new ss components and was shocked at the price of a wire reinforced 1.5m flex pipe (around 1/2inch) that connects the distribution tank (4-5lt) to the separ filters. With ss 1/2 endings it was around 60euro!
Don't forget that the pump will have to suck diesel through a 3+m pipe (each elbow counts for x extra length)

IMHO if you skip the day tank, an engineer must size all the bits and then you see if you're gaining something and what exactly.

cheers

V.
 
vas said:
you plan to use copper pipes to go from tanks to filter/pump?
someone must spec carefully the copper size (according to # of elbows et al) and you need to have a flex bit at the end towards the engine right?

I spend half this morning checking how I'm going to rebuilt the existing setup in MiToS using new ss components and was shocked at the price of a wire reinforced 1.5m flex pipe (around 1/2inch) that connects the distribution tank (4-5lt) to the separ filters. With ss 1/2 endings it was around 60euro!
Don't forget that the pump will have to suck diesel through a 3+m pipe (each elbow counts for x extra length)

IMHO if you skip the day tank, an engineer must size all the bits and then you see if you're gaining something and what exactly.
Click to expand...

I'll probably stick with copper pipes like she has now, unless I can find a way of easily joining stainless pipes (brazing? olives?) - I want the engine compartment to be quite blingy!

There will be some amoured pipes between the engines and the end of the straight element of the pipe, which is how it is now. I will try to use stainless armoured pipes as the old pipes have rusted (it may have been stainless to begin with has still started to break down).
 
I'd prefer cunifer over copper, but s/s would be very Gucci. Stainless can be joined using compression fittings and is a practical DIY proposition, although bending the larger sizes requires the strength of hercules! Whichever material used, make sure it's well supported with clamps and brackets.
 
Fitzroy said:
I'll probably stick with copper pipes like she has now, unless I can find a way of easily joining stainless pipes (brazing? olives?) - I want the engine compartment to be quite blingy!

There will be some amoured pipes between the engines and the end of the straight element of the pipe, which is how it is now. I will try to use stainless armoured pipes as the old pipes have rusted (it may have been stainless to begin with has still started to break down).
Click to expand...

Whole heap of wonky stuff here, I must send you installation guidelines..........

However not in any particular order.

Do not use domestic thin wall copper tubing for fuel supply, it is totally unsuitable. Drawn thick wall copper tube with Wade fittings is correct but expensive. Rubber fuel hose to correct spec is way to go spec used to be SAE J30R6 or was it J1942 off the top of my head with BS equivalent and use Wade couplings. 13mm flow and 10mm return will suffice at your power levels. Clip hose at regular intervals. Do not bother with stainless braided tube, expensive luxury.

Diaphragm Delco patten lift pump will give static lift up to absolute maximum of 5ft, however less is always better. Pump output must be 7 psi measured at last chance filter.

Max return line pressure, particularly with rotary pump must NOT exceed 20 inches of Hg.

I see from your schematic return line is not immersed, incorrect as this will lead to air migration down the return line and less than instant starting when vessel not used for some time. With Lucas CAV immersed return was a nice to have, with Bosch you will do IT! Written in in blood in Bosch guidelines but most older vessels do not comply.

Stick with your day tank.

Unless you already have Racors talk to me re filters.

PS see the danger of relying on wine addled old brain............Max return line pressure for rotary pump is half the in-line figure I quoted i,e 10 inches of Hg.

Installation guidelines sent
 
Last edited:
Latestarter1 said:
Whole heap of wonky stuff here
Click to expand...

I am completely indebted to you, as ever, Paul, and thanks very much for the Installation Guidelines - the Cummins literature is just great for newbies.

When the Installation Guidelines state that fuel lift to the bottom of the tank must not exceed 5', they are talking about vertical lift aren't they? My hoses will exceed this distance, but the engines and fuel tanks are on the same level. There will be little if any lift. I really am keen to get of that smelly, leaky day tank!!...

No, I don't have Racors, just the old CAVs:

OldPrimaryFuelFilter.jpg



 
burgundyben said:
Cad work for the Borg Warner/Cummins adapter plate is ready, just needs the dims for the wings and the slot positions.
Click to expand...

Magic - thanks!

I'll take some measurements and work out the dimensions. Not easy to do without the Cummins engines in, and without the shafts in, but I have plenty of photos of the old engines, plus some diagrams of both the Fords and Cummins which can be overlaid.
 
I don't have access to an A0 printer, but if we could get a 1:1 print done somewhere like staples and paste it onto a bit of ply you could jigsaw it out and do a mock up to check.

BTW, I'm no longer doing the Cummins repower, I was just starting to buy the stuff when out of the blue I got offered a very nice pair of Perkins Sabre M265TI's at the right price.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

ianc1200
Sureseal shaft seal.
2
Replies
20
Views
523
ianc1200
ianc1200
Skipper Felice
Optimisation of the battery charger infrastructure
Replies
1
Views
153
PaulRainbow
PaulRainbow
D
Stern drive KAD32p - water dripping, any tips?
Replies
4
Views
244
James jameson
J
I
Antares 10.80 Repower D3 220’s
2 3
Replies
42
Views
1K
Canopy Locked
Canopy Locked
O
“The Dog that Didn’t Bark:” Yanmar. 4L HASTE.
Replies
2
Views
272
oldgit
O

Share this page

Top